Moonshine How Much Head To Throw Out?

Are you planning on doing stripping runs or only spirit runs? Stripping Run A stripping run is the best way to remove water from within the wash. Simply fill the still with wash and run the still hot and fast. Collect everything into one large collection container.

Once there are multiple stripping runs saved, they can be added to a still and run as a spirit run. Think of the stripping run as nothing more than an alcohol concentration step: you can get a larger, more refined spirit if you do a stripping run. Stripping is usually achieved via the use of a pot still, but can be done with a de-tuned reflux still.

Running a pot still as quickly as possible will extract as much alcohol from your wash as possible. The distillate collected is called low wines. The low wines of several stripping runs are then collected and a spirit run is done. Spirit Run Spirit runs are used to distill low wines produced from a stripping run or from a single run in a pot still.

A spirit run is used to separate the heads, hearts and tails for the final spirit, called the spirit run. A spirit run takes a lot more time than a stripping run. Foreshots Foreshots are the first vapors to boil off during distillation. They should not be ingested as they contain methanol and other volatile alcohols.

Always discard the foreshots — they make up around 5% or less of the product collected during a run. Throw out the first 30 ml on a 1 gallon run, the first 150 ml on a 5 gallon run, or the first 300 ml on a 10 gallon run. Heads Heads come off of the still directly after the foreshots.

1. Simply put, they taste and smell bad.
2. Heads smell like paint thinner or solvent.
3. They are not worth drinking and are said to be the main culprit in hangovers.
4. Hearts Hearts come off the still after the heads.
5. The hearts are the sweet spot during the run: This is the good stuff.
6. The easiest way to tell when you’ve reached the hearts is simple: The harshness of the heads is replaced with a mellow, sweet-tasting flavor.

Once that harshness of the heads fades away, you know you are in the hearts. The heart cut is very important and this is where the skill of the distiller comes into play, because they must recognize the end of the heads, and the beginning of the tails.

Tails Tails come off the still following the hearts. The tails start once all of the lower boiling point alcohols have evaporated. The tails contain a lot of fusel oil and other alcohols that are not desirable in a finished product. The tails are mostly water, proteins, and carbohydrates and do not taste very good.

The tails start once the rich full flavors from the hearts taper off and start tasting thin. The tails make up between 20-30% of the run.

How much foreshots do you discard?

How to Take Cuts During Distillation Learning how to take cuts during distillation may seem like a daunting process to begin with but by following some basic steps and getting some practice, you’ll be a pro in no time! Taking cuts refers to the process where spirit is collected in small portions of similar sizes during distillation as opposed to allowing the distillate to collect in just one large vessel.

This process gives you more control over the flavours and aromas that make it into your final product, allowing you to create something truly unique and to your taste. During fermentation, many compounds are produced along with alcohol such as acetaldehyde, esters, and ethyl acetate. By taking cuts, we can minimise how many of these by-products make it into our final spirit.

Some of these by-products appear earlier on in the distillation, and others come out later or towards the end of the distillation – this depends entirely on the compound itself. Not all these by-products are bad. Some do not taste wonderful on their own, however, it can be beneficial to introduce them in small amounts to contribute different attributes to your final spirit.

The foreshots are the first part of the distillate (usually 50-200 mL depending on what is being distilled) which are discarded as these can contain harmful compounds and off-flavours. The heads are the distillate collected immediately after the first 50-200 mL of discarded foreshots. They can contain some undesirable, but not harmful, compounds and off-flavours. Some of these are blended into your final spirit, however, most will be discarded or retained in a separate container for redistilling in future batches. The hearts are the middle part of a run and are the cleanest and most flavoursome part of the distillate. A minimal amount of undesirable compounds come through into the spirit. They make up the bulk of your final spirit. The tails are the final part of the distillation and contain some vegetal off-flavours. These are also typically discarded, however, like the heads they can also be kept in a separate container for redistilling.

The Stripping Run The stripping run is done first and ‘strips’ the wash down to a cleaner, more concentrated low wine. This distillation is usually done hot and fast, meaning temperature control isn’t as important as the aim is to strip the wash quickly. Just be sure to take care not to run it too hot to avoid the loss of vapour from the condenser.

The purpose of a stripping run is to capture as much distillate from the wash as possible, therefore, there is no need to remove the foreshots (50-200mL) as these can be removed during the spirit run. The Spirit Run Once you’ve completed the stripping run, it is then diluted with water to 40% ABV or lower and then distilled again – this is where cuts are taken. During this distillation run, the flow of the still should be kept slower than on the stripping run, and ideally, the voltage going to the boiler should be controlled to ensure a nice gentle boil – the is a great example of a boiler that can double as a brewing system to make Whiskey and Bourbon washes, and then control the voltage during distillation. How to Take Cuts During Distillation

There are a few different methods to work out how to split and collect the different cuts from a spirit run, some people base it on temperature or ABV, while others evenly split the whole run and then taste and smell later. Either way can work but to simplify things, we’re going to talk through splitting the entire run.

To do this, you will need an adequate number of glass jars, preferably 300-500 mL in size, that will be able to collect the entire run – this amount will depend on how many stripping runs have been done, if it is only one, then approx.24 x 400 mL jars should suffice. For best results, number these so you know where exactly the cut was made.

The next step is to fire up your pot still and get ready to start the process. You will need to discard the foreshots as usual. Depending on how many stripping runs you have done this could be anything from 50 to 200 mL. Once the foreshots are discarded, you can start collecting the remaining distillate into the jars.

Ensure you collect the same volume into each jar (250 mL – 300 mL is usually a good figure – you can test and adjust this to suit your still later) and then set the jar aside. Depending on what you wish to do, and what you’re making, you can stop collecting the distillate once the ABV drops to 10% or below, although some stop it even higher.

You may start to notice some more visible by-products forming in the last number of jars – this could be an oily looking substance or off-colours coming through. We then suggest you let the jars air out for 24 hours for the more volatile aroma compounds to dissipate.

What do you do with the heads of moonshine?

Collecting the Heart – Once the distiller makes the first cut, the heads are generally either disposed of or redistilled in able to collect more alcohol from them. After the distiller has decided that the quality of the incoming distillate is good enough to keep for drinking purposes, they will cut to “hearts”.

Hearts are ultimately what become the finished product. They contain the bulk of the ethanol we want along with flavors and aromas that make our spirit unique. All good things must come to an end, however. Eventually the emerging hearts distillate will steadily take on unpleasant aromas and flavors, sometimes even developing some bitterness.

This is when the distiller will make another cut and divert the distillate flow to another container for the remainder of the distillation run. The distillate at this point is called “tails” and it has increasingly lower amounts of alcohol. Additionally, higher amounts of bad aromas due to the growing amount of fusel alcohols come over in the still. Waterford Distillery’s Head Brewer Neil determines when to make the cut / Photo Credit: Waterford Distillery

How much mash is left after distilling?

Home Distiller Other discussions for folks new to the wonderful craft of home distilling. Moderator: Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 8:38 am I ran my first wash of UJSSM through last night. I have a 2.5 gallon pot still and I put in around 2 gallons of wash.

1. I heated it up to 80 C and then ran it at around 90 C for close to 5 hours.
2. I through out the first 100 mL of foreshots.
3. Ept about 1/2 quart of what appeared to be heads / some hearts.
4. Then I had about another 3/4 quart jar of likker that turned out to be more cloudy than anything.
5. I took a couple spoon samples and it started turning to more of a biting / bitter taste so I shut the still down.

I popped the top off my still and I had a bunch of wash leftover. I didn’t measure it. I used used around 1 gallon of the backset to put back in my fermenter for the sour mash. I’m just curious, should I have that much left in my boiler? It didn’t smell like purely water leftover.

I did not take measurements of SG of my mash, wasn’t included in the directions up front for the UJSSM so I don’t have those answers. I’m just curious, on average how much backset is usually left after your run in a pot still? Any advice or comments are appreciated! Thanks, E. Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:22 am T-Pee wrote: If you have ten gallons of wash with a ten percent ABV and you boil all of the ethanol out, you’ll have roughly 90% left.

Easy, right? This might be oversimplified but welcome to my way of thinking. Others will be along to kick my azz if I’m wrong. tp Hmm. Interesting. I feel like I’ve read that over and over and maybe it just didn’t click. I wish I would have measured the SG on my wash beforehand, so that I would know.

1. But that actually makes a lot of sense.
2. I’m pretty sure I put around 2 gallons in the still, so if I’m estimating that it was 10% ABV then I would get,2 Gallons in likker out? That equates to,8 quarts, which is pretty close to what I distilled! Ok that makes a lot of sense now that you explained it simplistically.

So on my next run, when I charge my still should I just a baster and snag a sample to put in my graduated cylinder to test the ABV then I’ll know about how much it should yield before I run it? It all seems to be making sense now! Thanks TP Site Donor Posts: Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:59 pm Location: Vegas by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:44 am Holy crap, it took you 5 hours to run 2 gal of wash! The problem is you are trying to run by temp, this does not work as you can see. Put it this way, I run 6× as much wash in half that time start up to shut down.

Life is a journey you take alone. Make sure you do what you what makes you happy Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:01 am Location: where the buffalo roam, and the deer & antelope play by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:55 am escism wrote:,So on my next run, when I charge my still should I just a baster and snag a sample to put in my graduated cylinder to test the ABV then I’ll know about how much it should yield before I run it?.

Don’t forget to measure the OG too. Remember, %ABV potential is proportional to the CHANGE in specific gravity of the ferment. And remember to use a fermentation (beer & wine) hydrometer and not the Proof & Traille hydrometer. For a quick explanation of how to use the hydrometer, read the link in my signature.

Bouncing back to your original question, with only a 10 quart boiler you will be challenged to make good cuts. I’d suggest collecting in small containers such that you get a dozen or more samples. That’s going to be 100-150ml size or so. The more collection jars, the finer tooth comb you’ll have to decipher where to make the cuts.

And yes, the volume of liquid in the boiler (wash) is reduced by the volume of liquid collected, regardless of the proof of the distillate. ss Site Donor Posts: Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2015 6:35 pm Location: Idaho by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 10:41 am escism wrote: It didn’t smell like purely water leftover. I Any advice or comments are appreciated! Thanks, E. If you ran into the tails (many run down to around 20% ABV) you will notice the smell.

The wash remaining in your pot is not just water. There is still other stuff in there besides water. It is very sour with a ph anywhere from 3 to 4 and is the reason it is added as backset to your next wash/mash. It not only provides flavor, but adjusts the ph of your wash to make the yeasties happy. UJSSM does well with an adjusted ph of around 5.

Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 12:17 pm pfshine wrote: Holy crap, it took you 5 hours to run 2 gal of wash! The problem is you are trying to run by temp, this does not work as you can see. Put it this way, I run 6× as much wash in half that time start up to shut down.

Ok, that’s good to hear! I felt like it took a helluva long time to run. I was trying to run based on temp. I have a still from Whiskey Still company, I love it, but the thermo in the onion top doesn’t seem to perform that well. It’s easily manipulated. Last night I was running it and it started getting over 90 C so I put a fan next to it to help cool down the still and keep it at 90 C.

It seemed to work somewhat, I started getting a better more consistent drip out of my condenser. I was trying to figure out the best way to run it, and I guess next I’ll just go by flavor of the distillate coming out. I’m just trying to keep away from burning or scorching the wash.

Am I wrong in this thinking? Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 12:20 pm GrassHopper wrote: If you ran into the tails (many run down to around 20% ABV) you will notice the smell. The wash remaining in your pot is not just water. There is still other stuff in there besides water.

It is very sour with a ph anywhere from 3 to 4 and is the reason it is added as backset to your next wash/mash. It not only provides flavor, but adjusts the ph of your wash to make the yeasties happy. UJSSM does well with an adjusted ph of around 5. Got it.

That makes sense. It was getting late, so my senses probably weren’t working right on noticing the smell. I picked up more on the taste than anything. The ABV on the last part of the run was still around 50%, my bigger concern was the clarity of the likker that came out. I’m hopefully going to run this mash again on this weekend after it has fermented a few more days.

Then I’ll get more experience with the still and start to learn & more about the entire process. I really appreciate all the coaching though guys this has been awesome thus far! Trainee Posts: Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:45 pm by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 3:11 pm Don’t run it by temps.

1. On a pot still run it by the size of the output stream, it should be about the size of a pencil lead.
2. Adjust the size of the stream by adjusting the amount of heat you are using.
3. If the stream is too big turn it down, too small turn it up.
4. But don’t use a fan to control temp.
5. If you are not living on the “Edge”, then you are taking up too much space!!! Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:54 pm Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 3:34 pm How Much Wash Is Left In Your Still? Just a guestimation.

Starting with 10 gallons and a 10% wash The Reflux still would have just under 9 gallons The pot still would have 7 or 8 Site Donor Posts: Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2014 2:57 pm Location: SE Oklahoma by » Tue Jan 05, 2016 5:06 pm escism wrote: pfshine wrote: Holy crap, it took you 5 hours to run 2 gal of wash! The problem is you are trying to run by temp, this does not work as you can see.

1. Put it this way, I run 6× as much wash in half that time start up to shut down.
2. Ok, that’s good to hear! I felt like it took a helluva long time to run.
3. I was trying to run based on temp.
4. I have a still from Whiskey Still company, I love it, but the thermo in the onion top doesn’t seem to perform that well.

It’s easily manipulated. Last night I was running it and it started getting over 90 C so I put a fan next to it to help cool down the still and keep it at 90 C. It seemed to work somewhat, I started getting a better more consistent drip out of my condenser.

1. I was trying to figure out the best way to run it, and I guess next I’ll just go by flavor of the distillate coming out.
2. I’m just trying to keep away from burning or scorching the wash.
3. Am I wrong in this thinking? I have the very same still.
4. Run it high untill you start to get product, then lower your heat till you get a pencil thick or broken stream.

It takes me about 2-21/2 hours to run a batch of sweet feed. I’ll have about a 3/4 full still when done. Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:49 am Bigbob wrote: I have the very same still. Run it high untill you start to get product, then lower your heat till you get a pencil thick or broken stream.

1. It takes me about 2-21/2 hours to run a batch of sweet feed.
2. I’ll have about a 3/4 full still when done.
3. That’s fantastic feedback Bob! Thank you so much.
4. I’m hoping to run some more this weekend.
5. So I’ll work on that pace and see what happens.
6. I’m running the heat off of my electric stovetop.
7. It’s pretty easy to control the heat for the most part.

So I’ll work with that method and see what happens. Here’s hoping I’ll get some great stuff Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Wed Jan 06, 2016 10:47 am T-Pee wrote: That alone is causing you problems. A stovetop element cycles to maintain heat and results in takeoff that is very inconsistant. Posts: Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:47 am by » Wed Jan 06, 2016 11:17 am escism wrote: That makes sense. I’m not feeling comfortable right now w/ propane, but a hot plate could be more consistent I suppose? Hot plates cycle as well unless they are modified.

• There is a thread around about doing that.
• And like the other guys said, stop watching the thermometer.
• I never put a thermometer in mine, that was some of the best advice i took when starting out.
• As for what’s left in my still per your original question: If I put in a 5 gallon charge, i’ll run it until i collect about a gallon or a little more.

So there is about 4 gallons left in it. If i’m using backset for sour mash, i use about 1 to 1 1/4 gallons in a 5 gallon ferment. Site Donor Posts: Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 6:45 pm Location: Two Dogs Holler, West Virginia by » Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:14 pm T-Pee wrote: If you have ten gallons of wash with a ten percent ABV and you boil all of the ethanol out, you’ll have roughly 90% left. Easy, right? This might be oversimplified but welcome to my way of thinking. Posts: Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:37 pm Location: Mtn states by » Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:57 pm When Bigbob talks sweetfeed and small potstills, smart people listen. You will not find any finer. You should have started with maybe 6% potential. And you may only run at 60-70% ABV so the rest is water.

• I use a thermometer on my pot because it gives me confidence and some inf on when to adjust my heat and when to shut down.
• I know when I get to 195 I am down to 20% or less.
• FYI your thermometer is accurate it is telling you your heat is fluctuating.
• Heat HAS to be consistent! Once you get your stream right you won’t have to adjust until the tails.

Read some more. Good luck. Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Thu Jan 07, 2016 5:28 am robb wrote: When Bigbob talks sweetfeed and small potstills, smart people listen. You will not find any finer. You should have started with maybe 6% potential.

1. And you may only run at 60-70% ABV so the rest is water.
2. I use a thermometer on my pot because it gives me confidence and some inf on when to adjust my heat and when to shut down.
3. I know when I get to 195 I am down to 20% or less.
4. FYI your thermometer is accurate it is telling you your heat is fluctuating.

Heat HAS to be consistent! Once you get your stream right you won’t have to adjust until the tails. Read some more. Good luck. Thanks! I’m going to run tonight. I’m trying to decide if I want to run on propane or not. It scares me a bit to run on propane, but maybe if it’s in the garage and I have a fan pulling out all the fumes it won’t be as dangerous.

I appreciate all the advice everyone! Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Thu Jan 07, 2016 5:28 am These calcs may Help the OP.No azz kicking required Scroll down to: Distillate To Water Calculator ” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;” rel=”nofollow This is awesome! I sat and played with it for awhile and it makes a lot of sense.

Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:01 am Location: where the buffalo roam, and the deer & antelope play by » Thu Jan 07, 2016 5:45 am escism wrote:,I’m trying to decide if I want to run on propane or not. Sooner or later you’ll want to switch to electric.

1. It’s cleaner, quieter, and even more economical in the long run.
2. Plus, you don’t have to worry about running out of gas midway through a run.
3. Even the old ‘holdouts’ sooner or later see the advantage of electric operation.
4. The biggest concern for electric power is if you have enough available power where you like to distill.

YMMV. ss Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Thu Jan 07, 2016 11:10 am still_stirrin wrote: Sooner or later you’ll want to switch to electric. It’s cleaner, quieter, and even more economical in the long run. Plus, you don’t have to worry about running out of gas midway through a run.

• Even the old ‘holdouts’ sooner or later see the advantage of electric operation.
• The biggest concern for electric power is if you have enough available power where you like to distill. YMMV.
• Ss Can you post a link of an electric operation that would be suitable? Just an oven range or a hot plate, what would you recommend? Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:01 am Location: where the buffalo roam, and the deer & antelope play by » Thu Jan 07, 2016 11:33 am There’s a forum of links if you look.

See the Related Electric Accessories forum. Tons of build threads and hours worth of reading. Make yourself at home. ss Novice Posts: Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:42 pm by » Fri Jan 08, 2016 7:48 am Ran another batch last night and had a much better performance from the still. Posts: Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 6:45 pm Location: Two Dogs Holler, West Virginia by » Fri Jan 08, 2016 7:57 am escism wrote: I want to get like 3 more fermenting buckets so I can still every night That’s the spirit (pun intended) Blah, blah, blah,. Site Donor Posts: Joined: Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:12 am by » Fri Jan 08, 2016 8:06 am If you absolutely have to use a thermometer, forget the numbers on it. Turn it so that the needle points straight up when your drip/stream starts, that’s all you’ll need to know. Then judging buy the stream, you can adjust your temp to keep the flow where you want it. : Home Distiller

Can I run my mash early?

What Happens if I Run my Mash too Early? – If you run your mash too early, you run the risk of getting a lower yield of alcohol as the fermentable sugars are not fully converted into ethanol. You also run the risk of your mash boiling over during the distillation process because of the sugar present in the mash.

How full should I fill my moonshine still?

Home Distiller Other discussions for folks new to the wonderful craft of home distilling. Moderator: Swill Maker Posts: Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:04 pm by » Thu Dec 12, 2013 3:49 pm How full do you fill your still? What is the “real” capacity of a still based on it’s displacement? IE I have a 10 gallon pot.

by » Thu Dec 12, 2013 3:52 pm sounds about rite, gotta leave some headroom for the vapors to collect and for pukeingtoday marks the dawn of a new error.

Swill Maker Posts: Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:04 pm by » Thu Dec 12, 2013 3:57 pm does anyone put a copper or stainless screen right over your main where it meets the pot? at least cut down on the coarse stuff getting through if there is a little puking, plus start reflux (OK, not really, but kinda) Site Donor Posts: Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 2:21 pm Location: Monterrey, Mexico by » Thu Dec 12, 2013 3:59 pm what coarse stuff? I usually put only liquid into the still.as probably most do Angel’s Share Posts: Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:49 pm by » Thu Dec 12, 2013 4:20 pm I wouldn’t think that you should put anything but strained liquid into your boiler until you get more experienced in this hobby, If you ain’t the lead dog in the team, the scenery never changes,

Ga Flatwoods made my avatar and I want to thank him for that, Don’t drink water, fish fornicate in it, Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Jul 15, 2013 3:52 pm by » Thu Dec 12, 2013 6:37 pm I usually guesstimate 2/3 full. Ten gallon I’d probably eyeball around 6.5-7 gallons. I should push this up a little bit.

I was just thinking about that. I do multiple runs, so maybe a *little* puking isn’t that big of a deal as long as it doesn’t happen on the last run. Swill Maker Posts: Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:04 pm by » Mon Dec 16, 2013 11:09 am what about a stainless mesh 3/4 of the way up the tank to prevent any solids from passing into the pipe? or for that matter, a pot scrubber stuffed inside the main tube just above the boiler? retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:07 pm Chroi wrote: what about a stainless mesh 3/4 of the way up the tank to prevent any solids from passing into the pipe? or for that matter, a pot scrubber stuffed inside the main tube just above the boiler? Now you just have something for the puke to clog up.

And something more to clean. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:00 pm Location: deep woods of arkansas by » Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:40 pm I agree with Mr. Piss. no still should be filled more than 3/4 full, also strain your wash, unless you are using a submarine pot, you should not have any solids in the cooker.

I fit my mash barrels with full size muslin buckets, double stitched, I put my corn and other parts of the mash into this. These buckets have triple stitched, wrap under the bottom lift handles made of four layers of muslin so they are strong enough to lift.

• My barrels are fitted with spigots at the bottom, just lift the bucket let drain and then open the spigot to drain off the clear wash into five gal buckets (in my case), these go into the cooker.
• This method keeps my barrels cleaner too.
• If you have “scrubbers” in the cap or pipe and you get a puke, it will clog and that builds pressure, something we don’t ever want to see happen.

If you don’t want to strain your beer before putting it into the cooker, then set up at least one thump keg. I put heads and tails into my thumper, helps get the proof up. Just a Cooper and Whisky Maker. “We like visitors, that’s why we live in a secluded cabin way out in the wilderness” Swill Maker Posts: Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:04 pm by » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:04 pm ive got no problem at all straining my mash.

1. Distiller Posts: Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:03 pm by » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:16 pm For myself, I feel comfortable with 2/3 to 3/4.
2. I’m also careful about running with a pretty clear still charge.
3. Once I ran a 10 gallon rum wash that had only fermented to 1.020.
4. I have a 26 gallon boiler and it puked with only 10 gallons in it.

I’m goin the distance. Swill Maker Posts: Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:04 pm by » Tue Dec 17, 2013 4:26 pm sounds like yet another reason for a thumper. Swill Maker Posts: Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:04 pm by » Tue Dec 17, 2013 9:47 pm bellybuster wrote: thumper= redistill slobber box= puke catcher and a couple other reasons spend some time reading in here and you won’t have to ask a million questions that have been answered a million tmes Oh, so a thumper wouldn’t catch material from a puke? And I didn’t ask a question regarding the difference between a thumper and a slobber box.

1. Sorry to have worn out my welcome here so fast, I obviously committed the cardinal sin of typing too much too fast.
2. HD Distilling Goddess Posts: Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:05 pm Location: The western Valley by » Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:08 pm Chroi wrote: bellybuster wrote: thumper= redistill slobber box= puke catcher and a couple other reasons spend some time reading in here and you won’t have to ask a million questions that have been answered a million tmes Oh, so a thumper wouldn’t catch material from a puke? And I didn’t ask a question regarding the difference between a thumper and a slobber box.

Sorry to have worn out my welcome here so fast, I obviously committed the cardinal sin of typing too much too fast. I think what he is trying to say is a thumper and a puke box are built differently. A thumper has the feed tube that goes to the bottom of the tank and re distills, you would be redistilling puke.

What do you do with the heads of moonshine?

Collecting the Heart – Once the distiller makes the first cut, the heads are generally either disposed of or redistilled in able to collect more alcohol from them. After the distiller has decided that the quality of the incoming distillate is good enough to keep for drinking purposes, they will cut to “hearts”.

Hearts are ultimately what become the finished product. They contain the bulk of the ethanol we want along with flavors and aromas that make our spirit unique. All good things must come to an end, however. Eventually the emerging hearts distillate will steadily take on unpleasant aromas and flavors, sometimes even developing some bitterness.

This is when the distiller will make another cut and divert the distillate flow to another container for the remainder of the distillation run. The distillate at this point is called “tails” and it has increasingly lower amounts of alcohol. Additionally, higher amounts of bad aromas due to the growing amount of fusel alcohols come over in the still. Waterford Distillery’s Head Brewer Neil determines when to make the cut / Photo Credit: Waterford Distillery