How Much Alcohol Will a Still Produce? – Before we get started, a reminder: Distilling alcohol is illegal without a federal fuel alcohol or distilled spirit plant permit as well as relevant state permits. Our distillation equipment is designed for legal uses only and the information in this article is for educational purposes only.
A 1 gallon run will yield 3-6 cups of alcohol A 5 gallon run will yield 1-2 gallons of alcohol A 8 gallon run will yield 1.5-3 gallons of alcohol A 10 gallon run will yield 2-4 gallons of alcohol
For the researchers, science nerds, alchemists, and truth seekers, here’s why:
Contents
- 1 How much does a sugar wash yield?
- 2 How much shine will 10 gallons of mash make?
- 3 How long does 5 gallons of mash take to ferment?
- 4 How much sugar for 25 litre wash?
- 5 Is 200 proof moonshine safe to drink?
- 6 How much yeast do you put in 5 gallons of mash?
- 7 How much moonshine will a 6 gallon still make?
How much moonshine can you get out of 5 gallons of mash?
How Much of Moonshine Will 5 Gallons of Mash Make? – For a 5-gallon mash recipe, the yield will be about 3 quarts on average of 130 proof. Once you proof it down for consumption, the yield will be around 1 to 2 gallons of moonshine depending on how high you want your proof for drinking.
How much does a sugar wash yield?
A Standard Sugar Wash Recipe – 
Sugar wash can be made using different recipes. Sugar wash is one of the most affordable ways to make a wash for fermentation. Here is what you need for a standard sugar wash.
8 kg white or raw sugar 25 l water Yeast
Fermenting these will yield a strong brew of 18-20% alcohol as long as the correct type of yeast is used. All you need to do to start the process is to mix your water, sugar and yeast. For the first 60 minutes it won’t seem like much is happening. In this time, yeast will start to feed off the sugar and grow.
As the sugar grows it converts into ethanol and carbon dioxide. When the nutrients and sugar in your mixture is depleted, the alcohol percentage will rise and the fermentation process will be completed. The fermentation process, when it comes to making moonshine, is the step that requires the longest time.
But then, it is a very easy step because it can happen on its own without any inputs from the moonshiner.
How much shine will 10 gallons of mash make?
1. How much shine can I expect to produce when I run my still? – This is the question on everybody’s mind when they purchase a still. It is all mathematics, and some people give answers based on “funny” math. The truth is dependent upon your mash. The fermentation process, prior to the distillation process, will REALLY determine how much you should expect to yield.
On average, a decent ABV (alcohol by volume) during the fermentation process should be around 10% to 15%. We have heard of people boasting about upwards of 20% ABV, but in reality you are shooting for somewhere between 10% & 15% ABV, and here’s why: alcohol & carbon dioxide are by products of the fermentation process (when yeast eat sugars).
The higher the ABV the yeast has to live in, the more stressed they get, and eventually will die off. At about 18% ABV, for most yeast strands, they become very stressed due to their living conditions. They will give off foul smells and flavors around this ABV.
- The trade off for really high ABV (16% or higher) is, higher alcohol/shine that isn’t worth drinking from a taste perspective.
- We recommend shooting for an ABV of 10% to 15%.
- At this range you get a great tasting, smooth shine.
- While there are always exceptions to the rule, and other minor variables, the easiest method is to multiply whatever size still you want by 10% and then 15%.
You will then have an honest answer on how much shine to expect. So for example: A 10 gallon still filled with your wash that is 10% ABV will yield you about 1 gallon of shine. If your ABV is 15% it will be 1.5 gallons. No matter what still you put it in to extract the alcohol out during the distilling process, you can’t argue with the math.
How long does 5 gallons of mash take to ferment?
Making the Starter Mash – Add 7 pounds of cane sugar, 7 pounds of cracked corn, and 5 gallons of 75 degree water to a 6.5 gallon plastic bucket fermenter. Once the ingredients have been added to the fermenter add the yeast starter and an airlock and let it ferment.
How much alcohol is in 5 gallons of wash?
How Much Alcohol Will a Still Produce? – Before we get started, a reminder: Distilling alcohol is illegal without a federal fuel alcohol or distilled spirit plant permit as well as relevant state permits. Our distillation equipment is designed for legal uses only and the information in this article is for educational purposes only.
A 1 gallon run will yield 3-6 cups of alcohol A 5 gallon run will yield 1-2 gallons of alcohol A 8 gallon run will yield 1.5-3 gallons of alcohol A 10 gallon run will yield 2-4 gallons of alcohol
For the researchers, science nerds, alchemists, and truth seekers, here’s why:
How long can a wash sit before distilling?
Article: Clearing the wash
- Clearing the wash
- When fermentation is complete
- Turbo clear should always be used to clear wash before distillation, there are three reasons for this;
- To remove the yeast – there are many billions of yeast cells (70 billion/ml) by the end of the fermentation – if not removed they will break open during boiling releasing volatiles giving off-flavours and aromas into the distillation process and reducing distillate quality.
- To remove semi-soluble compounds – Turbo clear contains strongly negative and positive charging and will take out unwanted compounds that even filtration will not remove.
- T o remove adsorbents – the majority of turbo yeasts contain absorbent materials such as activated carbons, clays and other compounds which trap unwanted metabolites within pore microstructures.
If turbo clear is not used, these metabolites will be released during boiling. Turbo Clear has been reformulated to give increased performance and works faster than ever. Each turbo pack comes with part A and part B. It is important to remove dissolved gas from the wash by vigorous stirring of the wash first – then add part A.
One hour later stir very gently and Part B should be added. Then leave the wash for at least 24 hours before decanting and distilling. Within 24 hours Turbo Clear removes over 95% of the yeast cells, solids and other unwanted compounds from the wash – at this point it is acceptable for distilling. For ultimate quality – leave for 48 hours to remove up to 99% of the solids.
It can sometimes take several days for the wash to become completely clear because alcohol yeasts are poor flocculators, but removing every last cell is not important. : Article: Clearing the wash
How much sugar for 25 litre wash?
Fermentation of Wash – Careful attention to producing a clean and high quality wash will reward you with higher quality finished spirits and liqueurs. The Distillation process is where most of the impurities are removed, but care and effort to make a clean wash makes a very satisfying difference to the Alcohol produced.
To produce a wash most suited to the T500 Distillation System, we recommend you ferment 6kg white sugar in 25 litres clean water using a Still Spirits Classic Turbo Yeast. Still Spirits Turbo Yeasts are carefully developed and premixed with the optimum nutrients to give high levels of Alcohol fermentation with minimal impurities.
Adding Still Spirits Liquid Carbon to the fermenting wash absorbs a significant portion of the undesirable flavours. The carbon makes the wash into a black liquid. The carbon does not harm the fermentation process, and is removed when the wash is cleared.
- Ensure the fermentation is allowed to run until all sugar is converted to Alcohol.
- A specific gravity reading on a Hydrometer of 990, or less, indicates the fermentation is complete.
- Clear the wash of yeast, and other fermentation by-products.
- These will contain undesirable flavours and odours.
- Use Still Spirits Turbo Clear following the instructions on the pack, and carefully siphon off the clear clean wash leaving the fermentation sediment in the fermenting vessel.
Actual steps to produce the cleared wash ready for distilling:
Clean and sterilise your fermenter. Add 21 litres of water to your fermenter at 40°C Add 6KGs white sugar and stir well to dissolve. Add Classic yeast and Turbo Carbon and stir well. Leave fermenter at 20°C room temperature to ferment The wash has finished fermenting when SG reading is at 990 or below and wash has stopped fizzing Add Turbo Clear; first stir vigorously to remove all gas, then add part A and stir well.1 hour later, evenly and gently mix part B in the top of the wash. Leave for 24 hours to clear. Carefully siphon contents of wash into boiler, leaving behind as much sediment as possible. Add 3ml (capful) of distilling conditioner and ceramic boil enhancers supplied, to help prevent frothing and surge boiling.
: BEGINNERS GUIDE – MAKING & FERMENTING THE WASH
How much mash can you put in a 5 gallon still?
For a 5 gallon mash: (201) –
5 gallons soft, filtered water. 7 lbs (3.2kg) cracked corn.6-8 pieces/kernel is the proper crack. If using bird feed, make sure it is perishable, or in other words is free of preservatives. 7 lbs (3.2kg) of granulated sugar. 1 tbsp yeast (distillers yeast if available.)
How much moonshine will a 6 gallon still make?
What do you get when you buy a still from us? – You get moonshine recipes and full setup instructions so you will know exactly how to set up your still! We are available to help you before, during, and after. All of our stills are constructed out of heavy duty 22 gauge copper. Our 6 gallon still is capable of producing over 1 gallon per run, Your still will look just like the one pictured. Our copper stills have a thumper. This 6 gallon moonshine still is equipped with a 1.5 gallon 3/8″ copper condensing worm. It also features in and out hose connections.
- All of our moonshine stills have a temperature and pressure gauge.
- This is a professional gauge.
- We are confident that this still is the best still that money can buy! We make the most rugged still on the market.
- Our main boiler is constructed using rivets, and all of our seams are hemmed.
- These are just a few of the things that we do to offer our customers the highest quality stills available.
We also offer a complete moonshine still kit at an affordable price. FEATURES This moonshine still is hand made. It takes a lot of time and skill to produce a quality still. We machine roll our pot, worm and thumper. They are also beaded and hemmed. Our stills really are a work of art.
It is quality that you will have to see to really appreciate. You can use this still on cook top that has 16 inch centers. The thumper and the pot can be used with a propane stand pressure burner if you prefer. You do not have to use this still in a straight configuration. The pot, worm, and thumper are connected by brass fittings which make it easy for you to move the worm and the pot further or closer to each other.
This still should never be used inside if you are using flammable materials. The finished product will be at 57 degrees Fahrenheit. It is vital that you use cool water in the worm. If you feel more comfortable placing your order on the phone call us at 800-590-4387.
How much grain for 5 gallon mash?
Basic Brewing Instructions Using The Brew Bag – 1. Water Volume The Brew In A Bag method calls for the total volume of water to be added to the kettle all at once. To achieve a consistent result, it is necessary to understand and calculate that volume as close as possible.
If your calculations are off the gravity reading will be off as well. There are two remedies; add water to the fermenter or boil kettle to lower the gravity, or boil off excess water to increase gravity. Here’s a general rule of thumb for water volume using The Brew Bag®. An average five gallon batch grain bill (total amount of grain to be used) with pre-boil gravity of 1.035 will call for ten pounds of grain.
Each pound of grain will absorb approximately 15 ounces of water. You’ll squeeze the bag of grain to regain about 8 ounces, so you’ll toss about 7 ounces with with the spent grain, so it’s a loss of volume. A five gallon batch calls for 5.25 gallons into the fermenter which equals 672 ounces Over a sixty-minute boil, based on a number of factors, evaporation will be ten to twenty percent, but you’ll also lose water volume to evaporation heating up and cooling down, so it’s a bit more than that.
| Water absorbed by 10 lbs grain = approx-10 oz per lb | Evaporation 7-15% | Trub – both in the kettle and the fermenter | 5.25 gal into the fermenter | Total water needed for 5 gal batch |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100 ounces | 100 ounces | 100 ounces | 672 ounces | 972 oz = 7.59 gals |
If you’re making an above average alcohol content beer, (above 1.050 OG) and use more than ten pounds of grain, add eight oz of water for every pound of grain over ten. That doesn’t sound like much, but eight pounds more (or eighteen pounds total) is sixty-four additional ounces, which is half of a gallon. You can always add water to reach volume and you can always boil longer to reduce volume.
| Total Grain Bill Average 5 gal batch | Average Total Gal Water | Total Ounces | Total Quarts |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8-12 lbs | 8.25 | 1056 | 33 |
| 15 lbs | 8.725 | 1118 | 34.9 |
| 20 | 9.125 | 1168 | 36.5 |
Water Temperature Now heat the water to your intended strike temperature (that means the temperature at which you stop heating and add the grain). The temperature of the mash (water with grain added) after adding the grain will fluctuate from batch to batch based on the temperature and volume of the grain. Rule of thumb # 2 – Mash Temperature Calculations The optimal strike temperature of the water for an average (post-boil gravity of 1.050) beer is approximately 157°. For a ten pound grain bill with a grain temperature of 70° F that is added to 8.25 gallons of water at 157°F (strike temperature) the water/mash temperature will drop 5° to 7° F after adding the grain.
| Temp °C | Temp °F | Enzyme | Breaks Down |
|---|---|---|---|
| 40-45 °C | 104.0-113.0 °F | β-Glucanase | β-Glucan |
| 50-54 °C | 122.0-129.2 °F | Protease | Protein |
| 62-67 °C | 143.6-152.6 °F | β-Amylase | Starch |
| 71-72 °C | 159.8-161.6 °F | α-Amylase | Starch |
This range is crucial to the enzymatic conversion potential of starches to fermentable sugars. After the grain has been added to the water and stirred thoroughly, record the temperature on your brew sheet instructions. You’ll reference this when recording the temperature loss over the forty-five to sixty minute mash period.2.
Maintaining Temperature No matter what the ambient temperature, insulating the kettle after adding the grain is important. This is done to maintain the mash temperature in the proper range and keep the enzymes working on the starch to convert it to sugar. A good material to insulate the kettle is HVAC duct wrap that has been laid flat, cut to length and then taped with aluminum duct tape.
Form a pillow out of the excess to place on the top of the kettle and then drape a blanket over the entire kettle with the insulation in place. Use a bungee cord, or velcro to secure the material to the kettle before putting the blanket on. If you don’t have access to that material, drape a couple of blankets over the kettle – MAKE CERTAIN THE FLAME HAS BEEN TURNED OFF! If you are brewing on your stove in a three gallon pot or similar, try placing the pot in the oven compartment during the mash to serve as the insulator – do not turn the oven on.3. Mash Time and Lifting The Brew Bag® The grain has been added to the kettle, the lid put on, and insulating material applied to the exterior all around.
Set a timer for forty-five to sixty minutes (depending of the grain bill size) and have a beer, or mow the lawn, or wash the car, or whatever. This is the prize for using The Brew Bag®, you can brew and complete other tasks at the same time. The timer alerts you that conversion of starches to sweet wort is likely complete.
Unwrap the kettle, lift the lid, and stir the mash thoroughly. Now record the temperature and write it next to the starting temperature reading. You’ll likely record 2° to 4° lower than when you started, and that’s OK as long as the temperature is in the range of 143° to 152°.
- Now lift the bag and let it drain back into the kettle.
- You can use your hands to lift The Brew Bag® by the loops, but it will get heavy after a few minutes.
- There is more than one way to lift the bag, so utilize the resources in your brewing space.
- It’s very simple and cheap to use a 1″ x 2″ x 24″ or so piece of wood placed through the loops to lift The Brew Bag®.
Place the wood through the loops, then lay the wood on the edge of the pot and turn it so the bag wraps around the wood and pulls The Brew Bag® out of the pot. This will also squeeze the bag at the same time. Don’t let go of the wood, and make sure to not put undue pressure on one side of the kettle or it may tip over. Let the bag drain until it trickles, or don’t wait, and squeeze the bag (this requires four hands or a pulley system) all around three to four times which will release the wort back into the kettle. Wear brewers gloves, this stuff is hot! Squeezing saves time. To understand this next concept, let’s think about diluting food coloring in a glass of water. The food coloring equates to the sugars derived from the grain during the mash, which, when mixed with water becomes wort. If we add five drops of food coloring to six ounces of water and compare that to five drops in twelve ounces of water, the coloring agent in the twelve ounces is now diluted by twice as much water and the color of the water is half as bold.
- A gravity reading (OG = Original Gravity) measures the amount of sugar in the wort.
- If we add or subtract water we change the concentration of those sugars and thus we change the gravity reading.
- With that in mind, and after lifting The Brew Bag®, check the pre-boil gravity using a hydrometer or a refractometer and refer to the brew sheet for the target.
If you’re within 2-4 points either side, begin the boil. If the OG is more than 5 points on the high side, you may need to add some water, or don’t and settle for a stronger alcohol beer. More sugar = more alcohol. If it’s lower than the target by 5 points you may want to boil off the excess.
In some cases the cause of the gravity reading being off is a result of the conversion percentage of the starches to sugars – that is generally a result of the mash temperature being too low or too high, so pay attention to those numbers and mash as close to 152° as you can. By the way, the myth about releasing tannins from the grain by squeezing the grain bag is just that – a myth.
Tannins are extracted at mash temps and are a normal result, however, pH above 5.8 combined with temperature above 170º may cause excess tannins to be extracted and that could produce a bitter tasting beer. So, use insulated rubber gloves and squeeze that bag! 4.
Emptying The Brew Bag After the wort has drained, use insulated rubber gloves to empty The Brew Bag® by grasping the bottom of the bag by the strapping and giving it a quick shake. The grain will simply fall out. Shake it a few more times and then turn it inside out and shake again. Then thoroughly rinse in warm water and hang to dry.
If you are going to use The Brew Bag® for the hop additions, just rinse and set aside until the boil begins. A helpful tip. Ignore the lautering requirement (and this is in BeerSmith software as well) to raise the mash temperature by rinsing the grain with 170° water, or to raise the mash temp to 168° for a “mash-out”.
In conventional lautering, this is done to help the wort flow, deactivate the enzymes and stop conversion – listen – you are lifting the grain out of the wort and you have already calculated your water volume and it is in the kettle – mash-out temperature and sparging is not necessary. In addition, you’re going to begin the boil in less than fifteen minutes after lifting The Brew Bag®, so you’ll exceed the 170° mark anyway.
In addition, the wort sugars between the bag and the kettle bottom are super-heated and may burn as you stir the grain in the bag while heating.5. Boil away – we’re getting closer to the beer! Boiling the wort does two things – it allows the hops to isomerize (literally change molecularly) which, depending on the length of time in the boil, will impart degrees of bitterness, flavor, or aroma to the beer, so this is a critical step in the process.
- If you’re going to use The Brew Bag® for your hop additions, (and we recommend that you do) you must not allow the bag to come into contact with the bottom of the kettle while the flame is on as it may scorch or melt the bag.
- Find a way to suspend the bag into the kettle about halfway into the wort.
- That’s additional incentive for using an overhead lift.
To keep the The Brew Bag® from billowing during the boil, add some weight to the bag by dropping in something stainless,or copper, maybe a few washers or whatever. The Brew Bag® with the hops inside needs to stay in the wort and not billow. The second result that occurs from boiling is the reduction of the volume of wort through evaporation. You calculated this loss of volume when you were creating the total volume. At the end of the boil time if the OG result is too low, it is likely because your water volume is too high, so you need to reduce volume by boiling to evaporate and concentrate the wort and hit the OG numbers.
You must consider that the longer the hops are boiling the more bitter the beer will be – so if you need to boil off some water, and you catch the pre-boil OG number as too low, wait until the proper volume is reached through evaporation to add the hops, and then start the timer as required by the recipe.6.
When the boil time is up, lift the bag with the hops, allow it to drain, and proceed as normal to chill your wort into the fermenter. The first time or two you brew using The Brew Bag®, you’ll discover how to control some of the variables and you’ll change things to be consistently in range of what you’re after.
Is 200 proof moonshine safe to drink?
Is there 200 Proof Moonshine? – Contrary to what other people think, 200 proof moonshine exists. It’s probably the STRONGEST concentration, the HIGHEST PROOF of moonshine, and the HIGHEST PERCENTAGE of alcohol you’ll find out there. Though it doesn’t take the usual distilling process and simple tools to make this one.
- Instead, there’s a lot of complexities that go on to get this really strong drink.
- Would you dare drink a 200 proof moonshine? You’d probably say yes if you’re a daredevil.
- Drinking 200 proof moonshine is NOT OKAY.
- You’re practically drinking ethyl alcohol.
- Remember, 200 proof moonshine has 100% alcohol content contained on it.
Drinking it pure would seriously burn your throat, That being said, be careful with moonshines that have 150 plus final alcohol content. On average, 100 to 120 proof is pretty much the level people can comfortably drink their moonshine. Any more than that? That’s something else.
How much honey do I need for 5 gallons of mash?
Ingredients: –
- 1 gallon of wildflower honey or honey of choice
- 5 gallons of water
- Super Start distillers yeast or yeast of choice
- Yeast nutrient
Should you stir your mash?
Final Thoughts – Stirring the mash after adding the yeast is not a good idea. You risk disrupting the fermentation process that turns sugar into alcohol. Instead, make sure your mash has the optimal conditions for the yeast to thrive. : Do You Stir Mash After Adding Yeast? 4 Things To Know
How much yeast do you put in 5 gallons of mash?
Create a simple yeast starter for 5 gallons of mash Add 2 packets of yeast (14 grams or 1 tablespoon if using bulk yeast).
How much mash can you put in a 5 gallon still?
For a 5 gallon mash: (201) –
5 gallons soft, filtered water. 7 lbs (3.2kg) cracked corn.6-8 pieces/kernel is the proper crack. If using bird feed, make sure it is perishable, or in other words is free of preservatives. 7 lbs (3.2kg) of granulated sugar. 1 tbsp yeast (distillers yeast if available.)
How much heads do you throw out on a 5 gallon still?
Are you planning on doing stripping runs or only spirit runs? Stripping Run A stripping run is the best way to remove water from within the wash. Simply fill the still with wash and run the still hot and fast. Collect everything into one large collection container.
Once there are multiple stripping runs saved, they can be added to a still and run as a spirit run. Think of the stripping run as nothing more than an alcohol concentration step: you can get a larger, more refined spirit if you do a stripping run. Stripping is usually achieved via the use of a pot still, but can be done with a de-tuned reflux still.
Running a pot still as quickly as possible will extract as much alcohol from your wash as possible. The distillate collected is called low wines. The low wines of several stripping runs are then collected and a spirit run is done. Spirit Run Spirit runs are used to distill low wines produced from a stripping run or from a single run in a pot still.
- A spirit run is used to separate the heads, hearts and tails for the final spirit, called the spirit run.
- A spirit run takes a lot more time than a stripping run.
- Foreshots Foreshots are the first vapors to boil off during distillation.
- They should not be ingested as they contain methanol and other volatile alcohols.
Always discard the foreshots — they make up around 5% or less of the product collected during a run. Throw out the first 30 ml on a 1 gallon run, the first 150 ml on a 5 gallon run, or the first 300 ml on a 10 gallon run. Heads Heads come off of the still directly after the foreshots.
Simply put, they taste and smell bad. Heads smell like paint thinner or solvent. They are not worth drinking and are said to be the main culprit in hangovers. Hearts Hearts come off the still after the heads. The hearts are the sweet spot during the run: This is the good stuff. The easiest way to tell when you’ve reached the hearts is simple: The harshness of the heads is replaced with a mellow, sweet-tasting flavor.
Once that harshness of the heads fades away, you know you are in the hearts. The heart cut is very important and this is where the skill of the distiller comes into play, because they must recognize the end of the heads, and the beginning of the tails.
Tails Tails come off the still following the hearts. The tails start once all of the lower boiling point alcohols have evaporated. The tails contain a lot of fusel oil and other alcohols that are not desirable in a finished product. The tails are mostly water, proteins, and carbohydrates and do not taste very good.
The tails start once the rich full flavors from the hearts taper off and start tasting thin. The tails make up between 20-30% of the run.
How much moonshine will a 6 gallon still make?
What do you get when you buy a still from us? – You get moonshine recipes and full setup instructions so you will know exactly how to set up your still! We are available to help you before, during, and after. All of our stills are constructed out of heavy duty 22 gauge copper. Our 6 gallon still is capable of producing over 1 gallon per run, Your still will look just like the one pictured. Our copper stills have a thumper. This 6 gallon moonshine still is equipped with a 1.5 gallon 3/8″ copper condensing worm. It also features in and out hose connections.
- All of our moonshine stills have a temperature and pressure gauge.
- This is a professional gauge.
- We are confident that this still is the best still that money can buy! We make the most rugged still on the market.
- Our main boiler is constructed using rivets, and all of our seams are hemmed.
- These are just a few of the things that we do to offer our customers the highest quality stills available.
We also offer a complete moonshine still kit at an affordable price. FEATURES This moonshine still is hand made. It takes a lot of time and skill to produce a quality still. We machine roll our pot, worm and thumper. They are also beaded and hemmed. Our stills really are a work of art. It is quality that you will have to see to really appreciate.
- You can use this still on cook top that has 16 inch centers.
- The thumper and the pot can be used with a propane stand pressure burner if you prefer.
- You do not have to use this still in a straight configuration.
- The pot, worm, and thumper are connected by brass fittings which make it easy for you to move the worm and the pot further or closer to each other.
This still should never be used inside if you are using flammable materials. The finished product will be at 57 degrees Fahrenheit. It is vital that you use cool water in the worm. If you feel more comfortable placing your order on the phone call us at 800-590-4387. You don’t have to use flour paste on our stills if you order one with the Cap Logic Cap! If you have ever used it you know how aggravating it is. If you haven’t you are lucky! SPECIFICATIONS 6 Gallon Pot with Pasco Tempature Gauge Height: 28.5″ Diameter: 9.75″ Total Set Up Length: 40 -2.25 Gallon Thumper 1 1/2″ Brass Flush Out -2.25 Gallon Condensing Worm 7 ft of Copper Condensing Coil 1″ in/out Hose Connections
We use silver solder on our moonshine stills Each still has a temperature and pressure gauge on it All stills are hand crafted, tested and polished Our stills are constructed out of heavy duty 20 0z. copper (.027 – 22ga.) We use lead free brass hose fittings on our stills
This still will do a great job for you. Your friends will be blown away and beyond impressed when they see this still and taste the great shine that YOU made! Our 6 gallon still is capable of producing over 1 gallon per run SHIPPING We ship all of our stills via FedEx, and we offer shipping to customers in the contiguous United States (48 States). All of our moonshine stills are made to order, but we will ship your order as soon as possible.
We will contact you via email, and let you know the when your order has shipped along with the tracking number. Because these stills are individually handcrafted to ensure the highest quality, please allow eight weeks for delivery* WARRANTY We have a 100% guarantee on workmanship on our moonshine stills.
We are the only still manufacturer that offers this. PAYMENT We take all major credit cards or Paypal. We make it easy! We realize that some of you may prefer to pay with a check. If this is your situation please contact us and let us know this is what you would like to do. We will be glad to work with you. * This is an estimated lead time before your order ships. The actual lead time may be shorter OR longer based on the volume of current demand. You’re viewing: 6 Gallon Traditional Copper – Moonshine Still $ 735.00 Add to cart
