The True Cost of Home Brewing – For home brew, you have to invest in supplies, plus ingredients for each batch. A basic home brewing kit at MoreBeer.com costs $109. Shipping is free. An ingredient kit, called extract, for mild brown beer costs $25 and makes 5 gallons, or about 50 beers (equivalent to 8.3 six-packs).
- A tube of liquid yeast costs $5.75 and bottle caps (I’m going to assume you saved empty beer bottles to avoid the cost of buying new ones) will run you $1.50.
- That brings the cost of your first batch of home brewed beer to $141.25.
- That’s $16.95 per six-pack! However, each additional batch of home brew only costs $32.25 (extract + yeast + caps).
A batch makes 8.3 six-packs, so you only have to brew once every two months, give or take. A year of home brewing will cost you $109 for the kit, plus six batches at $32.25 each. That comes to $302.50. Home brewing saves approximately $62 a year. Hmmmm. W ith that kind of savings, brewing your own beer might not be the kind of money-saving endeavor that would help fund your next vacation or amount to a significant contribution to your emergency fund.
- 1 How much does it cost to produce one beer?
- 2 Can you craft your own beer?
- 3 Can you brew 1 gallon of beer?
- 4 Is homemade beer better than store bought?
- 5 Is homemade beer better than store bought?
- 6 How much beer does a homebrew kit make?
How much does it cost to produce one beer?
Malt: $0.65. Hops: $0.53. Yeast (Assuming 4 Uses): $0.13. Labor: $0.15.
Is it expensive to make your own beer?
After your first batch the recurring costs of homebrewing become cheaper since you’re just replenishing ingredients. Craft a Brew 1 gallon beer recipe kits (ingredient refills) range from $15 – $18. That works out to about $1.50 – $1.80 per 12oz bottle (~10 bottles per 1 gallon batch).
How much does it cost to make a pint of beer?
$0.10 a pint may be in play for a large brewery, but at the craft level, raw materials aren’t that low. Additionally, there are many, many more costs associated with brewing than just the materials.
How much does it cost to brew 5 gallons of beer?
Case Study #2 – Inspired by Don Simpon’s analysis, John Dura provided his own cost analysis for homebrewing. He used a similar model, but instead of just arriving at a marginal (or incremental) cost of 5 gallons of homebrew, he calculates the depreciation of investment in equipment over its economic life, and rolls it into cost of production.
He assumes the average homebrew is brewed in 5 gallon batches with a cooler mash system, a decent 10 gallon kettle (with ball valve and thermometer) with a jet style propane burner, and has all the necessary equipment to support this style of brewing: carboys, temperature controllers, a fermentation heater, lots of bottles and a bench capper.
Dura calculated the initial investment is about $1,357. However, much of this equipment doesn’t need to be replaced (he’s been brewing on the same equipment for 25 years) unless it breaks (carboy, siphon, etc.). Dura then assigned a 40-year lifespan to the equipment, depreciating $1,357 over 40 years at 12 brewing session a year results in an equipment cost per 5 gallon batch of $2.83.
For the sake of variety, if you put the cost of equipment to $1500 and cut the lifespan of equipment to 20 years at 10 brewing sessions a year, the cost per 5 gallon batch is $7.50. John also assumes annual expenses such as siphon tubing, cleaning materials and sanitizing chemicals, which come to about $27 a year.
Dividing these costs over 12 batches (one year) results in $2.25 per 5 gallons. If you even brew 10 times a year, your cost is $2.70 per 5 gallons. For the direct costs of grain (pre-crushed), liquid yeast, hops, priming sugar, propane and bottle caps, John estimates $46 for a robust recipe.
For the sake of argument, he sets labor cost at $0 because homebrewing is a hobby of enjoyment not forced labor. For a 5 gallon batch, the formula used is depreciation expenses + annual expenses + direct expenses = total cost per batch ($2.83+$2.25+$46=$51.08). Dura then considers to get about 53 bottles per 5 gallon batch of homebrew, yielding $0.96 per 12-ounce bottle.
Macrobrewed beer will run you about $0.63 per bottle (by the case) and craft brew about $1.38. His conclusion is that homebrewers enjoy their beer for less than a dollar (or about a dollar if you keg) per 12-ounce serving, and that doesn’t account for the joy of creating something that’s your own, which is priceless.
How much profit per barrel of beer?
If you have capital burning a hole in your pocket, buy a boiler, a fermentation vat and a bottling machine. – Bent on living a dream, Linus Hall quit his engineering job at Bridgestone Firestone in 2001. He then groveled for an unpaid summer internship at Brooklyn Brewery: long days of mashing, fermenting and brewing.
“You can’t buy that kind of education,” says Hall, who has a Vanderbilt M.B.A. With honed brewing prowess (and a good chunk of his savings) Hall fired up the kettles at his own operation-Nashville’s Yazoo Brewing-in 2003. Yazoo now makes six beers, including its signature Dos Perros Ale and Amarillo Pale Ale.
Its Hefeweizen won a gold medal at the 2004 Great American Beer Festival. Hall is among the merry crew restoring vigorous health to America’s 300-year-old brewing tradition. A century ago the U.S. boasted 2,000 breweries. Prohibition, wars, consolidation and a narrowing of the American palate had by 1985 whittled that number to 100.
- Today, however, variety rules anew: 1,450 U.S.
- Brewers make choosing a mug an adventure.
- The current revolution began in the basements of thousands of discontented beer drinkers.
- All of us come from home brewing,” asserts Hall, 35.
- They have come a long way from boiling grains on a stove and fermenting the result in a closet.
Last year craft brewers, who span microbrewers, regional specialty brewers and brewpubs, sold 7 million barrels (31 gallons each), a 9% increase on 2004. That was worth $4.3 billion in retail sales, giving craft brewers a 3.4% share of a flat 205 million-barrel-a-year U.S.
Market. Only capacity holds them back. “We’re in the enviable position of selling everything we can make,” says Hall, who expects to sell 5,500 barrels this year, an 83% increase. Hall spent $240,000 outfitting his leased building and buying equipment. A failed microbrewery in Iowa sold him much of his brewing gear.
For $60,000 he got a ten-barrel system that included a mash tun (the vessel in which the water and grains are combined), a boiling kettle and four fermenters. That system, new, would run to $150,000. “The craft beer business is very capital-intensive,” Hall says, “but you can break even fairly quickly because the margins are good.” Craft brewers can expect a gross margin near 50% on an average $200 of revenue per barrel of draft beer.
Most small breweries do their own bottling, which raises the revenue but tends to reduce the gross profit. Bottling, moreover, eats up more capital. A machine that fills four bottles at a time (the caps go on manually) costs $3,000 secondhand; a big in-line bottling system that can cap the bottles starts at $100,000 secondhand and $250,000 new.
Overall, costs of bottled beer break down evenly among labor, ingredients and packaging. Of course, the pesky taxman can’t be ignored. The federal Alcohol & Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau takes $7 a barrel from a brewer’s first 60,000 barrels, $18 per barrel thereafter, though that is not a concern to most craft brewers.
State excise taxes run from 62 cents in Wyoming to $33 in Alaska. Several states also sneak in a “wholesale tax” on brewers; Tennessee’s is the highest at 17% of sales. A brewery operates much like a huge lab. It needs to be clinically clean, have sealed concrete floors with several large drains (it takes 8 gallons of water to make 1 gallon of beer), a spacious refrigerated room and copious utility connections.
Homes have 3 / 4 -inch water lines; microbreweries need a tap with three times that diameter (and ten times the flow). For electricity you need at least 1,300 amps over a 240-volt, three-phase line. Aspiring brewers can get vocational education. The Siebel Institute in Chicago, the oldest brewmaster school in America, runs a 2-week course for beginners, at $2,950.
- Siebel President Lyn Kruger, in only half-jest, refers to the short course as “Career Change 101.” It is offered once in the fall in Chicago and once in the spring at Siebel’s Munich, Germany branch.
- If you pass that course or can show that you have been home-brewing or working in a brewery for two years, you are eligible to shell out $13,500 for a 12-week course.
That sum includes return airfare for three weeks spent in Germany and for a two-week European brewing study tour, which often goes to Belgium and the Czech Republic. Siebel’s alumni include Peter Stroh and August Busch II. The brewing is the fun part of the business.
- The drudgery: getting the beer out the door.
- Beverage distribution networks are hard to crack.
- Wholesalers can’t be bothered to carry the beer of an unknown.
- Many new brewers are forced to cart the stuff around themselves at the beginning.
- Timothy Herzog, who runs Buffalo’s Flying Bison, did just that for four years.
Tales of meddling Teamsters, skeptical store owners and late-paying customers failed to deter Herzog, 48, a former art teacher. Nor did a Buffalo distributor’s efforts to convince bar owners to ditch Herzog’s taps for those of the distributor’s clients.
The practice, called “head-hunting,” is prevalent and “not very nice,” says Herzog. Nice or not, Buffalo’s bar owners wouldn’t part with Flying Bison’s brews. That (and his four years of legwork) finally got Herzog on board with the region’s largest distributor; his beer now travels on trucks alongside kegs and 24-packs of Budweiser and Labatt.
It won’t do, of course, to produce bland, Bud-like brews. You have to concoct something with an unusual color, flavor or alcohol content. “Everyone has a pale ale,” says Adam Avery, 40, who owns Avery Brewing in Boulder, Colo. with his father, Larry P., 65.
- Most small brewers prefer crafting ales rather than lagers because ale can be fermented in around two weeks, rather than up to 10 weeks for a lager, which ties up brewery capacity.
- Avery started up in 1993 and was cranking out 3,500 barrels by 1998 when business tanked.
- So the Averys introduced Hog Heaven, a potent 9.2%-alcohol ale made from barley.
It was a hit. Avery followed that up with the Dictators: three powerful beers dubbed the Maharaja (a hoppy, dark amber ale), the Kaiser (a deep copper, traditional Oktoberfest brew) and the Czar (a robust stout with hints of toffee and mocha). Avery, which now sells in 26 states, will make 10,000 barrels this year.
- Robert Baile, 52, spent 20 years as a research chemist for Syntex Pharmaceuticals (now Roche) and five home-brewing in his basement before buying into the business in 1996.
- His Twisted Pine Brewery also in Boulder, brews a $5 (per pint) whiskey stout that drinkers can find in only one place: Twisted Pine’s tasting room.
(No, there are no distilled spirits in it; the name alludes to the brew’s aging in used whiskey barrels.) “What did that pint cost me-25 cents? The best margins are right here,” he says. The tasting room fills up regularly around 6 p.m. Baile is considering adding a kitchen with a pizza oven.
How long does it take to make beer?
The short answer is that, on average, it takes about four hours to brew beer, one to two weeks to ferment and condition, two hours to package in bottles, and one to two weeks to naturally carbonate in bottles. So, trom start to finish, on average, it takes anywhere from two to four weeks to make beer.
Can you craft your own beer?
A good quality beer kit. – Starting with a kit is the easiest way to begin crafting your own beer. You can also make beer from scratch using grains, hops, water and yeast but this is quite involved so we recommend new brewers to go the kit route for their first brew at least.
What is 1 pint worth?
What is an Example of 1 Pint? –
- A pint is equivalent to 2 cups (for example, a large glass of milk).
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- The value of 1 Pint = 2 Cups = 16 Fluid Ounces.
- A unit quart (qt) is used in place of a pint for measuring many cups of liquid together.
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- The value of 1 quart (qt) is similar to 4 cups or 2 pints.
- The Value of 1 Quart = 2 Pint = 4 Cups = 32 Fluid Ounces
- If we still need to measure more liquid, then we can use the unit gallon in place of quat(qt).
- 1 Gallon = 8 Pints = 16 Cups = 4 Quarts
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- Gallon is the largest measurement of liquid.
- Note: A Quart is a Quarter of a Gallon.
How much profit is a pint?
What Is the Profit Margin on Beer? – The profit margin for bottled beer should be around 75%, while the profit margin for draft beer should be about 80%.
How much is 2 pints of beer?
Can I Drink Two Pints Of Alcohol And Drive? Will two pints of beer put you over the limit? Photo credit: Question: So I’m going to play poker tonight. Let’s say I arrive at 9 p.m., drink two cans of cider, and leave around midnight. Answer: Drinking and driving is extremely dangerous. If you’ve had one too many and somehow manage to sneak past the highway patrol, your actions may lead to an accident that causes physical injury or death.
- Yet, in spite of these cold, hard facts, we often find ourselves out for a night on the town wondering if it’s OK to have just one more drink before we hit the road.
- In the United States, it is illegal to drive with a blood alcohol content over,08,” says Erin Holmes, director of traffic safety at the “The,08 BAC per se limit is based on more than three decades of scientific research.” That research reveals that once drivers reach a level of,08, critical driving skills, including reaction time, the ability to perform divided-attention tasks, and judgment of speed and distance, become dangerously compromised.
But how many drinks does it actually take to reach the,08 level? First, we have to consider the exact definition of a “drink.” Holmes reveals that the federal government’s official nutrition policy defines a standard drink of alcohol as 1.5 ounces of 80-proof distilled spirits, 12 ounces of regular beer, or 5 ounces of wine.
Therefore, a pint of beer (16 ounces) is a little more than one drink. And two pints is a little more than 2.5 drinks. Two pints might be enough to get you to a,08 alcohol level, but then again, it might not. There are a number of factors that contribute to each individual’s rate of intoxication, but two of the biggest ones are weight and sex.
“According to the government studies for a 180-lb. man, it takes 4 12-ounce 5% alcohol beers, 4 ounces of wine or 1.5 ounces of 80-proof liquor,” says George C. Creal, Jr., a DUI attorney in Atlanta. “For a 100-lb. woman, it can be as little as two such drinks.” And while some people might turn to water or coffee to diffuse the impact of alcohol, one of the best things you can actually do is eat something before you start drinking.
- Blood alcohol can peak on an empty stomach after 30 minutes, while a full stomach can take up to two hours,” continues Creal.
- To keep things moderate he recommends consuming no more than two drinks at a sitting and sipping slowly—just one drink per hour.
- It should also be noted that the penalties for drinking and driving vary widely from state to state.
Drivers charged with a first-time DUI in Georgia will have to serve a minimum of 24 hours in jail, while first-time offenders in Virginia are fined a minimum of $250 and will have their driving licenses revoked for one year. And if you get a DUI your auto insurance options will be extremely limited.
And expensive. James Stewart, a agent, notes that in California, a State Farm driver who is convicted of a DUI has a 99% chance of getting dropped. State Farm will also not insure someone with a DUI conviction for 10 years from the conviction date. “And in instances where State Farm will continue to insure the person convicted of DUI, that person could be looking at his or her rates at least tripling,” says Stuart.
So, even if you’ve eaten a big meal and are spacing your drinks out throughout the evening, ask yourself if one more drink is worth the spectrum of chaos that potentially awaits you if you drink and drive. You may be physically able to handle another drink, but you probably shouldn’t.
Can you brew 1 gallon of beer?
2. Decreased Space Needed – We are not all fortunate enough to have a dedicated brewing room or space. Many of us have to make do with an apartment/townhouse stove or small patio.1 gallon brewing is extremely doable in these small spaces. There is no need to store a large mash tun, boil kettle, or brewing stand.
Is it hard to make beer at home?
Everybody who loves beer has at one point considered trying to make their own. And while getting into homebrewing can seem like a daunting and difficult prospect, making your own beer at home is not hard to do, and you can get started with an initial investment of well under $100. Homebrewing has come a long way since President Carter legalized the practice of home fermentation in 1978. It’s not just bearded guys in cargo shorts making murky pints in their bathtubs; the American Homebrewers Assn. (AHA) estimates that there are more than a million homebrewers in America, and the hobby is growing fast as more people discover craft beer. Saturday is ” Learn to Homebrew Day,” and it’s a great excuse to dive into the world of making your own beer. Here are four reasons why you should give it a try. It’s easier than you think Getting started can be as simple as getting an all-in-one kit, and you can start with one sold by the Brooklyn Brew Shop, Kits are available from online retailers and local chains like BevMo! and Total Wine for about $40, and each box has nearly everything you need to brew about a six pack of beer. You’ll just need a stock pot, a funnel, and a few hours to put it all together. A dozen different beer styles are available in kit form, and they are a great way to dip your toe into the hobby before purchasing a bunch of specialty equipment. The actual process of brewing the beer is only as difficult as boiling water, stirring things, and being careful about cleanliness (ask any professional brewer and they’ll tell you 90% of their job is scrubbing things). Once the work is done and you’ve transferred the wort (unfermented beer) into the included glass jug, you just let the yeast do all the hard work, and in a few weeks you’ll have about a gallon of beer to drink! >>Los Angeles craft beer guide Making beer at home is an enduring challenge Homebrewing is one of those simple-to-learn, but difficult-to-master activities that offer endless room for experimentation and process refinement. While it’s easy to make small batches with limited space and equipment, if you’re someone who loves gadgets, gear and hardware, then homebrewing will give you ample opportunities to buy, build and collect all kinds of hardware for bigger and more complicated batches. There’s a reason why so many engineers find homebrewing to be a fulfilling creative outlet. There’s no one right way to make beer, and developing your own techniques, methodologies and recipes can be a lifelong pursuit. You can make new friends The homebrewing community in Southern California is thriving and one of the most developed in the nation.L.A. is home to the nation’s oldest homebrewing club, the Maltose Falcons, and there are a dozen other organizations spread across the Southland. These groups hold meetings, club brew days and offer support and advice for newcomers and veterans alike. Another great aspect of the homebrewing scene in California is just how inclusive and diverse it is. You can visit the AHA’s website to find local homebrewing organizations, If you enjoy entertaining, always having a supply of delicious and unique homemade brews around can also make you pretty popular. You can do it your way Even with the nearly limitless options of flavors and styles of craft beer available, you can’t always find exactly what you’re looking for. Homebrewing lets you build your perfect pint exactly to your own specifications. Can’t find a chocolate-flavored IPA at the beer store? You can make your own. Have a persimmon tree in the backyard? Turn your autumn bounty into your own seasonal ale. Sad that your favorite commercial beer is being retired ? Formulate a homebrew clone version so you can sip on it year-round. ALSO: Looking for some sweet dates? You’re in the right place Dining with an Instagram-worthy view at Alain Ducasse’s Rivea at the Delano Las Vegas Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants, 2015: Where to get tacos and more Mexican food
Is homemade beer better than store bought?
Quality Control – When buying commercial beers from stores or bars, it’s impossible to know exactly what went into them or how they were brewed. By making your own beer at home, however, you have complete control over the ingredients’ quality and how long each batch ferments before being consumed.
What is the most profitable beer company?
Beer Industry FAQ –
- Who is the largest beer company in the world? The largest beer company in the world is Anheuser-Busch Inbev. With a 2022 revenue of $57.786 billion, Anheuser-Busch Inbev is the largest beer company in the world. The second largest beer company in the world is Heineken, which had a revenue of $38 billion in 2022.
- How many beer companies are there in the world? There are over 19,000 beer companies in the world. It is estimated that the majority of these companies are small microbreweries that are highly localized to their geographic location.
- What is the world’s oldest beer company? Weihenstephan is the oldest beer company in the world. Located in Freising, Germany, Weihenstephan claims to have been founded in 1040. However, it should be noted, that the earliest evidence of this brewery’s existence dates it to 1675, which is still a significant age.
: The 10 Largest Beer Companies In the World – Zippia
How many beers in a full barrel?
50 Liter = 13.2 gallons = 105 pints = 140 12oz bottles.
Is 1 beer a day good for you?
Defining moderate – Moderate alcohol use for healthy adults generally means up to one drink a day for women and up to two drinks a day for men. Examples of one drink include:
- Beer: 12 fluid ounces (355 milliliters)
- Wine: 5 fluid ounces (148 milliliters)
- Distilled spirits (80 proof): 1.5 fluid ounces (44 milliliters)
Who made beer first?
The Sumerians – There are some theories that beer brewing happened at Godin Tepe settlement (now in modern-day Iran) as early as 10,000 BCE when agriculture first developed in the region. The people who lived in the land between the Euphrates and Tigris rivers considered beer a very important part of their diet. They called it ” the divine drink ” because of its intoxicating effect. Alulu beer receipt – This records a purchase of “best” beer from a brewer, c.2050 BC from the Sumerian city of Umma in ancient Iraq The first solid proof of beer production comes from the period of the Sumerians around 4,000 BCE. During an archeological excavation in Mesopotamia, a tablet was discovered that showed villagers drinking a beverage from a bowl with straws.
Is homemade beer better than store bought?
Quality Control – When buying commercial beers from stores or bars, it’s impossible to know exactly what went into them or how they were brewed. By making your own beer at home, however, you have complete control over the ingredients’ quality and how long each batch ferments before being consumed.
Is it more expensive to make non alcoholic beer?
Cost of Raw Materials – One of the main reasons why non-alcoholic beer is expensive is due to the cost of raw materials. The ingredients used to make non-alcoholic beer are often more expensive than those used to make regular beer. For example, the process of removing alcohol from beer requires additional steps and equipment, which can drive up the cost of production.
- Another factor that contributes to the cost of raw materials is the quality of the ingredients used.
- Non-alcoholic beer often requires higher quality ingredients to achieve the desired taste and aroma.
- This means that breweries need to source premium hops, malts, and other ingredients, which can be more expensive than those used in regular beer.
In addition, the supply chain for non-alcoholic beer can be more complex than that of regular beer. Many breweries need to source ingredients from multiple suppliers, which can increase the cost of production. Furthermore, the demand for non-alcoholic beer is still relatively low compared to regular beer, which means that economies of scale are not yet fully realized.
How much beer does a homebrew kit make?
FAQs Just got a DIY Beer Brew Kit Numerous commercial breweries, around the world, make excellent beer using open style fermenting vessels. So an airlock is not required for fermentation to take place. However, the DIY Beer Kit comes with a lid to prevent ingress of foreign organisms while allowing CO2 gas to escape.
You can ferment your brew without the Krausen Kollar in place if you like. However, we recommend using the Krausen Kollar because it increases the total headspace, which helps to contain the foam. Also, it catches the deposit made by the foam – once the foam collapses the Krausen Kollar may be removed while the deposit is still soft and moist, then easily cleaned ready for the next brew.
These are designed to secure the Lid and Krausen Kollar together, effectively making them work as the one unit. This prevents the lid from being pushed off by the foam during a particularly aggressive fermentation, such as an Imperial Stout fermentation.
Wetting the plunger before putting the tap together and wetting the O rings before inserting the tap into the fermenting vessel should be all that is required as lubrication. Don’t worry, this is known as “cold break” and it’s perfectly normal. In fact, it is a good thing! Normally, Cold Break forms in the brewery when the wort is cooled.
However, our beer kits and malt extracts are not allowed to cool prior to being concentrated to about 80% solids. Once at this density, the cold break cannot precipitate out of solution. Cold Break can only precipitate out once the beer kit and or malt extract is reconstituted (diluted with water).
Basic instructions can be found on the reverse side of the brew can label. Our how to videos are accessible via the Brewing Support page: Please contact us direct if you’d like basic brewing written instructions, emailed to you. You are sure to find helpful tips and advice from avid DIY brewers & our friendly DIY Beer team when you visit our Community: Should you require further assistance please do not hesitate to contact our friendly DIY Beer Team.
Email: [email protected] Brewing Helpline: 1300 654 455 (from within Australia Only) or +61 (08) 8440 1800 (for overseas callers). The approximate alcohol content can be calculated by firstly measuring with a hydrometer the density (known as Specific Gravity, SG) of the brew before it has started fermenting and once it has finished fermenting then plugging these two figures into a formula.
- It is important to stress that we, as DIY Brewers, can’t measure the alcohol content directly and this method is only an approximation of the percentage of alcohol by volume (ABV).
- OG is the Original Gravity (SG of the brew as it has been mixed) FG is the Final Gravity (SG of the brew once fermentation has finished) (OG – FG) / 7.46 = Approx % Alcohol By Volume For example, a brew with OG = 1036, FG = 1012: (1036 – 1012) / 7.46 = 3.2% ABV.
Note: allow for an extra 0.3% to 0.5% ABV due to the addition of Carbonation Drops (or sugar) in the bottle. The first time you use your kit from new, you can just rinse it in hot water. Just remember, whenever you’re cleaning your equipment, only use a soft cloth that won’t scratch it.
For future brews, we recommend that you sanitise all your brewing equipment before each brew. Note: santising is most effective on equipment that has already been cleaned (free from any any obvious soiling). We recommend products which carry Oxygen Bleaching capacity (active ingredient – Sodium Percarbonate), such as Hypo-Allergenic or Sensitive Napisan type products.
In the absence of these products, normal unscented household bleach (active ingredient – Sodium Hypochlorite) may be used. To sanitise using Oxy Bleach Sanitiser: Dissolve 4 tablespoons of Sanitiser in the Fermenting Vessel (FV) with one litre of hot/warm water.
Place all equipment in the FV, fill to the brim with cold water and let soak overnight (or at least 2 hours). Drain the FV through the tap and rinse all equipment thoroughly to remove any remaining suds. To sanitise using Unscented Household Bleach: Add ¼ cup of unscented household bleach to the FV. Place all equipment in the FV, fill with cool water and let soak overnight (or at least 30mins).
Rinse out with hot water to remove all traces of chlorine smell. Signs of fermentation are:
- Cloudiness in the brew
- Obvious convection within the brew.
- A sample drawn from the tap is fizzy
- The density has dropped to less than the OG.
The hydrometer is a calibrated instrument used to determine the Specific Gravity (SG) of the brew. SG is the density of a liquid relative to the density of water. With the hydrometer floating, the SG is read at the point where the graduated scale cuts the surface of the liquid in the sample flask (meniscus).
To get an accurate reading you may need to ‘de-gas’ your sample. To do this, pass the sample from one glass to another and back again four to five times, then return the sample to the flask. Ensure that enough beer is in the flask to allow the hydrometer to float freely and the surface is relatively free of foam.
To dislodge bubbles clinging to the Coopers DIY Beer plastic hydrometer, tap the floating hydrometer downward so that it bumps on the base of the measuring tube. DO NOT attempt this with a glass hydrometer (read the below FAQ for more on glass hydrometers).
Please note that FG may vary from brew to brew. So it’s important to ensure that the FG is stable over two days prior to bottling. For more information, click to watch our how-to-video on, Due to supply chain issues we have had to temporarily replace our durable Coopers DIY Beer plastic hydrometer with a glass version in our Brew Kits.
The glass hydrometer works the same way as our plastic one, however how it is read differs slightly from what is shown in the ‘Hydrometer Use’ video. If you would prefer a plastic hydrometer email [email protected] with your postal address and we’ll send you one of our durable plastic hydrometers when they are back in stock.
- Remove the packing foam from the sample flask before using it. Ensure the bottom end cap is secure before placing your hydrometer in the tube.
- There are several scales on this hydrometer but the one you’re interested in, the Specific Gravity (SG) scale, has 80 at the top and 50 at the bottom. Ignore the warning in the instructions that come with this hydrometer that beer should not be bottled until the SG is below 1.006.
- Have a practice run with water. Tap water at 20C should read about 1.000, just below the red band near the top.
- Your first brew, using the ingredients that came in the Brew Kit (1.7kg Lager + 1kg Brew Enhancer 1), made to 23 litres will have a Starting Gravity of about 1.038 (between 30 and 40 in the orange band of the SG scale). Note: This will not be in the ” ” range shown on this hydrometer.
- Your first brew (as above) will have a Final Gravity (FG) of around 1.015 (This will now be within the ” ” range). As per instructions in the ‘Hydrometer use’ video, bottle your beer when SG stabilises over 24 – 48 hours. This is your FG.
For more information, click to watch our how-to-video on, Try to keep the brew at the lower end of the 21°C-27°C range. Some ways you can do this include storing the fermenter inside at ambient temperature, placing it in an insulated cabinet, wrapping it in a blanket, purchasing a heat belt or placing the fermenter in a tub/sink of cool water.
- Brew Kit Hints & Tips If you don’t plan to make beer straight away, store the yeast in the fridge to keep it fresh.
- Before inserting your tap into the fermenting vessel, it is recommended that you wet the two silicone O rings with tap water or a ‘no rinse’ sanitiser.
- This will make inserting the tap easier and prolong the lifespan of the O rings.
To clean the tap after each brew, pull it apart, remove any yeast deposits/hop debris etc. with a soft cloth and warm soapy water, sanitise, rinse and allow to dry if not using immediately. We suggest leaving it apart until you need it again. When pitching your Yeast, getting your brew temperature right (approximately 21°C) is important, the first time you brew we recommend you do a ‘Wet Run’ without ingredients.
- Using cold water, fill the FV to the 15 litre mark and make a note of the temperature. Your Thermometer Strip may show colour in 2 or 3 panels, the middle of this range is the temperature of your brew.
- Continue filling to 23 litre mark, using either hot or cold water so that you achieve an 18°C – 21°C water temperature. If your tap water is over 21°C, chill 3 or 4 PET Bottles of water in the fridge for a few hours to use in your brew.
Even if the brew temperature is outside of the 21°C-27°C range, add the yeast anyway as it is important to allow the yeast to start working as soon as possible. Once the yeast is added, try to get the brew temperature to move toward the desired temperature range.
- Make a point of doing a ‘Wet Run’ prior to your next brew to better understand the ratio of hot/cold water for achieving the desired temperature.
- There is no point to bottling a brew that is spoiled in some way.
- Once fermentation is complete, have a smell and a taste of the SG sample.
- If it tastes like flat beer, free of any bad aromas/flavours, it’s okay to bottle.
As each bottle is filled the bottling valve becomes immersed in beer, producing a few drips when the bottle is removed. So use a bowl or bucket to catch these drips. Fill each bottle almost to the brim then remove from the bottling valve, add carbonation drops and screw the lid down tight.
- Different beer styles require appropriate maturation in the bottle to suit your personal preference.
- Your beer will taste great after two weeks.
- However, the aroma, flavour and clarity should improve with age.
- Maturing the beer will also help to produce a finer bead (smaller bubbles), which helps to produce a more creamy and persistent head.
We recommend serving your beer from a glass. For ease of cleaning, rinse out PET bottles while the contents are still moist. Just got a DIY Beer Craft Brew Kit? The DIY Beer Craft Brew Kit is designed to make 8.5 litres of beer. Outer Dimensions: Fermenter Diameter: 28cm Lid Diameter (including handles): 31cm Fermenter Height: 33.5cm Fermenter Height with lid: 37.5cm Kit Package Dimensions 42cm H x 28cm L x 28cm W Capacity: The total volume of the Craft Brew Kit is 15 litres (Fermenting Vessel = 13.3 litres & Lid = 1.7 litres) specifically designed to accommodate 8.5 litre brews with 4.8 litres head space (the space required for foaming during fermentation).
Fitted with the Craft Krausen Kollar extends the head space by 2 litres. Higher alcohol brews, darker brews or brews using a vigorous fermenting yeast strain may require the krausen kollar. For more information, click to watch our how-to-video on, Coopers have produced a range of craft beer styles specifically for our US sister company; Mr Beer.
The Mr Beer American Craft Series is a premium range of 100% Malt beer brew cans specifically designed to produce a fuller bodied, full flavoured beer typical of these craft beer styles. Each variety uses only the best quality malts, bittering and aromatic hops and specially selected yeast.
All designed to make 8.5 litres of quality craft beer. The Coopers Online Store stocks the entire Mr Beer Craft Series. Alternatively, please email Online Store Support and they can provide you with specialist home brewing stores in your area which stock the craft series. Yes, click here to view all DIY Recipes Use the dropdown filter to select the volume as ‘7-10L’ and this will only show recipes made for the Craft Fermenting Vessel.
The Craft Brew Kit is specifically designed to make 8.5 litres of beer using a 1.3kg Craft Brew can. The Coopers 1.7kg brew cans are designed for 23 litre brews. As such, using the entire can in the Craft Brew Kit will potentially create an unbalanced beer by
- Increasing bitterness
- Increasing colour
- Increasing alcohol content
- Increasing the density and therefore could make the final beer unpalatable for your taste. There are more Craft Brew Recipes available should you wish to experiment further.
The lid clips may be used to secure the lid to the FV. When using the Krausen Kollar (sold separately in Australia) during a more vigorous or high foaming brew the lid clips are used to secure the lid to the Krausen Kollar. The approximate expected percentage alcohol by volume (ABV) will be 5.5% when using just a 1.3kg Craft Series Brew Can.
- No, the 1.3kg cans of hopped malt extract in the Craft Series are tailored to give you a full strength (5.5% abv) beer when made to 8.5 litres with no other fermentable sugars.
- You may use additional malt extract and/or sugar/dextrose if you wish.
- Check out our Recipe Library for ideas on how to modify the brews to your taste and requirements.
- The Coopers DIY Beer Brew Kit is available at BIG W, Dan Murphys and direct from diybeer.com
- The Coopers DIY Beer Craft Brew Kit is only available direct from diybeer.com
- The complete range of Coopers DIY Beer products with the freshest brewing extracts are available to purchase direct from diybeer.com
Our Original Series, International Series and additional Ingredients (brewing sugars) are available at Big W, Dan Murphy’s, Woolworths, Coles, IGA’s, Foodland, and Foodworks nationwide. Please note that product availability will vary from each store brand and within their individual store networks. Selected Thomas Coopers Series brewing extracts are available at Big W and Dan Murphy’s.
- The sugar composition of Coopers Brewing Sugars are:
- Light Dry Malt – 100% light dry malt
- Dextrose – 100% dextrose
- Brewing Sugar – Predominantly dextrose with maltodextrin
- Brew Enhancer 1 – Predominantly dextrose with maltodextrin (a higher proportion of maltodextrin than Brewing Sugar)
- Brew Enhancer 2 – Predominantly dextrose with maltodextrin and light dry malt
- Brew Enhancer 3 – Predominantly light dry malt with dextrose and maltodextrin
They are intended to be used instead of white sugar or dextrose. Recipe ideas can be found here. For more consistent carbonation levels, Coopers Carbonation Drops or normal white sugar should be used for priming the bottles. Coopers Brew Enhancer 2 and 3 may, from time-to-time, present as a hard block. This is caused by the Light Dry Malt component (being extremely hygroscopic) drawing water from the Dextrose within the blend and then setting firm. There is no need to be concerned about this as it is not detrimental to the finished beer. Simply allow the lump or lumps of Brew Enhancer to float about, like icebergs, in the brew – they will dissolve within a few hours. Coopers Carbonation Drops look like boiled lollies and contain the equivalent of 3g of sugar. Use them instead of measuring out white sugar to speed up the bottling process. The drops will dissolve within an hour or so and plume through the brew. There is no need to invert the bottles. Yeast sachets are packaged in readiness for a brew can packaging run. The code on the yeast sachet is a Julian Date Code, representing the date that the yeast was packaged rather than a “Use By” or “Best Before” date.e.g. a sachet with 25019 was packaged on the 7th of September, which is the 250th day of 2019. While the beer kit, containing this yeast sachet, may have been produced on Thursday the 13th of September 2019, carrying a Best Before date of 13/09/21. Coopers DIY Beer brew cans contain hopped liquid malt extract. Even though liquid malt extract is quite stable, it darkens over time and develops toffee/molasses like aromas and flavours. This process is accelerated when temperature is increased. This is not such a bad thing with intentionally dark brews but may be undesirable with lighter styles. If you wish to persist with making up a brew past its Best Before date (out of curiosity or otherwise) it’s worth getting fresh yeast from the Online Store or a Brewing Specialist store to ensure that the brew ferments thoroughly. Yes you can but the balance of the kit must be covered with cling film and stored in the refrigerator for no longer than two weeks. We brew beer, malt extract and beer kit wort in the same way. All worts are boiled and produce hot break, which is then removed in the whirlpool. Rather than being cooled down for fermentation, the malt extract and beer kit worts are centrifuged and transferred to evaporators where all but around 20% of the water is removed. At this stage the malt extract or beer kit wort is packaged then it cools down but does not throw cold break material because the extract is too dense for it to precipitate. Once you add water, the wort becomes thin enough for the break material to precipitate. This break material is completely harmless to the brew and will settle out during fermentation. If boiled the break material may clump together giving the impression, incorrectly, that it is hot break. Boiling a beer kit (hopped malt extract) will only darken the brew and drive off hop aroma. However, if you are following a specific recipe and using additional hops, you may like to boil some of the malt extract to achieve the expected hop utilisation for correct aroma, flavour and bitterness in the finished beer. The figures we quote for bitterness (IBU – International Bitterness Units) are specified for the product inside the can at the time of packaging. Of course, the product is concentrated, hence the seemingly high figures! Use the following formula to estimate a more realistic bitterness figure of the reconstituted and fermented brew. To calculate the bitterness of the brew: Multiply the quoted product bitterness by the weight of the product (1.7kg) and divide by the total brew volume (normally 23 litres). We use the weight because our quoted colour/bitterness figures are based on a 10% weight/volume dilution. Product bitterness x 1.7 / Brew volume = Brew Bitterness before fermentation As an example, if a brew is made with Mexican Cerveza up to a volume of 23 litres: 270 x 1.7 / 23 = 20 IBU (International Bitterness Units) This figure represents the brew bitterness prior to fermentation. Generally, fermentation reduces bitterness by between 10% to 30%. So final bitterness of the fermented brew may be anything from 14 to 18 IBU. The figures we quote for colour (EBC – European Brewery Convention) are specified for the product inside the can at the time of packaging. Of course, the product is concentrated, hence the seemingly high figures! Use the following formula to estimate a more realistic colour figure of the reconstituted and fermented brew. To calculate the colour of the brew: Multiply the quoted product colour by the weight of the product (1.7kg) and divide by the total brew volume (normally 23 litres). We use the weight because our quoted colour/bitterness figures are based on a 10% weight/volume dilution. Product colour x 1.7 / Brew volume = Brew colour As an example, if a brew is made with Mexican Cerveza up to a volume of 23 litres: 53 x 1.7 / 23 = 3.9 EBC Ensure to add the colour contribution of all ingredients together. Colour figures are quoted for liquid extract at the time of packaging as these products will darken with time. The darkening process is accelerated by exposure to elevated temperature. The non-alcoholic version of Coopers Ginger Beer only undergoes a single ferment. This ferment occurs in the bottle while the fermenting tub is used only for mixing the brew. The ferment in the bottle serves to carbonate the brew. Of course, with any fermentation, some alcohol is produced (approx 0.7% ABV) but not enough to be considered as an alcoholic beverage (< 1.15% ABV). Being a primary fermentation, there will be a small deposit around the fill line of the bottle as well as the normal sediment at the bottom. Please note Coopers Ginger Beer has currently been discontinued. We hope to produce this again but no futures date available as yet. The unique code to enter the DIY Beer Brew Kit competition is located under the lid of the brewing extract. If you have any issues entering the competition please email [email protected] Time to Bottle Many brewers don't use a hydrometer and have never had exploding bottles. One day their luck will run out! Brewers Yeast is a living organism and, as such, may perform differently from brew to brew. We recommend the use of a hydrometer for checking that fermentation is complete before bottling. The hydrometer is a simple device which, when floated in a sample, gives an indication of the density of the brew. Two separate samples over 24hrs with the same reading indicates that fermentation is complete (Final Gravity - FG). Once FG is achieved, have a taste and a smell of the brew (an infection is usually a sour taste). If it tastes and smells like beer you can bottle confidently in the knowledge that the correct amount of priming will produce the right amount of fizz with no explosions! For more information, click to watch our how-to-video on, A brew is most at risk of spoilage when the yeast is not active. This may be at the start of the ferment (prior to or just after the yeast is pitched) or at the end of the ferment (when the yeast has sedimented to the bottom of the brew). A brew, fermented with the lid on or clingwrap, should have a protective layer of CO2 gas and may be perfectly fine for several days after fermentation is complete. However, the majority of brewers cannot produce a completely sterile environment for their brew so the longer the brew is left to sit the greater the risk of spoilage. Sample the brew prior to bottling - if it smells like beer and tastes like beer it is probably okay to bottle. Since 2000, Coopers DIY Beer has provided PET bottles as an alternative to glass, because most commercial beer is packaged in single use glass bottles, which are too thin to stand up to the rigours of continual washing and capping. The main advantage to using PET instead of glass is that if the brewer unwittingly bottles infected beer or beer that hasn't finished fermenting, they won't have exploding glass bottles to contend with. PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate, which is the same plastic used to make soft drink (soda pop) bottles. PET bottles are BPA free and recyclable when they eventually need replacing. Our PET bottles have re-usable caps with a tamper evident collar that breaks off after the first use; this does not affect the airtight seal. When the caps eventually wear out, replacement caps can be purchased separately. Note: PET is temperature-sensitive and should not be cleaned using hot water. PET bottles should be triple rinsed with cold water immediately after use and allowed to drain dry. Do not put the cap back on a bottle until it is completely dry. Before refilling, they can be sanitised using a mild bleach solution and rinsed several times - until no chlorine odour is detectable. There are several "no rinse" sanitising products based on phosphoric acid available through specialist stores that are very effective and "water friendly". There are a couple of options open to you when it comes to kegging. If you are in a hurry for the beer (a party on the weekend) and it will be consumed within a couple of months, then artificial carbonation is the best option. Natural conditioning will give you a better beer in our opinion but the conditioning period is much longer (several weeks as opposed to several days). Well made, naturally conditioned beer will last as long in the keg as it does in bottles (at least two years or so). Artificially carbonated beer will deteriorate after a few months. Natural Conditioning Clean and sanitise the keg thoroughly. Prime with sugar at the rate of 4g per litre. Rack via a piece of sanitised, flexible tubing so that the beer runs to the bottom of the keg. Leave 5 – 10 cm of headspace at the top. Seal the keg then invert and give it a shake to mix the sugar and check that the seal is good. Store at 18°C or above for a week, then allow the beer to condition for at least two weeks. Refrigerate for a day or two, momentarily release the keg pressure, then connect the gas at required pouring pressure 35 – 100 kPa, depending on your system. (Fifty litre kegs through a temprite or miracle box may require up to 300 kPa). Artificial Conditioning (Force Carbonating) Clean, sanitise, purge (purge by connecting the CO2 bottle to force the air out of the keg) and rack as per the natural conditioning procedure, without the priming sugar. If you are in a hurry for the beer, seal the keg, pressurise to 300 kPa and shake it about 100 times (for an 18 – 20 litre keg) with the gas connected. If there is no rush or you're not feeling energetic, leave the gas connected with the regulator set at 300 kPa for 2 – 3 days. CO2 will be absorbed more quickly if the beer is refrigerated. Place in the fridge for several days then adjust to pouring pressure. The beer will be drinkable as soon as it is cold, but will improve for several weeks in the fridge. For crystal clear beer, rack into a sanitised, airtight, food grade container (flush with CO2 first) and refrigerate for a week. Once the beer is clear, keg and carbonate artificially. Troubleshooting Degassing the keg over a day or two will usually rectify over-carbonation. Agitate the keg and release the CO2 several times a day until the beer has reached the desired level of carbonation. If the beer is pouring badly but appears to have little or no carbonation, check to ensure that there are no kinks or holes in the beer and gas lines. Contrary to logic, heady beer can be a result of low gas pressure and increasing the pressure via the regulator will often fix the problem. A short beer line may also be the cause of heady beer. Look to use about 3m of 5mmID line, 2m of 4mmID line or an in-line restrictor. A well made DIY Beer, being naturally conditioned in the bottled, can be stored for longer than most commercial beer. Generally speaking, a beer style with higher bitterness, alcohol content and colour lasts longer in the bottle and even benefits with bottle age! A beer such as Mexican Cerveza may be consumed within 6 mths while an Imperial Stout may be successfully stored for several years. We suggest tasting a bottle of each brew periodically to gauge how it's progressing to determine optimum drinking age for your own preferences. Other factors to consider for longevity are the quality of the beer in the first instance, integrity of the pressure vessel and storage temperature (stable and cool). I still use an airlock Many brewers wrongly assume that the yeast is not working because there is no bubbling through the airlock. The airlock is fitted to allow gas to escape and prevent micro-organisms and wild yeasts from entering the fermenter. Do not rely on the airlock as an indicator of fermentation activity. Rather than becoming 'mesmerised' with the airlock, look for condensation inside the lid, a scum ring at the top of the beer, sediment on the bottom, a sample drawn from the tap appears cloudy / turbid / foamy and the specific gravity dropping (use a hydrometer) from day to day. Plenty of foam, although messy, is not a bad thing as it indicates healthy yeast and a strong fermentation. Excess foaming is more likely to occur when using ale yeast with darker brews and higher fermentation temperatures. Also seasonal variations may affect the barley (main ingredient in beer apart from water) causing more foam. To avoid foaming over allow for extra headspace by using a bigger fermenting tub or fill to a lower level (around 18-20 litre mark) then top up with cool boiled water after initial foaming has subsided (normally after a day or two). Don't trust the airlock! A brew may release CO2 gas even though fermentation activity has effectively ceased. The brew is okay to bottle once the specific gravity (measured with a hydrometer) is stable over 2 days. Better Beer Comment – From time to time a Brewer may experience an infected brew. Fact – All non-commercial beer carries some level of infection. Fortunately, infection is only apparent once the off flavours and aromas reach a certain threshold (perceivable level). Some of us are more sensitive to this than others.
- An infected brew may produce the following symptoms –
- Appearance; a scum ring inside the bottle and haziness (not due to yeast)
- Aroma; vinegar, medicinal or solvent smell.
- Taste; sour, sharp or harsh flavour.
- Remedy – clean and sanitise all equipment that will come in contact with the brew to minimise the symptoms of infection.
To clean – Soak equipment in water until caked on residue is softened. Remove residue with a soft cloth and rinse thoroughly. Pay attention to ‘hard to get at’ areas. Remove and clean the tap, particularly the threads. NOTE: Do not use any cleaning aid that may scratch the plastic.
- To sanitise using Unscented Household Bleach – Add ¼ cup of unscented household bleach to the fermenting tub.
- Place all equipment in the fermenting tub, fill with cool water and let soak for at least 30mins.
- Rinse out with hot water to remove all traces of chlorine smell.
- Bottles – Clean bottles may be filled with sanitising solution drained from the fermenting tub, left to soak for a further 30mins then rinsed to remove any trace of chlorine smell and drained.
DO NOT expose Coopers PET bottles and soft drink bottles to hot water. We recommend cracking your malt/grain on brew day or as required. Our simple, no-mess method requires only a zip-lock plastic bag and a rolling pin. Place the malt/grains in the zip-lock bag and seal, lay the bag flat on a bench top (spreading evenly within the bag) and run a rolling pin over the bag.
For best results, do not over fill the bag. As such, it may take a few fills of the bag to crack all the malt/grain. Most brewers find it easier to keep warm (with insulation) rather than cooling their brew because the brew generates heat as it ferments. Non-electrical temperature control Wrap the fermenting tub in a 0ºC-5ºC rated sleeping bag, blankets or an old jacket.
Place the fermenter in a large esky, insulated box, non-working fridge or freezer. Sit the fermenting tub in a laundry tub with frozen PET bottles. Place the fermenter in a cellar or on a cool bare concrete floor. Partially roll a towel and place in the lid of the fermenter, fill the well of the lid with cold water and drape the towel over the side of the fermenter allowing the water to wick down the towel.
- Electrical temperature control Heat pad or heat belt.
- Tea chest, box, cupboard, old fridge etc.
- With a 25W-40W incandescent lamp controlled by a thermostat, dimmer switch or timer switch.
- Place in an air-conditioned room.
- Place in a working fridge or freezer with modified thermostat.
- Place near an inside storage hot water system.
Wet towel method with an electric fan blowing over it. Head retention is adversely affected by the following:
- Glassware has residual detergent or grease.
- Young beer can produce a large foamy head that quickly dies away.
- Too much simple sugar (sucrose or dextrose) in the brew.
- Low carbonation level in the beer.
- A racing ferment due to high temperature.
To check your glassware, get some clear (crystal type) plastic glasses from the supermarket. Pull one straight out of the plastic wrap and place it beside your favourite glass. Fill both with the same brew and compare head retention. Head retention can usually be improved by replacing some of the sugar/dextrose with malt extract.
- This will give the added bonus of extra malt flavour.
- Coopers, encourage DIY brewers to use the yeast from naturally conditioned Coopers ales.
- The same ale strain is used across the range – Mild Ale, Pacific Pale Ale, Original Pale Ale, XPA, Dark Ale, Sparkling Ale, Best Extra Stout and Vintage Ale.
- There are numerous documented techniques, with varying levels of complexity, for re-activating the yeast in naturally conditioned beer.
The method described below may leave some readers, experienced in growing yeast cultures, aghast. “What! No stir plate, no alcohol swabs, no nutrient, no way! However, for Coopers yeast, it works. Method
- Buy a six pack of Coopers Original Pale Ale or Coopers Mild Ale and place upright in the fridge for about a week for the yeast to settle.
- Mix about 600ml of boiling water and 4 tablespoons of Light Dry Malt (60g) in a pyrex jug, cover with cling-wrap and leave to cool in the fridge for about 30mins. If you don’t have Light Dry Malt you can use 4 tablespoons of Sugar (60g), but Light Dry Malt gives the best result.
- Open 4 bottles and decant the beer into a jug, leaving behind the yeast sediment – about a couple of centimetres.
- Pour the sugared water equally into each bottle, cover with cling-wrap and secure with a rubber band.
- Shake the bottles then place them in a dark spot at a temperature in the mid 20’s.
- Give the bottles a shake in the morning and at night to keep the yeast in suspension.
- After around 2 to 3 days the yeast should become active and begin forming a head.
- Pitch the active yeast into a brew immediately or store in the fridge for about a week. Just remember to pull it out of the fridge to warm for couple of hours prior to pitching.
Some additional points to keep in mind;
- start with more yeast by using all 6 bottles,
- buy beer with the freshest yeast (latest “Best After” date),
- lower alcohol content is better (mild ale or pale ale),
- it’s okay to hold the culture at slightly higher temps to promote a quicker reactivation,
- one sanitised vessel (approx 1 litre) may be used rather than separate bottles,
- make sure the culture smells okay before pitching,
- buy another 6 pack for each culture,
- don’t forget to drink the decanted beer,
- use malt extract rather than sugar when re-activating yeast from your own bottles or other commercial brands.
For more information, click to watch our how-to-video on All Coopers DIY Beer recipes can be found in our, For future reference ‘Recipes’ is accessible at the very top of our website on desktop view, or via the main pop-out menu on mobile. Use the dropdown filter to filter recipes by beer style, flavours, volume, ABV, EBC or IBU.
- Easy: Basic brewing, but beautiful beers! Brewing Extract + Fermentable; requires only a can opener, scissors, spoon and water. Or for a little more, an extra ingredient commonly found in the pantry.
- Intermediate: Simple additions to enhance your brews! Introducing hops, herbs and flavourings which are added during or at end of ferment.
- Advanced: For adventurous brewers adding grains and hops will elevate your brews! Grain and hop ingredients typically involve proper handling techniques and extra equipment, prior to mixing.
- Expert: Brew the ultimate DIY Beer! Make up a yeast culture, source your grains or roast your malt – good things take time so you’ll need to be prepared before brew day.
Brewing and Health No, you can’t make non-alcoholic beer with Coopers brewing extracts. However a low alcohol beer, approximately 2.5% ABV, can be made using a 1.7kg extract mixed to 23 litres with no additional sugars. Carbonation Drops (or priming sugar) are still used for secondary fermentation in the bottles.
We recommend consulting with your GP on this topic. Carbohydrates in beer are in the form of alcohol and residual sugars. To reduce the amount of carbohydrates in the brew the amount of fermentable materials in the recipe should be reduced. An enzyme (available at Brewing Specialist stores) can be added to the brew to help the yeast metabolise the sugars more thoroughly.
All Coopers Beer Kits contain malt extract – derived from malted barley – and, as such, are not suitable for gluten intolerant people. : FAQs
Does homemade beer taste good?
There are a few key differences that may influence the perception of which type of beer is better. Homebrewed beer can be fresher than store bought beer since it doesn’t have to go through packaging and shipping. That freshness may improve the flavor considerably.