How Long To Carbonate Beer In Bottle? - Información de la cerveza

Recently while researching home brewing, I read a lot of forum posts. A question that people ask a lot is how long it takes for beer to carbonate in the bottle. I did some reading and found out the answer to this question. How Long Does it Take for Beer to Carbonate in a Bottle? After you have bottled your beer it generally takes 2-3 weeks for the carbonation process to be completed.

This can vary depending on which type of beer you are making but is a good rule of thumb. Make sure you research bottle carbonation times depending on which beer you are brewing. Continue reading as I dive into how to find out how long to carbonate your beer, and what exactly happens in the bottle as it carbonates.

Read Also: What Are The Best Bottles For Homebrewing?

Contents

1 How long does it take bottles of beer to carbonate?
2 How long should beer sit after bottling?
3 Should beer stop bubbling before bottling?
4 Why is my beer foamy but not carbonated?
- 4.1 How do you force carbonate beer in a bottle?
  - 4.1.1 How do you know if beer is carbonated enough?
5 How do you know if a beer bottle is conditioned?
6 Can I ferment beer for 3 weeks?
- 6.1 How long should I force carbonate my beer?
- 6.2 Do you carbonate beer warm or cold?
7 How long should I force carbonate my beer?
- 7.1 How long does it take to CO2 beer?
8 How do you know if beer is carbonating in a bottle?

How long does it take bottles of beer to carbonate?

BOTTLE CONDITIONED BEER – Bottle conditioning is the process of naturally carbonating beer by adding a priming solution (water + some type of sugar ) to the flat beer immediately before bottling to initiate a “re-fermentation” in the bottle. The CO2 produced from the re-fermentation in the beer bottle is absorbed into the beer, creating carbonation.

The amount of carbonation in the finished beer can be controlled by adjusting the amount of priming sugar in the priming solution. After priming and filling, the newly bottled beer should be stored at 70-75F for 2-3 weeks or until fully carbonated. After this time the bottles can be chilled or stored below 60 degrees to stabilize the beer.

Bottle conditioning also has an effect on the flavor and aroma of the beer due to the presence of active yeast in the bottle. The yeast in the bottle is able to reabsorb or process byproducts from fermentation eventually rounding out or mellowing the flavors.

How long should beer sit after bottling?

When Do I Get to Drink My Beer? – After you bottle the beer, give it at least two weeks before drinking it, The yeast needs a few days to actually consume the sugar, and then a little more time is needed for the beer to absorb the carbon dioxide. (Read this post to learn about the science behind carbonation,) The beer also goes through a bit of “bottle shock” right after bottling.

Why did my beer not carbonate in the bottle?

When a batch of beer fails to carbonate in your bottle or keg there are a few common causes. Stressed Yeast After fermentation, the beer yeast cells that remain in solution may be too stressed or too few to restart fermentation in the bottle. The likelihood of this happening increases with the length of secondary fermentation and the alcoholic strength of the beer.

To ensure proper re-fermentation, additional yeast can be added to the beer at bottling.
You can use a fresh pack of the original yeast or use a neutral fermenting dry yeast such as the Danstar Nottingham ale yeast ( Y005 ).
Temperature Another common cause for lack of fermentation is storing the bottles and kegs in too cool an environment during conditioning.

At cooler temperatures, the remaining yeast will not be able to restart fermentation. Make sure the beer vessels are stored above 65F until the beer is fully carbonated. For more information on temperature and beer pressure, take a look at our carbonation chart,

Sometimes warming the bottles and rousing the yeast from the bottom of the bottle get the process started.
If that doesn’t work you may have to resort to dosing each bottle with a small amount of dry yeast after opening and then recapping the bottles.
Improper Seal Forgetting to add priming sugar and not getting a good seal with the bottle cap or keg lid can be another reason for lack of carbonation.

The easiest solution to these problems is to dose each bottle with additional sugar. The best way to do this is to open each bottle and add the pre-measured conditioning tabs to each bottle. Only dose with more sugar if you are sure that you forgot to add priming sugar or that the caps had a bad seal, otherwise the extra sugar can result in too much carbonation.

How long does bottle conditioning carbonation take?

Bottle Conditioning — The Establishment Brewing Company Force carbonation is pretty much the status quo in the brewing industry; a speedy way to package beer, saving tank space and time. There are few breweries around the world these days that carbonate/condition in the final package. At The Establishment, we bottle condition all of our barrel-aged beers because there are some interesting benefits to naturally carbonated/conditioned beer.

Beer is carbonated in a modern brewery typically by force after fermentation and maturation is complete.
To force carbonate beer the brewer injects it with CO2 in a large stainless maturation tank, and in a matter of hours the beer is ready for final packaging (cans, kegs, or bottles).
There is certainly nothing wrong with forced carbonation for most beer styles, in fact, the majority of the beers we make at The Establishment are force carbonated.

Bottle conditioning is a more traditional method of carbonating beer. At The Establishment, we bottle condition all of our barrel-aged beers because we find it sets the stage for a more nuanced and ever-evolving product. Once beer is transferred into our barrels, it is introduced to a live mixed-culture of wild yeast, Brettanomyces, and/or acid producing bacteria, Pediococcus and Lactobacillus (yes, the same bacteria in your probiotic yogurt). At this point the beer is almost still (uncarbonated). In order to carbonate the beer, the brewer (me!) adds a measured amount of sugar, and sometimes additional healthy yeast during the bottling process. The microorganisms present in the beer ferment the additional sugar, producing the alcohol we enjoy, and a bit of CO2 – in a similar process to making bread, sauerkraut, or fermented pickles.

Fun-fact – Next time you’re in the taproom, watch the airlocks on top of the barrels carefully you’ll see CO2 occasionally escaping through the airlocks during the long fermentation that occurs within each barrel.
During bottle conditioning the bottle is sealed with a cap, the pressure increases in the bottle, and the CO2 produced dissolves into the beer.

This process takes anywhere from two weeks to two months or sometimes longer. That said, carbonation isn’t the only thing that happens in the bottle, and this is especially exciting when living microbes are present in the final package. The microbes in the bottled beer (yeast, wild yeast, and sometimes bacteria) will continue to create lactic acid (the sourness we love), as well as transforming existing flavours into new esters (aromatic compounds) in the bottle, some of which were never originally present in the beer before bottling.

In a bottle-conditioned mixed-culture beer, the beer is very much alive and in a state of flux.
From a brewer’s perspective this is both extremely fun, and also very challenging.
Sometimes unwanted flavours can arise in the early stages of bottle conditioning (THP/tetrahydropyridine, diacetyl, acetaldehyde, etc).

These unwanted flavours and aromas are transformed by the live cultures in the bottle and disappear over time, so while we aren’t too worried about those in the early stages, it does make it hard for us to predict when these beers will be ready to release to the public. If you’ve been in the taproom and asked “When will the next barrel-aged beer be ready?!” we probably told you “We’re aren’t quite sure, we hope soon?”. That’s because we don’t really knowthe beer tells us when it is ready. This is a big part of what makes these beers unique; we are truly at the mercy of the cultures in the bottle. We can never predict exactly what will come of these beers as they age over time, but we can predict with great certainty that they will change. Fruit flavours and aromas evolve, dissipate, and transform. The rustic or funky character of the beer will often increase with age, the bitterness can become lower, and the carbonation may increase slightly, and all of this depends on how you store the beer.

Ideal aging conditions are away from light and at a cool and stable temperature (10-15C), but if you have to keep it in a fridge or in your basement that’s better than on top of your kitchen cabinets next to your stove.
The beer may taste different month to month, season to season, year to year, and that’s part of the journey.

We’re stoked to have you along for the ride. : Bottle Conditioning — The Establishment Brewing Company

What happens if I bottle beer too early?

What Happens if You Drink Homebrew Too Early? – If you are a first-time homebrewer, the urge to drink right away is strong, and even seasoned brewers sometimes battle with patience. You want to taste the fresh homebrew as soon as possible. However, the wait is always worth it in the end.

If you drink homebrew too early, you will get the green beer taste. It’s the flat taste of young or premature beer that wasn’t given enough time to condition properly in the bottle. The green beer taste is flat and sometimes bitter, as the flavors are yet to dissolve completely and blend with the beer in the maturation/conditioning process.

The green beer taste isn’t the only off-taste you’ll experience when you drink your homebrew too early. When drinking just after bottling, you may sometimes pick sulphuric flavors and other harsh notes that will disappear after a few weeks. This might lead you to think your beer is infected and is the reason for the horrible taste, but it’s just the beer demanding,

Does beer taste better after bottling?

Taste – When it comes to beer, taste is the number one concern at Sprecher. So does beer taste better from cans or bottles? The answer is, neither. Beer tastes better when poured into a glass. Our perception of flavor relies on a combination of senses–taste, smell, mouthfeel, sight, and possibly even sound (consider the satisfying sound of a can opening).

When you drink from a can or a bottle, your nose misses the beer completely, and you cannot see the color of the beer, admire the foamy head, or listen to the sound of rising bubbles during a good pour.
Put a beer in a proper glass, and you are getting the full sensory experience.
Plus, who doesn’t love drinking beer from a hefty stein or a classy snifter? It just elevates the experience.

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Still, you’re not always going to have a glass handy. So how do bottles and cans compare on taste? Some complain that canned beer tastes metallic. However, brewers started lining their beer cans with food-safe plastic to prevent metallic off-taste in the 1930s, and they haven’t stopped since.

If you are tasting metal, it’s because you’re smelling the can.
So stop doing that, it’s weird! Bottles have a different taste problem.
Unlike cans, bottles let a little light in.
When UV light from the sun hits beer, it can cause chemical changes that result in an unpleasant taste.
The term for the resulting product is–I kid you not–skunky beer (or ‘lightstruck beer’ if you’re a nerd).

Brown bottles provide pretty good protection, followed by green bottles, with clear bottles obviously being the worst of all (sorry, Zima). Brown bottles are all well and good, but no glass provides better protection from skunkiness than a can. The verdict on taste: as long as you are not a can-sniffer, cans win out on taste. Beer tastes better in a glass–doesn’t that look delicious?

Should beer stop bubbling before bottling?

Has my beer stopped fermenting? This is a common question that crops up amongst new brewers waiting expectantly on their first or second batch of beer. Fortunately it’s an easy question to answer -and a good opportunity to learn what happens during fermentation as well as a bit about using hydrometers.

Read on! Firstly it’s a good idea to know what to expect of a fermenting batch of beer.
Most of us know that there should be some vigorous bubbling from the airlock (much to the amusement of family members), and a thick head of yeast on top of the beer.
This will slow down and eventually subside after a few days, signifying that the time for bottling is soon approaching.

But what is really going on under that lid? To understand what’s really happening in the fermenter we need to understand the basics of what our yeast get up to. These friendly fungi are the ones actually making our beer for us at this point, so their habits and happiness is worth understanding.

When pitched to the fermenter, the yeast first acclimatise to their new environment and begin to multiply many times over.
The yeast use oxygen during this reproductive phase and this is the reason that brewers shake the fermenter vigorously for several minutes to oxygenate the wort before pitching the yeast.

The yeast do not yet make any alcohol or carbon dioxide at this early stage -they are far too busy populating the contents of the fermenter! This quiet start is referred to as the lag phase and is where we expectantly wait for 12-24 hours for the yeast population to grow, and then begin on the important (and rowdy) task of producing alcohol! Well that’s pretty simple- but you guessed correctly that if the wort is not oxygenated the yeast won’t be able to multiply.

This can happen if a brewer forgets to oxygenate or doesn’t shake the fermenter quite enough ( 4-5 minutes is best),
Another important factor is just how much yeast is pitched.
A left over half sachet from a few months ago is not going to get the job done! There need to be enough healthy, viable yeast to get off to a strong start populating the wort.

Too few simply cannot multiply enough times. So.always pitch a full rehydrated yeast sachet. The lag phase will be short and the yeast happy and plentiful! The next phase is the vigorous conversion of sugars to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The yeast have run out of oxygen and now turn to sugar for sustenance.

They can survive without oxygen and enter a new phase known as ‘anaerobic’ (without oxygen).
The yeast now produce alcohol, flavour compounds called esters and phenols, and work their way through the sugar.
The carbon dioxide simultaneously produces a large head of yeasty froth on top of the beer and signifies the peak of fermentation.

This busy and productive time is also commonly called ‘primary fermentation’ and is essentially when the magic happens and the young beer is created. Once the primary fermentation has begun in earnest there is not too much that can dissuade the yeast from quitting-excepting really cold conditions- below 16C say.

As a general rule the cooler temperatures result in slower (and perhaps less energetic) primary fermentation times and warmer faster. Often this stage is over very quickly- two to three days is not uncommon with 4-7 being average. But it’s not quite over yet. The last phase of fermentation is where our original question usually arises.

Is the beer almost ready? -What is it doing now?-Should I bottle it this weekend? I’m getting thirsty! After the initial crescendo of primary fermentation, the beer can look like it has completed its job. This is not at all true though. The young beer has now entered its last important phase known as secondary fermentation.

At this point the yeast are still consuming any remaining sugars- though at a much slower rate – and also consuming by-products of the primary phase. The yeast is finishing the job thoroughly and also cleaning up after itself! With the sugar almost gone, the yeast finds and breaks down various other compounds which later affect the finished flavour of the beer.

You could see it a gradual finishing or pre- maturation phase. Once the yeast has exhausted its supply of food it begins to go dormant. It clumps together and drops to the bottom of the fermenter, eventually leaving the beer clear(a process called flocculation) English brewers refer to this as the beer ‘dropping bright’,Depending on the yeast this can happen quite quickly or sometimes take a while.

The fermentation is essentially now over, and the beer is beginning to mature.
So is my beer ready? Typically, yes, but let’s look at some important time frames and scenarios.
Being aware of variables is what is important now.
Most advice to home brewers suggests a total fermentation time of 12-14 days.

This is assuming a ‘textbook brew’ with plenty of healthy yeast and fermentation at a suitable temperature ( 17C-24C ). Generally things work out fine within this timeframe and temperature range. The beer is then bottled, undergoes carbonation from a small secondary fermentation (from added priming sugar) and then has a week or three to mature before drinking.

Now that you have a general idea of what’s going on under the lid let’s quickly look at how a hydrometer can help us measure the yeast’s progress, and help calculate the alcohol content of our finished beer. A hydrometer is a useful floating measure that will sink lower or float higher depending on how much dissolved sugar is in our beer.

Most brewers take a gravity reading just before the yeast is pitched, and then again before bottling. As the yeast consumes the sugar, the hydrometer readings will gradually drop (as the hydrometer floats lower). Generally, taking a reading during fermentation is quite unnecessary if things are progressing normally.

Remember, frequently opening your fermenter exposes the contents to bacteria and wild yeast, though if you have a side tap this is a bit less of an issue.
There is a good bit of common advice that if one takes a reading for a few consecutive days and gets the same results, the yeast has finished the work –though again this typically this isn’t necessary unless you really aren’t sure.

Measuring the alcohol content is done by taking (and writing down!) a gravity reading just prior to fermentation called the Original Gravity (shortened to O.G.), and then, at the end of fermentation the Final Gravity (F.G.). The F.G.is subtracted from the O.G.

And multiplied by 0.129 to give the Alcohol by Volume (the same %ABV we see on our commercial beer and wine bottles). Here are three examples of some typical strengths of beer, beginning with an average strength. Average: O.G.1.048 F.G.1.011.1.048-1.011=0.037 37 X 0.129=4.77% A.B.V. Light : O.G.1.034 F.G.1.008 1.034-1.008=0.026 26 X 0.129=3.35% A.B.V.

Strong : O.G.1.069 F.G.1.014 1.069-1.014=0.055 55 X 0.129=7.09% A.B.V In another post I will take a more detailed look at using a hydrometer, but that’s a useful start for now! To round up, let’s quickly look at where a fermentation cycle can go astray, take too long or just seem wrong – and why.

By now you now have a pretty clear idea of the fermentation phases happening inside fermenter as well as some of the possible pitfalls. Here’s a set of easy ‘Best case’ versus ‘Concerned! ‘scenarios to help you! The lag phase: Best case scenario: A full sachet of rehydrated yeast s pitched and begins to ferment (bubbling airlock) after 6-12 hours (or even sooner).

The temperature is within target range specified on sachet (or manufacturer’s website)The wort was vigorously shaken and splashed to aerate it thoroughly. A light froth begins to form on the beer. The lag phase. Concerned! : After 24 hours nothing is happening or there is only very occasional bubbling from the airlock.

Check that the airlock is properly secured- often a slight leak in the airlock’s grommet seal stops it from bubbling as the CO2 is escaping around it.17C to 24C is your ballpark. A quick peak in the fermenter may reveal an actively fermenting beer! Is the fermenter sitting in an icy winter garage or is the temperature really low? Keep the fermenter in a warm enough room.17C to 24C is your ballpark. Did you aerate enough (or possibly forget)? If not, do so immediately- it should help get things going. Under-pitching(not enough) yeast will also slow things down considerably. Consider pitching more yeast. Slow bubbling does mean something is happening – often it will simply get going properly in another few hours. If you have checked through the variables, grab a beer and don’t worry.

Primary Fermentation: Best case scenario: A rocky head of yeast forms on the beer and the airlock is happily bubbling away. Regular bubbling slows right down after three to six days (sometimes sooner), A foam line can be visible from the high ‘krausen’ on some fermenters.

Cold temperatures are your main cause for concern here if the other factors like yeast and aeration have been checked. Move the fermenter to a warmer area. Warm temperature and a low gravity beer can lead to very quick fermentations- as short as 2-3 days. Primary fermentation may have already taken place.

Secondary fermentation. Best case scenario: The airlock slows down to a very occasional bubble. The surface of the beer clears with a few light patches of thin foam here and there. Many brewers use the airlock as an indicator at this point-once activity stops completely the beer is done.

This works pretty well, just be aware that a very cold spell can also make your yeast go temporarily dormant! At this stage the beer begins to clear of yeast, and after a few days the yeast should have formed a thick visible layer at the bottom and the beer cleared. At this time you can bottle within a few days or let it mature for another week or so if you do not have time.

Remember; two to three weeks are the best length of time to wait before bottling. Secondary fermentation. Concerned! : The beer smells ‘off’ or the airlock is persistently bubbling.

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A bad smell (and there are many kinds!) or a visible growth on top of the beer means that wild yeast and/or bacteria have got in and wreaked havoc. Pay more attention to sanitizing. It’s not common, but it does sometimes happen-quite often more in summer or autumn when there is a lot of wild yeast floating around. A ‘green apple’ smell is normal for young beer, and a light sulphur smell is also known with some yeast strains. A persistent fermentation can mean two things. Most probably the yeast is simply taking longer to get the job done or, less likely, wild yeast and bacteria have taken residence. Most likely it is the strain of yeast that is simply taking a little longer than usual. If in doubt have a sniff in the fermenter. It should smell initially of carbon dioxide followed by a clean beer/hoppy/slight green apple aroma. If in doubt, a gravity reading will help.

With a little experience and the information here, you will soon always know when your beer is ready. And it’s a very satisfying thing to know too-good luck with your brews! This article is copyright and used with exclusive permission to Beerlab. Nick Birkby 2013 : Has my beer stopped fermenting?

Why is my beer foamy but not carbonated?

Foamy Beer Tap: How To Fix It There are many reasons you may be getting a lot of foam coming out your tap. Without being there to see your system setup and what you are doing it’s very difficult for us to give an answer as to why it might be. We’ve tried to cover the main ones below, along with what you can do about them.

Under carbonated – strange but true, if you are getting a lot of foam but it is flat when you taste it your drink may be under carbonated – let it sit for a day or so at the pressures recommended on, Over carbonated – if you are getting a lot of foam and the drink has carbonation when you taste it it may be over carbonated. You can adjust it by releasing some pressure, letting it sit for an hour then releasing some more pressure. Then set the regulator to the level recommended in the table on the to get the correct level. A warm glass or tap – Often the 1st pour will be foamy as the cold liquid with lots of dissolved CO2 loses the CO2 when it hits a warm surface like the inside of a tap or a glass. Keep your glass in the fridge or cool it with water before pouring if it’s warm. Keep your tap in the fridge if possible (like with our mini kegs), ensure any liquid lines outside a fridge are well insulated and ensure a font fan is blowing cold air inside the font to cool it if you have a bar top font. Pouring onto foam causes more foam – You will often see the bar tender at a bar put the glass under the tap after only a bit of beer has come through the tap and gone into the drip tray or they will pour out the bit in the glass if it is foamy before starting again. This is because if you have some foamy beer in the glass it causes the rest to foam as it pours onto it. Better to waste the first 30mls than have a whole glass of froth! Not enough beer line – Beer line is measured depending on it’s internal diameter. We provide minimum 1.5m of 4mm internal beer line with our kegerator packages etc as this is the length needed to slow the liquid enough that it pours well when it reaches the tap, if you cut it short and don’t have a flow control tap it will pour to quickly and cause foaming. Too much pressure – If your pressure is set too high the beer will flow too fast and cause it to be agitated and foamy when it pours. If you have a flow control tap or a kegerator with correct length lines you should set your pressure at the recommended one from the, Too little pressure – If your keg has too little pressure in it it will cause the dissolved CO2 to free itself from the liquid. This causes gas bubbles in the beer lines or tap. If you can see bubbles in your beer line this is a likely cause. Your beer may also be pouring heady but flat as it is becoming under carbonated due to not enough pressure to keep it carbonated. Beer hasn’t settled – If your keg has just been filled from a tap, then driven home, carried inside and plonked on the table it has been shaken, agitated and been through temperature changes. It will pour foamy unless you let it sit for at least 30min. We had someone wonder why their 50L keg was pouring foamy after rolling it from the pub to car, car to a speed boat, boat to party on an island and then tried to tap it 15min later. An interruption in the flow – This is something more equipment based you can look for if you think everything above is correct. A rough edge inside a hose where it was cut, a steel burr inside a tap etc. will interrupt the smooth flow of liquid and can make it pour foamy

: Foamy Beer Tap: How To Fix It

How do you force carbonate beer in a bottle?

How to Overcome Inconsistent Bottle Carbonation The bottle you had last night was perfectly carbonated, the one you just opened was totally flat, and the one you’re about to open will gush all over the floor. When this happens, it’s time to take a closer look at your priming method.

The most common way to carbonate homebrew in bottles is to “prime” each bottle with a small dose of sugar.
Yeast consumes this sugar and releases carbon dioxide, which, since the bottle is sealed, dissolves into the beer.
The most popular way to introduce that sugar into a batch of homebrewed beer is to mix up a solution of dextrose (also called corn sugar) and water and add it to the bottling bucket as you rack the beer from secondary.

If this is the method you follow, then there are a few steps of the process to examine.

How do you know if beer is carbonated enough?

This is possible, but not in a scientifically measurable way. Try this:

Hold one of your bottles of beer up to the light so you can see the air gap that expands from the top of the bottle down to the top of the beer in the bottle.
Quickly turn the bottle upside down then back again, with a slight amount of force, but no need to shake it.
Observe the air gap in the bottle and notice the amount, if any, of bubbles forming at the top of the beer. If the beer is lighter in color, also notice the bubbles floating to the top.
Through trial and error, I have found this method to be fairly accurate in predicting the level of carbonation in a bottle, but as I said, it’s not something you can measure.

You can compare store bought beer bottles to get an idea of what to look for, but keep in mind that different styles yield different levels of carbonation. answered Mar 6, 2014 at 22:20 Matthew Matthew 902 1 gold badge 12 silver badges 16 bronze badges 1

awesome suggestion! I love it! Mar 15, 2014 at 16:32

No. If you are that dire for things to happen quickly fill one plastic bottle each time you bottle. It will be firm once the beer is carbed. You can simply re-use 16-20oz soda bottles for this, or buy plastic beer bottles with screw on caps. answered Dec 13, 2010 at 12:26 brewchez brewchez 36.2k 9 gold badges 62 silver badges 136 bronze badges 4

I had no clue that it was possible just to use plastic soda bottles. That is a good idea. My local home brew store does not carry plastic bottles, so this a good way to go. I’ll definitely try this. Dec 13, 2010 at 21:45
@CLJ: It really isn’t an option for ALL of your homebrew. Everything I’ve read has said to avoid plastic as much as possible, let alone for the bottling/conditioning process. This is for two reasons: (1) plastic tends to scratch, leaving places for unwanted microbes to live and survive your sanitizing step, (2) the slow ramp up of pressure would likely cause the bottles to explode. My initial feeling is that the bottles would simply be impossible to sanitize the the degree required for an unspoiled beer, thus the “fill one” bottle statement. – EDWF Dec 15, 2010 at 17:27
brewchez may correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the point of the suggestion to fill one plastic bottle is to treat that bottle only as a gauge of carbonation, and to throw away the contents once you are satisfied that the batch is carbonated. Dec 20, 2010 at 1:27
I’ve been using plastic better bottles for primary and secondary fermentation since I started homebrewing and I have yet to get an infection.I am an over-sanitizer with a spray bottle in my holster at every step. Plastic bottles of soda or water should be more than sufficient for this, and I don’t think you’ll need to dump it out either unless you have the habit of sticking sharp things inside the plastic bottle prior to filling it with beer. Mar 6, 2014 at 22:08

A time test is your best bet. Bottle carbonation should be pretty mechanical unless you’re experimenting with conditioning yeasts. If you’re not doing anything fancy with the carbonation, it should be safe to assume that your beer is done carbonating after two weeks. answered Dec 12, 2010 at 23:32 PMV PMV 3,799 4 gold badges 27 silver badges 32 bronze badges 4

yeah, but I don’t want to wait that long. Dec 12, 2010 at 23:53
@CLJ – then homebrewing might not be the best hobby for you; patience is key Dec 12, 2010 at 23:54
@CLJ- Start kegging if you can’t wait for bottle conditioning. Dec 13, 2010 at 12:25
@CLJ: brew more. Then when you’re waiting for one batch to carb up you can drink your older batches. They key is to keep yourself waist deep in delicious beer! Dec 13, 2010 at 13:36

I usually wait a couple weeks then look for trub in the bottom of the bottle. If it’s there, the yeast finished the job. answered Dec 13, 2010 at 16:27 Mike Mike 308 1 silver badge 8 bronze badges 2

Wait a couple weeks – yes. But sediment at the bottom of the bottle only indicates that yeast have fallen out of suspension, and doesn’t necessarily say anything about the carbonation. An uncarbonated bottle could have trub, and vice-versa. Dec 13, 2010 at 21:34
However, no trub means you aren’t bottle conditioning and should be able to know explicitly how much CO2 you put in. 🙂 – EDWF Dec 15, 2010 at 17:33

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I often open one after a few days, and then I’ll often open one every day or two after that. I find it interesting to see how it changes in the 2-3 weeks while it’s carbonating. How many bottles are in the batch? Is it a big deal if you lose a few before they were completely ready? Another thing you can do is determine the carbonation level roughly by the noise and feel of removing the cap. Jeff Roe Jeff Roe 2,819 1 gold badge 22 silver badges 33 bronze badges 1

I’m doing 5 gallon batches, so loosing one is not a big deal, but if I could prevent it, I would. Dec 13, 2010 at 21:43

When I brew, I usually will do a number of mini bottles. Like the OP, I’m not one for patience. 🙂 This allows me to have test bottles with minimal waste. answered Dec 16, 2010 at 17:36 I combine the bubbles and yeast idea. Observation is a scientific approach. If you turn it upside down quickly and make some bubbles, there is definitely co2 released by the yeast. Oxygen alone may produce a little amount of bubles, but co2 bubles rushes up for a few seconds.

You may notice a bit of this activity after the 1 week and it should be doubled in week 2.
At the same time, even when the yeast at the bottom may only means the end of it’s suspension it also means that the sugar frenzy was over and now yeast rest in peace.
Also be patient and wait 2-3 weeks,that is part of the craftsmanship of making beer.

Also, take notes of all the steps you’ve made during the process so you can share in a forum what you did exactly and by looking at the later you may also figure out what went wrong. answered Feb 20, 2019 at 11:58

How do you know if a beer bottle is conditioned?

The most accurate way to tell if bottle carbonation is complete when using glass bottles is to look at the bottom of the bottle. Check to see if the sediment has formed. If the sediment has formed, it is most likely that conditioning is complete.

Can I ferment beer for 3 weeks?

If you are a homebrewer and have been concerned with just letting your beer batch sit in primary or secondary fermentation, this blog post will give you an answer to how long you can let it sit for without any issues. How Long Can I Leave My Beer in the Fermenter? Among most homebrewing enthusiast it is generally considered ill-advised to leave your beer for more than 4 weeks in primary or secondary fermentation.

How long should I force carbonate my beer?

Set and Forget – The easiest and most reliable method of force carbonating a keg normally takes around 2 weeks to fully carbonate. While it takes a while, it guarantees that you’ll hit the exact level of carbonation you require. Typically, you’ll hook up your co2 to the keg, set the regulator at serving pressure, between 8–12 psi, and let it slowly carbonate over the course of 2 weeks or so.

Do you carbonate beer warm or cold?

Beer Carbonating Chart This Keg Carbonation Chart (at the bottom of the page) is designed to help you decide what pressure to set your kegs at depending on the temperature that they are at, and what style of beer is in them. Two Methods of Force Carbonating Beer When carbonating there are basically 2 main ways of force carbonating.

How long should I force carbonate my beer?

How long does it take to CO2 beer?

The Slow Method – Use this force carbonation table to determine where to set the CO2 on the regulator and wait. The pressure from the tank will slowly infuse the beer with CO2. In anywhere between 2-14 days depending on the amount of carbonation desired your beer will be ready. Chill the keg, lower the gas supply to a 5psi “serving” setting and spew out delicious brew to your guests.

How do you know if beer is carbonating in a bottle?

This is possible, but not in a scientifically measurable way. Try this:

Hold one of your bottles of beer up to the light so you can see the air gap that expands from the top of the bottle down to the top of the beer in the bottle.
Quickly turn the bottle upside down then back again, with a slight amount of force, but no need to shake it.
Observe the air gap in the bottle and notice the amount, if any, of bubbles forming at the top of the beer. If the beer is lighter in color, also notice the bubbles floating to the top.
Through trial and error, I have found this method to be fairly accurate in predicting the level of carbonation in a bottle, but as I said, it’s not something you can measure.

awesome suggestion! I love it! Mar 15, 2014 at 16:32

I had no clue that it was possible just to use plastic soda bottles. That is a good idea. My local home brew store does not carry plastic bottles, so this a good way to go. I’ll definitely try this. Dec 13, 2010 at 21:45
@CLJ: It really isn’t an option for ALL of your homebrew. Everything I’ve read has said to avoid plastic as much as possible, let alone for the bottling/conditioning process. This is for two reasons: (1) plastic tends to scratch, leaving places for unwanted microbes to live and survive your sanitizing step, (2) the slow ramp up of pressure would likely cause the bottles to explode. My initial feeling is that the bottles would simply be impossible to sanitize the the degree required for an unspoiled beer, thus the “fill one” bottle statement. – EDWF Dec 15, 2010 at 17:27
brewchez may correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the point of the suggestion to fill one plastic bottle is to treat that bottle only as a gauge of carbonation, and to throw away the contents once you are satisfied that the batch is carbonated. Dec 20, 2010 at 1:27
I’ve been using plastic better bottles for primary and secondary fermentation since I started homebrewing and I have yet to get an infection.I am an over-sanitizer with a spray bottle in my holster at every step. Plastic bottles of soda or water should be more than sufficient for this, and I don’t think you’ll need to dump it out either unless you have the habit of sticking sharp things inside the plastic bottle prior to filling it with beer. Mar 6, 2014 at 22:08

yeah, but I don’t want to wait that long. Dec 12, 2010 at 23:53
@CLJ – then homebrewing might not be the best hobby for you; patience is key Dec 12, 2010 at 23:54
@CLJ- Start kegging if you can’t wait for bottle conditioning. Dec 13, 2010 at 12:25
@CLJ: brew more. Then when you’re waiting for one batch to carb up you can drink your older batches. They key is to keep yourself waist deep in delicious beer! Dec 13, 2010 at 13:36

Wait a couple weeks – yes. But sediment at the bottom of the bottle only indicates that yeast have fallen out of suspension, and doesn’t necessarily say anything about the carbonation. An uncarbonated bottle could have trub, and vice-versa. Dec 13, 2010 at 21:34
However, no trub means you aren’t bottle conditioning and should be able to know explicitly how much CO2 you put in. 🙂 – EDWF Dec 15, 2010 at 17:33

I’m doing 5 gallon batches, so loosing one is not a big deal, but if I could prevent it, I would. Dec 13, 2010 at 21:43

You may notice a bit of this activity after the 1 week and it should be doubled in week 2. At the same time, even when the yeast at the bottom may only means the end of it’s suspension it also means that the sugar frenzy was over and now yeast rest in peace. Also be patient and wait 2-3 weeks,that is part of the craftsmanship of making beer.

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