How Long Does Beer Fermentation Take?

The short answer is that, on average, it takes about four hours to brew beer, one to two weeks to ferment and condition, two hours to package in bottles, and one to two weeks to naturally carbonate in bottles.

Can you ferment beer in 3 days?

I see fermentation duration questions a lot in forums and homebrewing Facebook groups. It’s not necessarily a one-size-fits-all answer, but there are simple guidelines to follow, especially if you want to err on the side of caution. Beer fermentation time is largely dependent on the beer style.

1. Just to preface this article, a beer’s time to ferment versus time spent in a fermentation vessel are two separate questions with different answers.
2. The short answer: Although most ales ferment in 2-5 days, I always recommend you wait at least 2 weeks before moving to bottles/kegs for the best results.

Lagers on the other hand ferment in 2-3 weeks followed by several weeks or even months to condition. Lagers require a much more rigorous and extended fermentation schedule. Lagers also ferment at much cooler temps (45-55°F.) I’ll be honest, I’ve never actually brewed a lager because I don’t really drink them.

What does healthy fermentation look like?

This is a question that we get quite often so we wanted to provide some information so you can tell if your brew is good or not. When you are new to brewing the first time you see the fermentation process it can look a little crazy. Each batch you brew will behave and ferment differently than the batch before, so it is possible that your fermentation will always look different.

• Some people will dump perfectly good beer thinking it has an infection when it does not.
• So before you decide whether your beer is a dumper, you will want to visually inspect and possibly even taste it to make sure it’s still worth keeping or not.
• So let’s talk about what fermentation looks like.
• During fermentation you will get foamy bubbles on the top of your beer, this is called krausen and is perfectly normal for brewing.

Depending on the batch that you are brewing you may get a very high krausen or a low krausen. Some beers might now show much of krausen at all. This all depending on what you are brewing, the ingredients you are using, temperature, etc. One way to always check for fermentation is to see if you have any trub build up on the bottom of the fermenter.

• If you do, then your good to go.
• So just remember that all fermentations will not look the same.
• Okay so now onto how to spot an infection.
• An oily sheen on top of your beer that may look kind of like thin white ice sheets with jagged edges is a sign of the beginning of an infection.
• This infection is usually caused by wild yeast such as Brettanomyces or wild bacteria such as lactobacillus.

In some cases, it could be a combination of these or other bacteria/wild yeast. In more advanced infections, this layer of biofilm called a “pellicle” may look very wavy, sort of like ramen noodles. Or it may look like bubbles with webbing coming off it.

These are different types of infections, but they are caused by similar bacteria/yeast strains. A pellicle is only formed in the presence of oxygen and is a way for the wild yeast/bacteria top protect itself from oxygen because they prefer an anaerobic environment. So you can still have an infection even without the pellicle formation if your beer was free of oxygen exposure during fermentation.

In this case, the only way to know whether it is infected or not is to taste it. Don’t worry about getting sick because none of these wild bacteria, yeast or mold can harm you. If the beer tastes bad or rancid, you might wanna dump it. But in some cases, an infection can result in a pretty good tasting beer.

Keep in mind that sour beers, which are all the rage right now, are brewed with these wild yeasts and bacteria. If you are brewing with our LBK and you consistently get infections it is possible that it got into some small scratches or the plastic of the fermenter. In this case, we would recommend replacing your fermenter with a new one.

If your beer is infected with mold, which will be fuzzy and discolored (usually green but can be white or brownish – but always fuzzy), this can typically be skimmed off the beer. Mold only grows on the surface and will not penetrate the beer itself. Mold cannot survive the alcohol in beer.

1. Fortunately, mold usually takes a long time to grow on beer so as long as you’re not leaving it in the fermenter for too long, you shouldn’t have this issue.
2. Proper cleaning/sanitizing, and the proper care of your plastic equipment (only soft cloths for cleaning, nothing that can scratch the plastic) will help prevent these types of infection.

But always keep in mind that even with the best cleaning and sanitizing procedures in place, you can still get infections from time to time. Don’t let this discourage you. Learn from it and keep brewing.

Why is my homebrew not bubbling after 2 days?

Lack of airlock activity is NOT an absolute sign of a failed fermentation. – NOTE : The only way to confirm fermentation, or lack there-of, is to use a hydrometer. This requires 30 seconds of your life to either confirm or dispel signs of fermentation.

1. Ask staff in store how this works.
2. READ ON : Brewing Problem: I added the yeast 2 days ago and nothing is happening with my airlock.
3. Cause 1 Leaks: Lack of a physical sign of fermentation (airlock bubbling) can be due to several things.
4. If the airlock is not bubbling, it may be due to a poor seal between the lid and the bucket or leaks around the grommet.

Fermentation may be taking place but the CO2 is not coming out through the airlock. This can also be caused by adding too much water to the airlock. If this has occurred, the resistance caused by the excess water will cause air to escape by pushing around the rubber seals. Cure 1: This is not a real problem; it won’t affect the batch. – Check water levels in the airlock (3mm maximum past the U bend on each side is ample), screw down the lid a bit tighter if necessary or Fix the seal. NOTE: Airlocks are designed to keep flies and bugs out of your brew, and so carbon dioxide formed during fermentation can escape.

Lack of airlock activity is not a positive sign of a failed fermentation, despite the fact you may have been brewing for 30 years and it’s always bubbled. Cause 2 Bad Yeast (RARE): When a batch is not fermenting, there may be a problem with the yeast. If dry yeast has been properly packaged and stored, as it is in our store, it should be fully viable for up to two years.

However, if you are using a yeast package that came taped to the top of a dusty can of malt extract which has been stored in a hot supermarket warehouse for many months, then the yeast may be too old or may have been subjected to poor storage conditions, and may not work for you.

• Yeast need to be treated with care and be given the proper growing conditions.
• Dry yeast are dehydrated, they’re parched, they’re in no condition to start work.
• They need some nice luke warm (20-24 o C) water to re-hydrate in, some time to do some stretching, maybe an appetizer, and then they will be ready to tackle a full beer wort.

If the dry yeast is just sprinkled onto the surface of the wort, some of the yeast will be up to the challenge, some will get stuck to the fermenter wall above the fluid line and some just won’t do anything at all. Cure 2: Stir your mixed beer well to dissolve oxygen into the wort when first mixing it.

1. This provides the yeast with the oxygen they need to greatly boost their growth rate and make enough yeast cells to do the job properly in the first 24 hours.
2. Cause 3 Too Cold: The fermentation conditions may be too cold for an otherwise healthy yeast population.
3. Ale yeast tend to go dormant below 15 o C.

If the yeast were re-hydrated in really warm water (34 o C) and then pitched to a much cooler wort (18 o C), the large difference in temperature can thermally shock the yeast and cause a longer lag time as they adjust. Or in some cases, that otherwise normal ale fermentation temperature could cause those warm-acclimated yeast to call it quits.

1. Too Hot: Lager Yeasts tend to tick along very nicely in the 9-12 o C temperature range, but will stress when fermented above about 15 o C.
2. Talk to staff in store about fermentation temperature control.
3. Cure 3: For Ales In winter, try gently warming the fermentor by 2-3 o C; it may make all the difference.

Cause 4 Improper Sanitation: Sanitising can be carried too far some times. (ie using harsh sanitising agents that leave residues – bleach is a good example of this) When you were preparing the warm water for rehydrating or boiling your yeast starter, did you cool it to the proper temperature range? If the water is too cold, the yeast will be sluggish and have a hard time rehydrating.

1. If it is too hot ie above 38 o C then the yeast are going to be damaged and stressed, and refuse to have anything to do with you and your wort.
2. Also, if you added the yeast to the Starter wort and then boiled it, well, they’re dead.
3. Some you win, some you lose.and other’s, well they get rained out.

Congratulations! you’ve just committed Genicide on a population of 100 milion brewers friends. Cure 4: Pitch new yeast and try not to commit genocide on this lot. A few hints about Yeast Every yeast has what is known as a recommended “Pitch Rate”. The recommended pitch rate for Ale Yeasts is quite different to the pitch rate for a Lager Yeast.

For a Lager with a starting gravity of 1.046, the recommended Pitch Rate for an appropriate Dry Lager Yeast would be around 22 grams for a 23L batch. Rehydrate your yeast before pitching. Yeast needs lots of Oxygen in the first 24 + Hours – vigorously stir your wort immediately before pitching the yeast to aerate it. Don’t over fill the airlock. Add 5ml of water and a few drops of sanitiser – just enough to fill the U at the bottom of the airlock’s main body.

Can you open lid during fermentation?

You can absolutely open the bucket if you feel it’s necessary to stir the must. There is very little chance of contamination if you are diligent in sanitizing everything that will touch the must. If any air borne particles do get in there won’t be enough to get a foot hold and will be overtaken by the yeast.

Why is my beer still cloudy after 2 weeks?

Don’t worry about it. Real beer has yeast in it. Yeast can create haze. They do this until they flocculate (a fancy word that means they clump together and fall down).

What happens if you bottle beer too early?

What Happens if You Drink Homebrew Too Early? – If you are a first-time homebrewer, the urge to drink right away is strong, and even seasoned brewers sometimes battle with patience. You want to taste the fresh homebrew as soon as possible. However, the wait is always worth it in the end.

• If you drink homebrew too early, you will get the green beer taste.
• It’s the flat taste of young or premature beer that wasn’t given enough time to condition properly in the bottle.
• The green beer taste is flat and sometimes bitter, as the flavors are yet to dissolve completely and blend with the beer in the maturation/conditioning process.

The green beer taste isn’t the only off-taste you’ll experience when you drink your homebrew too early. When drinking just after bottling, you may sometimes pick sulphuric flavors and other harsh notes that will disappear after a few weeks. This might lead you to think your beer is infected and is the reason for the horrible taste, but it’s just the beer demanding,

Is fermentation faster than hydration?

Worked example – Use information in the table above to evaluate the two processes for producing ethanol. Fermentation has a lower percentage yield and rate of reaction than the hydration of ethene. The hydration of ethene has an atom economy of 100%, showing that all the atoms in the reactants form the desired product.

How do you know when to stop fermentation?

Once fermentation begins it can be difficult to manipulate its stopping point, and in most cases you will not want to. A successful fermentation will naturally come to an end when your wine is completely dry and there is no more residual sugar for the yeast to feast on.

That’s great, if you want a dry wine. There may be times, however, that you want to cut fermentation short so you can make an off-dry wine, dessert wine, or aperitif. The most basic way to halt fermentation is with sulfite additions and cooling the wine down near freezing temperatures (which for a 13% ABV wine is approximately 22 °F/-6 °C) for an extended time.

There is a lot of misinformation available that simply instructs to add sulfite in order to stop fermentation. The amount of sulfite required to stop an active fermentation depends on the active yeast population, but in almost all cases the amount of sulfite alone that would be required to stop an active fermentation at room temperature would have a negative impact on your wine.

Remember, you must chill the wine down once sulfited! Start by sulfiting your wine to 2.0 mg/L molecular SO2 based on your wine pH; for example, a wine with a pH of 3.2 requires 50 mg/L of free SO2 with chilling to stop fermentation while a wine with a pH of 3.6 requires 125 mg/L (refer to the sulfite calculator at www.winemakermag.com/sulfitecalculator to calculate the precise addition required for your wine).

This addition will considerably inhibit the yeast population. To achieve these levels of free SO2, you will need 4 to 10 Campden tablets per 5-gallon (19-L) batch depending on your pH. After this addition, immediately chill your wine and let it settle for at least 24 hours to ensure the treatment has been fully effective.

According to Daniel Pambianchi’s Techniques in Home Winemaking, 23 to 28 °F (-5 to -2 °C) is the ideal temperature range to quickly stop fermentation, but temperatures up to 40 °F (4 °C) will do the trick. The warmer the temperature, the longer the process will take. Cooling the must will result in a gradual stoppage to fermentation.

With that in mind, sulfite your wine and move it to a cold place when the Brix is still one or two degrees higher than desired. The time it will take fermentation to completely stop is dependent on the temperature, yeast cell count, sulfite level, and alcohol content.

Your wine should then be filtered down to a fine grade to remove as many yeast cells as possible. Once filtered, add potassium sorbate at a rate of 1⁄2 teaspoon per gallon (4 L) of wine. Potassium sorbate does not actually kill yeast cells, but it does prevent it from reproducing. An alternative way to halt fermentation is through fortification if you are making a Port-style wine or aperitif.

High alcohol levels kill off yeast cells (different strains have different thresholds, but usually 16-18 percent is the peak of what they can stand). The addition of a spirit to bring the alcohol level beyond what the yeast can survive in will stop fermentation fairly quickly.

1. If your plan is to make a fortified wine, be sure to do careful planning regarding the desired residual sugar and alcohol levels in advance so you can be exact on the timing of your spirit addition (of course, you can also add sugar later on if you make your spirit addition too late).
2. No matter the technique, if you plan on stopping fermentation short from the get-go, you can make it easier for yourself in the process.

For instance, forgo adding yeast nutrient to your must and consider under-pitching your yeast. Also, ferment at the low-end of the recommended temperature range, which will result in a less aggressive fermentation.

Is fermentation good for gut?

1. Source of beneficial lactic acid bacteria – Most fermented foods contribute bacteria that have a potential probiotic effect, This means that these bacteria may help restore the balance of bacteria in your gut, support digestive health and alleviate any digestive issues,

How do I know if my ferment worked?

One of the most common questions we receive is “How long should I let my _ ferment? How will I know when it is done?”. There are are many things to consider when determining the answers to these questions. Never fear! We have the answers.1) Always follow a recipe, Good recipes will give an ideal fermentation period in days specific to the vegetables and salinity of the brine it contains. 2) Allow your ferment to go for 7 days untouched. After a day or two, you will start to see bubbles, and the brine will become cloudy. This is the beneficial bacteria doing their job! 3) Taste your ferment on day 7 with a clean fork. Within 1 week it should start to taste sour. If you like it, it is done. If not let it continue to ferment. P ack the vegetables back down until the liquid rises above them. Let your ferment longer if you like a more sour taste and a softer texture. For maximum digestive and nutritive benefits, allow your veggies to ferment for 21 days and eat them raw.4) Finished ferments should have a pH reading of 4.5 or lower. Use pH test strips or a digital pH meter to test your ferments, if desired. Once the kraut is fermented to your desired taste and texture, you can put it in the refrigerator to arrest its progress.

Can you ferment without bacteria?

Fermentation occurs in the absence of oxygen (anaerobic conditions), and in the presence of beneficial microorganisms (yeasts, molds, and bacteria) that obtain their energy through fermentation.

How do you know when to stop fermentation?

Once fermentation begins it can be difficult to manipulate its stopping point, and in most cases you will not want to. A successful fermentation will naturally come to an end when your wine is completely dry and there is no more residual sugar for the yeast to feast on.

• That’s great, if you want a dry wine.
• There may be times, however, that you want to cut fermentation short so you can make an off-dry wine, dessert wine, or aperitif.
• The most basic way to halt fermentation is with sulfite additions and cooling the wine down near freezing temperatures (which for a 13% ABV wine is approximately 22 °F/-6 °C) for an extended time.

There is a lot of misinformation available that simply instructs to add sulfite in order to stop fermentation. The amount of sulfite required to stop an active fermentation depends on the active yeast population, but in almost all cases the amount of sulfite alone that would be required to stop an active fermentation at room temperature would have a negative impact on your wine.

Remember, you must chill the wine down once sulfited! Start by sulfiting your wine to 2.0 mg/L molecular SO2 based on your wine pH; for example, a wine with a pH of 3.2 requires 50 mg/L of free SO2 with chilling to stop fermentation while a wine with a pH of 3.6 requires 125 mg/L (refer to the sulfite calculator at www.winemakermag.com/sulfitecalculator to calculate the precise addition required for your wine).

This addition will considerably inhibit the yeast population. To achieve these levels of free SO2, you will need 4 to 10 Campden tablets per 5-gallon (19-L) batch depending on your pH. After this addition, immediately chill your wine and let it settle for at least 24 hours to ensure the treatment has been fully effective.

According to Daniel Pambianchi’s Techniques in Home Winemaking, 23 to 28 °F (-5 to -2 °C) is the ideal temperature range to quickly stop fermentation, but temperatures up to 40 °F (4 °C) will do the trick. The warmer the temperature, the longer the process will take. Cooling the must will result in a gradual stoppage to fermentation.

With that in mind, sulfite your wine and move it to a cold place when the Brix is still one or two degrees higher than desired. The time it will take fermentation to completely stop is dependent on the temperature, yeast cell count, sulfite level, and alcohol content.

1. Your wine should then be filtered down to a fine grade to remove as many yeast cells as possible.
2. Once filtered, add potassium sorbate at a rate of 1⁄2 teaspoon per gallon (4 L) of wine.
3. Potassium sorbate does not actually kill yeast cells, but it does prevent it from reproducing.
4. An alternative way to halt fermentation is through fortification if you are making a Port-style wine or aperitif.

High alcohol levels kill off yeast cells (different strains have different thresholds, but usually 16-18 percent is the peak of what they can stand). The addition of a spirit to bring the alcohol level beyond what the yeast can survive in will stop fermentation fairly quickly.

• If your plan is to make a fortified wine, be sure to do careful planning regarding the desired residual sugar and alcohol levels in advance so you can be exact on the timing of your spirit addition (of course, you can also add sugar later on if you make your spirit addition too late).
• No matter the technique, if you plan on stopping fermentation short from the get-go, you can make it easier for yourself in the process.

For instance, forgo adding yeast nutrient to your must and consider under-pitching your yeast. Also, ferment at the low-end of the recommended temperature range, which will result in a less aggressive fermentation.

How do I know when first fermentation is done?

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It should have an acidic/vinegar-like but not overpowering smell.

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When you taste it, it should still have a bit of sweetness to it and a pleasant amount of acidity. If you want it to be more acidic, then keep fermenting it longer. If it tastes sour enough, then you’re ready to bottle.

I tend to like bottling when it’s just a little too sweet for my liking (knowing that sugar will continue to get eaten away during F2 in the bottle). Just remember that you’ll also be adding some sugar from the fruit or other flavorings during F2 in the bottle. Again, some of that sugar will get eaten up and converted into carbon dioxide, but it’s just a matter of finding a happy timing and flavoring balance that works for your taste preference.

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Another quick note on “doneness” — after around 5 days in the vessel, the brew is ready to drink as-is. It’ll already be inoculated with that great, live bacteria. Some people like to drink kombucha right after F1, and that’s totally fine. You do not need to flavor and bottle your kombucha before you drink it.

However, if you want to flavor your kombucha and create more carbonation to make it flavored, fizzy beverage, you have to go through a second fermentation process in an airtight bottle.

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When should I stop fermenting my beer?

Has my beer stopped fermenting? This is a common question that crops up amongst new brewers waiting expectantly on their first or second batch of beer. Fortunately it’s an easy question to answer -and a good opportunity to learn what happens during fermentation as well as a bit about using hydrometers.

1. Read on! Firstly it’s a good idea to know what to expect of a fermenting batch of beer.
2. Most of us know that there should be some vigorous bubbling from the airlock (much to the amusement of family members), and a thick head of yeast on top of the beer.
3. This will slow down and eventually subside after a few days, signifying that the time for bottling is soon approaching.

But what is really going on under that lid? To understand what’s really happening in the fermenter we need to understand the basics of what our yeast get up to. These friendly fungi are the ones actually making our beer for us at this point, so their habits and happiness is worth understanding.

1. When pitched to the fermenter, the yeast first acclimatise to their new environment and begin to multiply many times over.
2. The yeast use oxygen during this reproductive phase and this is the reason that brewers shake the fermenter vigorously for several minutes to oxygenate the wort before pitching the yeast.

The yeast do not yet make any alcohol or carbon dioxide at this early stage -they are far too busy populating the contents of the fermenter! This quiet start is referred to as the lag phase and is where we expectantly wait for 12-24 hours for the yeast population to grow, and then begin on the important (and rowdy) task of producing alcohol! Well that’s pretty simple- but you guessed correctly that if the wort is not oxygenated the yeast won’t be able to multiply.

This can happen if a brewer forgets to oxygenate or doesn’t shake the fermenter quite enough ( 4-5 minutes is best), Another important factor is just how much yeast is pitched. A left over half sachet from a few months ago is not going to get the job done! There need to be enough healthy, viable yeast to get off to a strong start populating the wort.

Too few simply cannot multiply enough times. So.always pitch a full rehydrated yeast sachet. The lag phase will be short and the yeast happy and plentiful! The next phase is the vigorous conversion of sugars to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The yeast have run out of oxygen and now turn to sugar for sustenance.

They can survive without oxygen and enter a new phase known as ‘anaerobic’ (without oxygen). The yeast now produce alcohol, flavour compounds called esters and phenols, and work their way through the sugar. The carbon dioxide simultaneously produces a large head of yeasty froth on top of the beer and signifies the peak of fermentation.

This busy and productive time is also commonly called ‘primary fermentation’ and is essentially when the magic happens and the young beer is created. Once the primary fermentation has begun in earnest there is not too much that can dissuade the yeast from quitting-excepting really cold conditions- below 16C say.

• As a general rule the cooler temperatures result in slower (and perhaps less energetic) primary fermentation times and warmer faster.
• Often this stage is over very quickly- two to three days is not uncommon with 4-7 being average.
• But it’s not quite over yet.
• The last phase of fermentation is where our original question usually arises.

Is the beer almost ready? -What is it doing now?-Should I bottle it this weekend? I’m getting thirsty! After the initial crescendo of primary fermentation, the beer can look like it has completed its job. This is not at all true though. The young beer has now entered its last important phase known as secondary fermentation.

1. At this point the yeast are still consuming any remaining sugars- though at a much slower rate – and also consuming by-products of the primary phase.
2. The yeast is finishing the job thoroughly and also cleaning up after itself! With the sugar almost gone, the yeast finds and breaks down various other compounds which later affect the finished flavour of the beer.

You could see it a gradual finishing or pre- maturation phase. Once the yeast has exhausted its supply of food it begins to go dormant. It clumps together and drops to the bottom of the fermenter, eventually leaving the beer clear(a process called flocculation) English brewers refer to this as the beer ‘dropping bright’,Depending on the yeast this can happen quite quickly or sometimes take a while.

The fermentation is essentially now over, and the beer is beginning to mature. So is my beer ready? Typically, yes, but let’s look at some important time frames and scenarios. Being aware of variables is what is important now. Most advice to home brewers suggests a total fermentation time of 12-14 days.

This is assuming a ‘textbook brew’ with plenty of healthy yeast and fermentation at a suitable temperature ( 17C-24C ). Generally things work out fine within this timeframe and temperature range. The beer is then bottled, undergoes carbonation from a small secondary fermentation (from added priming sugar) and then has a week or three to mature before drinking.

Now that you have a general idea of what’s going on under the lid let’s quickly look at how a hydrometer can help us measure the yeast’s progress, and help calculate the alcohol content of our finished beer. A hydrometer is a useful floating measure that will sink lower or float higher depending on how much dissolved sugar is in our beer.

Most brewers take a gravity reading just before the yeast is pitched, and then again before bottling. As the yeast consumes the sugar, the hydrometer readings will gradually drop (as the hydrometer floats lower). Generally, taking a reading during fermentation is quite unnecessary if things are progressing normally.

• Remember, frequently opening your fermenter exposes the contents to bacteria and wild yeast, though if you have a side tap this is a bit less of an issue.
• There is a good bit of common advice that if one takes a reading for a few consecutive days and gets the same results, the yeast has finished the work –though again this typically this isn’t necessary unless you really aren’t sure.

Measuring the alcohol content is done by taking (and writing down!) a gravity reading just prior to fermentation called the Original Gravity (shortened to O.G.), and then, at the end of fermentation the Final Gravity (F.G.). The F.G.is subtracted from the O.G.

• And multiplied by 0.129 to give the Alcohol by Volume (the same %ABV we see on our commercial beer and wine bottles).
• Here are three examples of some typical strengths of beer, beginning with an average strength.
• Average: O.G.1.048 F.G.1.011.1.048-1.011=0.037 37 X 0.129=4.77% A.B.V.
• Light : O.G.1.034 F.G.1.008 1.034-1.008=0.026 26 X 0.129=3.35% A.B.V.

Strong : O.G.1.069 F.G.1.014 1.069-1.014=0.055 55 X 0.129=7.09% A.B.V In another post I will take a more detailed look at using a hydrometer, but that’s a useful start for now! To round up, let’s quickly look at where a fermentation cycle can go astray, take too long or just seem wrong – and why.

By now you now have a pretty clear idea of the fermentation phases happening inside fermenter as well as some of the possible pitfalls. Here’s a set of easy ‘Best case’ versus ‘Concerned! ‘scenarios to help you! The lag phase: Best case scenario: A full sachet of rehydrated yeast s pitched and begins to ferment (bubbling airlock) after 6-12 hours (or even sooner).

The temperature is within target range specified on sachet (or manufacturer’s website)The wort was vigorously shaken and splashed to aerate it thoroughly. A light froth begins to form on the beer. The lag phase. Concerned! : After 24 hours nothing is happening or there is only very occasional bubbling from the airlock.

Check that the airlock is properly secured- often a slight leak in the airlock’s grommet seal stops it from bubbling as the CO2 is escaping around it.17C to 24C is your ballpark. A quick peak in the fermenter may reveal an actively fermenting beer! Is the fermenter sitting in an icy winter garage or is the temperature really low? Keep the fermenter in a warm enough room.17C to 24C is your ballpark. Did you aerate enough (or possibly forget)? If not, do so immediately- it should help get things going. Under-pitching(not enough) yeast will also slow things down considerably. Consider pitching more yeast. Slow bubbling does mean something is happening – often it will simply get going properly in another few hours. If you have checked through the variables, grab a beer and don’t worry.

Primary Fermentation: Best case scenario: A rocky head of yeast forms on the beer and the airlock is happily bubbling away. Regular bubbling slows right down after three to six days (sometimes sooner), A foam line can be visible from the high ‘krausen’ on some fermenters.

Cold temperatures are your main cause for concern here if the other factors like yeast and aeration have been checked. Move the fermenter to a warmer area. Warm temperature and a low gravity beer can lead to very quick fermentations- as short as 2-3 days. Primary fermentation may have already taken place.

Secondary fermentation. Best case scenario: The airlock slows down to a very occasional bubble. The surface of the beer clears with a few light patches of thin foam here and there. Many brewers use the airlock as an indicator at this point-once activity stops completely the beer is done.

• This works pretty well, just be aware that a very cold spell can also make your yeast go temporarily dormant! At this stage the beer begins to clear of yeast, and after a few days the yeast should have formed a thick visible layer at the bottom and the beer cleared.
• At this time you can bottle within a few days or let it mature for another week or so if you do not have time.

Remember; two to three weeks are the best length of time to wait before bottling. Secondary fermentation. Concerned! : The beer smells ‘off’ or the airlock is persistently bubbling.

A bad smell (and there are many kinds!) or a visible growth on top of the beer means that wild yeast and/or bacteria have got in and wreaked havoc. Pay more attention to sanitizing. It’s not common, but it does sometimes happen-quite often more in summer or autumn when there is a lot of wild yeast floating around. A ‘green apple’ smell is normal for young beer, and a light sulphur smell is also known with some yeast strains. A persistent fermentation can mean two things. Most probably the yeast is simply taking longer to get the job done or, less likely, wild yeast and bacteria have taken residence. Most likely it is the strain of yeast that is simply taking a little longer than usual. If in doubt have a sniff in the fermenter. It should smell initially of carbon dioxide followed by a clean beer/hoppy/slight green apple aroma. If in doubt, a gravity reading will help.

With a little experience and the information here, you will soon always know when your beer is ready. And it’s a very satisfying thing to know too-good luck with your brews! This article is copyright and used with exclusive permission to Beerlab. Nick Birkby 2013 : Has my beer stopped fermenting?

Should beer be cloudy during fermentation?

You have a good, old-fashioned case of chill haze. – Chill haze is a condition in which malt-derived tannins and proteins clump together at cold temperatures (I like to think they’re trying to keep each other warm) and render a beer cloudy. The haze is harmless, and once the beer warms up a little, it’ll go away.