How Long Can You Store A Moonshine Mash?

It depends on what type of wash you have but as a general rule of thumb, it is best to distil within 2-3 days after fermentation is complete. The wash will keep for up to a month so long as the fermenter is airtight. The period can be extended if the wash is racked off into a clean airtight container.

How do you store moonshine mash?

Making moonshine, a strong homemade distilled alcohol, can be a complex process. A great-tasting moonshine depends on storing and processing the mash correctly. One step to consider is whether moonshine mash must be stored in an airtight container. Moonshine mash can be stored in an airtight container.

The container should be able to expel carbon dioxide to reduce pressure build-up. If the container is not airtight, try to prevent oxygen from entering it, as this can impact the moonshine’s taste. Read this article to understand more about the kind of containers in which moonshine mash should be stored.

I’ll also explore the process of making moonshine mash, focusing on the types of containers to use.

Can moonshine mash ferment too long?

Home Distiller Other discussions for folks new to the wonderful craft of home distilling. Moderator: Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:10 pm Hi folks, I may have a bit of a dilemma. I started a 2 separate 5 gallon Cornmeal/Sugar/Barley mashes in anticipation of distilling after about 7 or 8 days.

• However, when I unpacked my new still that I ordered I realized that an important piece was missing and I had to alert to seller to send to me ASAP.
• Of course I was disappointed and fighting mad.
• Anyway the seller sent the item but it’s taking forever to arrive and according to the tracking I may receive it tomorrow or the next day but the dilemma I referred to is that both my mashes have now been sitting for 14 days or 15 days now and active fermentation stopped after about 10 days.

I didn’t have a suitable secondary vessels at the time and I hated to go out and spend a lot of money for glass carboys to transfer to while I waited for the shipment. I read something about not letting the mash sit too long after fermentation finished and to distill immediately after the bubbling stopped or else all I did was make vinegar.

So my question is has my mash basically gone to waste now or do I still have a chance at distilling a good product once I get my part in a couple days? If it matters I used Turbo Yeast on one mash 5lbs Yellow Cornmeal + 5lbs White Sugar with 1lbs Rye and 1lbs Toasted Barley Grains and on the other I used Fleischman’s Bread Yeast with 5lbs Yellow Cornmeal + 5lbs White Sugar with 2lbs Light Barley Grains I do have more ingredients at the ready to start over.

I planned to make a new mash anyway once I distilled the first two but I was hoping to save these and not have to start all the way over again and wait. What’s the verdict? Thanks in advance. Why you babysitting only two or three shots? I’mma show you how to turn it up a notch.

First you get a swimming pool full of liquor, then you dive in it! Trainee Posts: Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:43 pm Location: South of the Mason Dixon line by » Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:19 pm The wash you made is still plenty good. Hell it’s just now cleared probably. Not sure where you read that you must distill ASAP after fermentation but it’s not true and you need to stop getting advise from wherever that was.

Do you plan to use one if these washes for the cleaning run? Your going to do a vinnegar run first right? I think you maybe need to ready crankys spoon feeding thread for a while before you fire up that still. But what the heck do I know.I am still learning.

Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:01 am Location: where the buffalo roam, and the deer & antelope play by » Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:21 pm JayTeeDee wrote:,both my mashes have now been sitting for 14 days or 15 days now and active fermentation stopped after about 10 days.has my mash basically gone to waste now or do I still have a chance at distilling a good product once I get my part in a couple days? Naw, don’t worry too much about it.

The ferment will be fine. The good thing about alcohol.it is still a pretty good preservative. If the ferment was healthy, it’ll set fine for a week or two, even after it’s done. So, what’s more critical.the cleaning runs for your still. There is a 4-step protocol recommended here: step 1) mechanical cleaning (brush and soap), step 2) a good steam bath (fill with water and make some steam).

• Get it all good and hot.
• Step 3) vinegar run with 50/50 vinegar and water (get it good and hot again), step 4) a sacrificial alcohol run, meaning you run a wash through it like a regular wash, but you dispose of the product (all of it too!).
• So, if you’re planning to use one of your mashes as the sac run.OK.

Otherwise, get a quick sugar wash started to clean the still before your cornmeal mash. ss p.s. – the spoon feed thread that StillLearning recommended (Cranky’s) is linked in my signature. Just click and read.read.read.etc. Last edited by on Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:26 pm Whew good to know. I plan on running them twice. I read some stuff from different books and distillation blogs that had me freaking out. I’m just trying to make some good whiskey. Thanks for the quick reply! Yea I might use the Turbo as a sac run it’s the one that’s been sitting the longest.

Why you babysitting only two or three shots? I’mma show you how to turn it up a notch. First you get a swimming pool full of liquor, then you dive in it! Trainee Posts: Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:43 pm Location: South of the Mason Dixon line by » Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:38 pm JayTeeDee wrote: Whew good to know.

1. I plan on running them twice.
2. I read some stuff from different books and distillation blogs that had me freaking out.
3. I’m just trying to make some good whiskey.
4. Thanks for the quick reply! Yea I might use the Turbo as a sac run it’s the one that’s been sitting the longest.
5. Man we got a guy here that swears by letting his ferments sit for AT LEAST a month after fermentation stops.

Just keep the lid on and the fingers out and you should be fine. What kinda still did you order? But what the heck do I know.I am still learning. retired Posts: Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:13 pm by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 6:39 am I rarely run a wash/ mash that is LESS than 3 weeks to a month old.

• I noticed that you wanted to run it after several days – did you miss that you said fermentation stopped after 10 days? Leave it be Beaver, you’ll be fine.
• Read my signature lines Coyote “Slow Down, You’ll get a more harmonious outcome” “Speed & Greed have no place in this hobby” Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 6:46 am StillLearning1 wrote: Man we got a guy here that swears by letting his ferments sit for AT LEAST a month after fermentation stops.

Just keep the lid on and the fingers out and you should be fine. What kinda still did you order A friend bought me one of those Chinese made stills off Amazon because they knew I home brewing and thought I might like this too. It got good genuine reviews so hopefully it holds up to the test.

1. That’s why the part is taking so long because it’s coming from Beijing! But eventually I’m going to upgrade to a good one from Clawhammer unless y’all can recommend some other place.
2. Last edited by on Tue Mar 15, 2016 7:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
3. Why you babysitting only two or three shots? I’mma show you how to turn it up a notch.

First you get a swimming pool full of liquor, then you dive in it! Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 6:48 am Coyote wrote: I noticed that you wanted to run it after several days – did you miss that you said fermentation stopped after 10 days? Leave it be Beaver, you’ll be fine.

My original plan based on what I thought at the time was solid research from youtube and other blogs before I found this forum was to run it after about 6-8 days. I just freaked out when I didn’t have my part and thought my first batches were ruined because I left them too long. Why you babysitting only two or three shots? I’mma show you how to turn it up a notch.

First you get a swimming pool full of liquor, then you dive in it! Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 6:52 am still_stirrin wrote: So, what’s more critical.the cleaning runs for your still. There is a 4-step protocol recommended here: step 1) mechanical cleaning (brush and soap), step 2) a good steam bath (fill with water and make some steam).

• Get it all good and hot.
• Step 3) vinegar run with 50/50 vinegar and water (get it good and hot again), step 4) a sacrificial alcohol run, meaning you run a wash through it like a regular wash, but you dispose of the product (all of it too!).
• So, if you’re planning to use one of your mashes as the sac run.OK.

Otherwise, get a quick sugar wash started to clean the still before your cornmeal mash. That’s good information I may make a quick sugar wash to run before the cornmeal. Just 5lbs of Sugar + 5 Gallon of Water + yeast right? All of which I got plenty of! I don’t mind sacrificing that. Posts: Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 1:41 am Location: a land of saints, poets and navigators by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 8:48 am JTD can we see a picture of the chinese still? I fear it might have plenty of unsafe materials. Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:05 am cuginosgrizzo wrote: JTD can we see a picture of the chinese still? I fear it might have plenty of unsafe materials.

UH OH! Here is the product page: And here are some pictures I took when I notified the seller of the missing part. The part I’m missing by the way is if you check the product page is that airlock that they have attached to the top of the pot which doubles as a fermenter. They call it an exhaust valve though.

I didn’t ferment in the pot though I fermented in my cleaned and sanitized brew buckets. I was taking everything out to clean when I noticed the part missing. I repackaged it up just in case I was going to have issues getting the part. But I will thoroughly clean and sanitize the same I do with my brewing equipment and I will do a sac run. Posts: Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 1:41 am Location: a land of saints, poets and navigators by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:19 am It doesn’t look totally unsafe, at least to my unpracticed eye. There are much worse around. At least the connection is copper, I hope they used lead free solder on those junctions.

What’s that gasket made of? It looks like silicon: if it is discard it, since it is not considered safe, and make yourself another with ptfe wrapped cardboard (look for everlasting gasket on this site). The worm I fear is way too small, you’ll not have an easy life tuning that. Also, collection point is right above the still, if you plan to use a gas burner try to extend the product collection as far as you can from the open flames.

Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 10:18 am cuginosgrizzo wrote: What’s that gasket made of? It looks like silicon: if it is discard it, since it is not considered safe, and make yourself another with ptfe wrapped cardboard (look for everlasting gasket on this site).

1. The worm I fear is way too small, you’ll not have an easy life tuning that.
2. Also, collection point is right above the still, if you plan to use a gas burner try to extend the product collection as far as you can from the open flames.
3. I think it is silicone so I’ll use it as a guide and toss it to make the everlasting gasket.

I found the instructions to make one. Thanks. The worm is small but it’ll have to do for now. and I’ too was concerned about the collection point. I will be using a gas burner so I’ll have to rig it up some kind of way to keep it from the open flame I think I got an idea so I’ll do a test run when cleaning. Posts: Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 1:41 am Location: a land of saints, poets and navigators by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 10:28 am Did you consider building? I started with a buy mindset then built my own. Even starting with a very limited skill set I managed to make my own still.

I found out that it is fun and it teaches you a lot. Actually I believe that in this hobby half the fun is building, half is making spirit and half is drinking it! Swill Maker Posts: Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 5:00 pm Location: PA by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 10:31 am I originally went with an airstill and I gotta say it’s much more cost effective to just get a boiler and some copper and build your own plus you can troubleshoot it when you need to without contacting manufacturers or being without the still entirely to each there own but I think you’d do better with almost anything other than tho eBay stills Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 10:37 am I never considered building but I’m pretty handy maybe I could do DIY it.

I’ll see how the Chinese thing works for now and go from there. Why you babysitting only two or three shots? I’mma show you how to turn it up a notch. First you get a swimming pool full of liquor, then you dive in it! Trainee Posts: Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:43 pm Location: South of the Mason Dixon line by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:41 am Sorry Jayteedee.

1. I wasn’t trying to burst your bubble.
2. But I was afraid you may have ordered one of those eBay stills.
3. We see it at least once a week here, someone orders one of those then comes here wondering why it won’t work well.
4. The good news is your here now and you can research the still, find out what’s suitable or not and go from there.

And you have all the advise a man could ask for on how to get where your going. But what the heck do I know.I am still learning. Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:50 am StillLearning1 wrote: Sorry Jayteedee. I wasn’t trying to burst your bubble.

• But I was afraid you may have ordered one of those eBay stills.
• We see it at least once a week here, someone orders one of those then comes here wondering why it won’t work well.
• The good news is your here now and you can research the still, find out what’s suitable or not and go from there.
• And you have all the advise a man could ask for on how to get where your going.

Well it was a gift so I’ll just use it to learn on until I upgrade or build on my own. Why you babysitting only two or three shots? I’mma show you how to turn it up a notch. First you get a swimming pool full of liquor, then you dive in it! Trainee Posts: Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:43 pm Location: South of the Mason Dixon line by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 12:11 pm JayTeeDee wrote: StillLearning1 wrote: Sorry Jayteedee.

I wasn’t trying to burst your bubble. But I was afraid you may have ordered one of those eBay stills. We see it at least once a week here, someone orders one of those then comes here wondering why it won’t work well. The good news is your here now and you can research the still, find out what’s suitable or not and go from there.

And you have all the advise a man could ask for on how to get where your going. Well it was a gift so I’ll just use it to learn on until I upgrade or build on my own. As long as it’s safe that’s a great plan. You will know pretty quick if your going to outgrow that still or not. Posts: Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:47 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:12 pm A few minor modifications should get you safely going on that one. By the way, I have a ferment that has been sitting since September waiting to go. As long as you keep it sealed with an air lock, you’ll be fine.

In order to get vinegar, you need an acetobacter introduced. Fruit flies are a big enemy of us as they often carry these little buggers. They convert alcohol to vinegar (the bacteria do). Site Donor Posts: Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:16 pm Location: NW Montana – Flathead Valley by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 5:53 pm StillLearning1 wrote: JayTeeDee wrote: Whew good to know.

I plan on running them twice. I read some stuff from different books and distillation blogs that had me freaking out. I’m just trying to make some good whiskey. Thanks for the quick reply! Yea I might use the Turbo as a sac run it’s the one that’s been sitting the longest.

1. Man we got a guy here that swears by letting his ferments sit for AT LEAST a month after fermentation stops.
2. Just keep the lid on and the fingers out and you should be fine.
3. What kinda still did you order? I’m one of those guys, my rums sit for 5 to 6 weeks.
4. The one out back that was supposed to run last weekend is now on week 7.

Still pops a bubble every few minutes. Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:49 am by » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:48 pm I just got notification my part made it to the local post office so it should be delivered tomorrow. I’m going to do my cleaning and my sac run then my distillation and report back! Why you babysitting only two or three shots? I’mma show you how to turn it up a notch.

What happens if you ferment mash too long?

can you mash to long? some of the recipes call for 45min mash. at 154 degrees.but i will mash 25 min longer to make sure i converted all the starch to sugars.does that hurt the mash at all? The purpose of the mash is to allow you, the brewer, to present the sugar profile you desire in the fermenter to make the beer you designed.

1. At 45 min starch conversion is (almost, don’t worry about it) always converted to sugar, “Conversion” complete.
2. After conversion the enzymes are still hard at work breaking long chain (non-fermentable) sugars into short chain (fermentable) sugars.
3. All this action is controlled mostly by temp and time.

The 154F mash temp indicates that you wish to make a beer that has a residual sweetness. The “extra” 25 minutes will tend to lessen this somewhat, and there is nothing wrong with that!!! I have mashed beers for 4 hrs, some brewers mash overnight. There is really no hurting the mash, there is really no “wrong” way there are different actions that change the character of the resulting beer.

The bottom line is how does the beer taste? Fred I agree 100%. There is no single best way to mash, sparge, lauter, boil, cool, or ferment. Some of your options are relatively fixed, and depend on the equipment you have, and the true variables depend on the beer you want to create with that batch. The only way you can mash for too long is if you let it go sour.

This will generally happen within 24-48 hours. But with a large mash (the one I am talking about was 2,400lbs) I have seen it happen in as little as 8 hours. So unless you’re making Jack Daniels, don’t let it sit for too, too long. Darin In food service they say that the “Danger Zone” is between 40 and 140 degrees, and anything kept at such temperatures for more than four hours is to be suspect.

Eep it under four hours and you should be OK. As long your tempreture is within a few degrees of your desired temp (154) then time shouldn’t matter. If the recipe is calling for 45 minutes and you were to mash for 70 just to feel like you are sure then I say run with it. Remember, it is your recipe now bummer.

lol. I talked to a brewer at Stone Brewing Company, and he told me that they tried starting the lauter immediately after mash in was complete on a batch of Arrogant Bastard. He told me that they got nearly the exact same efficiency as with a 45 minute mash schedule.

I’ve never tried this myself, but I have gone with a 30 minute mash with no problems. Darin What about mashing overnight? If I want a full bodied beer and I mash in at 156-158 and then go to bed and wake up the next morning to finish up, assuming the mash didn’t fall below 140 what will that do to the character of the beer and is there a problem with letting it rest for 8 hours? I think I know based on my thread from yesterday and Fred’s answers but I’d like to see if mashing overnight is really a viable option? thanks WR There are many brewers that mash overnight, and going below 140F is not the end of the world.

There are many, many bugs on the grain, but nothing will grow in beer that will kill you, has to do with the pH of beer. My suggestion is to try it and see what you get, adjust your process from there. Fred Going below 140 isn’t the end of the world, but it does invite contamination.

I will never mash overnight because I prefer a low bodied beer from a mash that is between 145 and 150. Such mashes, overnight, without properly insulated equipment, invite infection. I suppose if you have a well insulated mash tun, and you want a full bodied beer, that starting a mash in the high 150s and leaving it overnight would leave a full bodied mash sitting in the 145 or so degree range with minimal bacteria growing in it.

I wouldn’t do it. Last two times I tried overnight mashing I ended up with foamy sour bacterial nastiness. : can you mash to long?

How much yield from 5 gallons of mash?

How Much Alcohol Will a Still Produce? – Before we get started, a reminder: Distilling alcohol is illegal without a federal fuel alcohol or distilled spirit plant permit as well as relevant state permits. Our distillation equipment is designed for legal uses only and the information in this article is for educational purposes only.

A 1 gallon run will yield 3-6 cups of alcohol A 5 gallon run will yield 1-2 gallons of alcohol A 8 gallon run will yield 1.5-3 gallons of alcohol A 10 gallon run will yield 2-4 gallons of alcohol

For the researchers, science nerds, alchemists, and truth seekers, here’s why:

Is it OK to stir mash while fermenting?

Final Thoughts – Stirring the mash after adding the yeast is not a good idea. You risk disrupting the fermentation process that turns sugar into alcohol. Instead, make sure your mash has the optimal conditions for the yeast to thrive. : Do You Stir Mash After Adding Yeast? 4 Things To Know

How long can fermented mash sit before distilling?

It depends on what type of wash you have but as a general rule of thumb, it is best to distil within 2-3 days after fermentation is complete. The wash will keep for up to a month so long as the fermenter is airtight.

Does longer fermentation mean more alcohol?

Does Longer Fermentation Mean More Alcohol? Whether your drink of choice is beer, cider, wine or spirits, these beverages all share one common denominator – they’ve gone through the fermentation process. Maybe you’ve heard the term “fermentation” before and you know that the process really isn’t that difficult to understand.

But the real intricacies of the alcohol fermentation process often aren’t as widely understood. This misunderstanding of the fermentation process dates back thousands of years. When humans first began fermenting foods and beverages, everything was developed through trial and error. Today, each of the processes for fermenting these delightful beverages involves multiple important steps.

What does the fermentation process actually look like? To learn about the process and answer the question of “does longer fermentation mean more alcohol?,” look no further than this blog post. What Is Yeast? If you want to understand the process of fermenting alcohol, knowing what yeast is and how it performs in the fermentation process is crucial.

Yeast is a living, single-celled organism that’s classified as a type of fungi. To survive, yeast thrives on sugar. Combining yeast and sugar kicks off the fermentation process, for alcoholic beverages and fermented foods alike. Grains and fruit are two categories of ingredients that both contain significant quantities of sugar, making them ripe for use in the alcohol fermentation process.

Cider and wine are most commonly made from fermented fruit, while beer and spirits are made from fermented grains like barley, rye and others. The Fermentation Process Fermentation is when yeast consumes sugar and produces ethyl alcohol or ethanol, and the flavor and aroma in beer and other alcoholic beverages.

Manipulating the temperature, oxygen level and type of yeast all contribute to the flavor and aroma of the end product. The fermentation process involves three stages: primary fermentation, secondary fermentation and conditioning. Before the fermentation process can begin, the barley or grain must be dried.

Drying the grain converts the starches to sugars so they can feed the yeast. This dried barley (or other grain) is referred to as malt and is the primary ingredient in beer. If you’ve read our blog,, you know that the next critical ingredient in the beer brewing process is hops.

Then, of course, comes water—the essential ingredient that allows the yeast, malt, hops, and any other ingredients to mix so that the fermentation process can take place. Primary Fermentation Primary fermentation begins when yeast is added to cool wort. If the conditions are just right for the yeast, it will digest the sugars and give off ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide.

The ethyl alcohol produced from combining yeast and sugar is what gives beer and other alcoholic beverages their intoxicating properties. As these byproducts are produced, the yeast continues to grow, adding to the beer’s aroma and flavor profile. Once the alcohol and carbon dioxide are released, you’ll see bubbling and frothing.

This frothing action is actually where the term fermentation originates from. The Latin word, fervere, which means “to boil” refers to the bubbling and frothing that happens during primary fermentation. Secondary Fermentation During the secondary fermentation stage, most of the sugars have been consumed and the alcohol by volume (ABV) increases.

With the majority of the sugar consumed, the rate of fermentation decreases while the alcohol content continues to increase. To further increase the alcohol content, some brewers will add other types of sugar like brown sugar, honey or dextrose once the initial sugars have been consumed.

Alcohol by Volume To calculate a beer’s ABV, brewers measure the gravity of the beer (how much sugar is present) after fermentation and subtract it from the original gravity (how much sugar was present in the wort before yeast was added). Conditioning

Conditioning is the final step in the brewing process, and takes place after the final gravity has been calculated. During the conditioning stage, yeast within the beer settles and conditions the beer by reducing the number of compounds which produce unwanted flavors.

• Darker beers such as lagers, stouts and porters condition for longer periods of time than a typical ale.
• After a certain point, the yeast in a darker beer begins to struggle to eat the sugars because of the excess alcohol.
• Yeasts used for ale don’t have the ability to process complex sugars like yeasts used in lagers, stouts and porters.

This is why these types of beers ferment for different amounts of time. If beers are exposed to oxygen at this stage and oxidize, the quality, flavor profile and aroma will decline and the finished product will taste reminiscent of cardboard or wet paper.

• SoDoes Longer Fermentation Mean More Alcohol? In short, if all of the sugars have been consumed, the answer is yes.
• The longer the fermentation process takes, the more sugar is converted into alcohol.
• As more sugar is converted, the resulting beer will feature a higher alcohol content.
• Learn More About the Fermentation Process When it comes to beer, there’s always more to learn.

If you’re ready to start your own brewing adventure, ! The experts at BrewSavor can help you choose the right equipment for both low- and high-temperature applications. : Does Longer Fermentation Mean More Alcohol?

How long can you leave a mash for?

How long will they last? – Ahanov Michael/Shutterstock According to Healthline, mashed potatoes typically last three to four days in the fridge and up to a year when frozen, although the quality of mashed potatoes will not hold up once they have been frozen. This timeline applies to the most common types of potatoes typically found at grocery stores: Yukon gold, russet, sweet potatoes, and more.

Keeping your mashed potatoes in an airtight container will keep them fresh for longer, and prevent them from absorbing smells from surrounding food, per The Rusty Spoon, They state there are a few telltale signs that your potatoes have gone bad. The first and most obvious is moldy patches. Any discoloration means it is time to toss the whole container.

Additionally, they state that any glossy patches or dry spots are clear indicators that your leftovers should be left alone. Leftovers can be a quick and easy meal but it’s always a good idea to practice food safety to reduce any unnecessary health risks — especially when it comes to potatoes.

How long can you wait between mash and boil?

Re: Time Delay from Mash to Boil You should be fine for at least 24 hours.

How long does moonshine last in a Mason jar?

Generally they will last two years unopened and about six months after opening. They will generally last longer if you store them in the fridge after opening as well.

Can you run moonshine mash twice?

Remove any corn that is floating on the top as these are spent and no good for you. Cover her up and leave her for 3-4 days until your mixture has finished fermenting. Now you can run the mash again. First of all you need to make sure that the shine you are getting out of your mash is good stuff.

How many times can you reuse moonshine mash?

Home Distiller Production methods from starch to sugars. Moderator: Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Wed May 23, 2012 10:13 pm Hi Everyone Beginner here, be nice. I’m making a batch of ethanol using 6kg white sugar, 21L water and one pack of yeast.

• Total 25L) Apparently one can reuse the left over slop in the still up to 8 times, which begs my first question.1) If the yeast and sugar reacted correctly then there shouldn’t be any of either in the left over mash.
• Why reuse it? And if there is a good reason for someone distilling the cleanest ethanol possible to reuse it then here is my second question.2) Is this how one reuses mash? I distill the mash till it’s dead, then tip it back into my fermenting bucket.

I add another pack of yeast, another 6KG sugar, and top up to 25L with water and wait another week. I don’t argue, I debate. Angel’s Share Posts: Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:07 pm Location: up north by » Thu May 24, 2012 4:37 am “one can reuse the left over slop in the still up to 8 times” why,I guess you could if you was short on water,leave that for rum /whiskey brewers. but you can reuse the yeast from the fermenter (see UJSSM) Site Donor Posts: Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 4:00 pm Location: Paradise by » Thu May 24, 2012 4:46 am go over to the tried and true section and run of those recipes. You will be thankful. Sugar + water + yeast=etoh but the yeast need nutrients. The recipes over there are reproducible and come out great.

• I like Wineos but its a slow ferment.
• No sense reinvinting the wheel.
• Retired Posts: Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:40 pm Location: The Ol’ North State by » Thu May 24, 2012 5:15 am X2, 6K is too much sugar for 25L to make good spirits.
• The yeast will likely stress and produce off-flavors, and the ferment may even stall.

should be more like 5K max, but as rgarry said you need something else in there for the yeasts health, so swing over to the tried n true recipes and have a look. NChooch Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat. retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Thu May 24, 2012 7:25 am Spent mash = backset or in case of rum dunder.

1. That will give you something to search for.
2. But I wouldn’t use it for a neutral.
3. Reuse the yeast in the fermenter could be useful.
4. But in the case of a neutral backset would add flavors you are trying to get rid of.
5. Tried and true recipe section.
6. And it would be nice if you stepped over to the welcome center and introduced yourself.

Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Thu May 24, 2012 8:09 pm Prairy, you are right. How rude of me. I’ll go ahead and do that now. Thanks everyone else for the input. Kinda what I thought, pure spirit is better with a fresh wash every time.

And as for the sugar, 6kg is what the yeast recommends. I followed all instructions and it’s bubbling away on day 5. I don’t argue, I debate. Rumrunner Posts: Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:03 pm Location: Mississippi by » Thu May 24, 2012 8:30 pm ahhh turbo! check out “tried and true” for sure,u can get rid of that expensive turbo yeast and use plain ol bakers yeast.Gerber is a good one fer me! 3′ Essential Extractor PSII High Capacity (Brewhaus) on gas,recirculating 60 gal olive barrel for cooling Employ your time in improving yourself by other men’s writings, so that you shall gain easily what others have labored hard for ~ Socrates Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 12:55 am I just worked it out, I’d save just over £1 a wash if I used bakers yeast.

Hardly seems worth it, but I’m yet to yield my first batch yet. Early days. Also, elsewhere I’ve heard that bakers yeast can produce unwanted bi-products during fermentation. I don’t argue, I debate. Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:54 pm Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum by » Fri May 25, 2012 4:28 am If you want a clean neutral spirit, turbo is an expensive yet poor choice.

• Check out the tried and true section.
• Retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Fri May 25, 2012 4:53 am bruvvamoff wrote: I just worked it out, I’d save just over £1 a wash if I used bakers yeast.
• Hardly seems worth it, but I’m yet to yield my first batch yet.

Early days. Also, elsewhere I’ve heard that bakers yeast can produce unwanted bi-products during fermentation. Your choice. You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can. On the biggest home distilling forum on the net. Trying to give you the best advice they can.

1. Or you can go by the manufactures info.
2. Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can.
3. Now you found the best site on the net for home distilling information.
4. Take advantage of it.
5. Dig in and do the research.
6. That is if you want to make the best drink you can.
7. If you are out to make cheap rocket fuel? Then the path your on is fine.

Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 6:27 am Aah there’s always one abnoxious little know-it-all isn’t there. I always investigate everything thoroughly before making any decisions, and I certainly don’t make snap judgements based on advice purely because of the size of the forum.

As I said, early days. I’ll let you know how it turns out. If I am unhappy I shall certainly try birdwatchers. I don’t argue, I debate. retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Fri May 25, 2012 6:47 am Thanks for the kind words. And glad to hear you like to do thorough research and not make snap judgments before you buy or do.

It’s nice to hear. So many come here that haven’t done enough research. Or want people to spoon feed them what they want to know. Nice to have new member that won’t. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 7:30 am Get used to my questions.

I am shall we say, inquisitive. I certainly need no spoon feeding, I just like to get things right first time. I gather as much info as possible then come to my own conclusions as a scientist would. I have asked nearly 700 questions on yahoo answers, that speaks for itself. Like I said, I’ll share my results.

Thanks again. I don’t argue, I debate. Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:17 am Location: It’s sunny here by » Sat May 26, 2012 5:14 am bruvvamoff wrote: Aah there’s always one abnoxious little know-it-all isn’t there. That’s very trollish? “Patriotism is supporting your country all the time and your government when it deserves it.” -Mark Twain Site Donor Posts: Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:41 pm Location: Great Lake State by » Sat May 26, 2012 5:24 am Uuuuuhhhhh ooooooohhhhhh! Here we go again! It is what you make it forum scribe and editing bitch Posts: Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:14 pm Location: Or-eee-gun by » Sat May 26, 2012 11:13 am Guys I think we may have a bit of a linguistic disconnect here.

• I am assuming from syntax, etc.
• That the OP is not a native English speaker and sometimes that makes wording come across a bit harsh.
• So grain of salt.
• But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer.
• PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

Someone democratically (well, I’m sure there was a bit of nepotism in there somewhere, but MOSTLY democratically) selected to help others when able and in your case now, willing. And unfortunately for you, he has a lot of admirers here, myself being one of them.

• And you’re being just plain old rude.
• When you see these guys respond directly to questions, statements of fact, practices, etc.
• Without pulling any punches it’s because there is a TON of experience to back it all up.
• They’re not criticizing you personally.they just want to make sure you are very clear that there is a better way.and to your benefit.

You have to have a bit of a thick skin here at times.you have to be willing to go through the standard “hazing” that occurs when amateurs mix with experts-it is a right of passage and what makes us better men in the long run, provided the spirit is well intentioned.which I assure you it is.

So welcome and I recommend you fall squarely on your sword and try to make amends a bit.otherwise you’re on a bit of a lonely path here. I know these guys will probably give you one pass at least.maybe not. “Well, between Scotch and nothin’, I suppose I’d take Scotch. It’s the nearest thing to good moonshine I can find.” William Faulkner (1897-1962) Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 1:16 pm rad14701 wrote: bruvvamoff wrote: Get used to my questions.

I am shall we say, inquisitive. I certainly need no spoon feeding, I just like to get things right first time. I gather as much info as possible then come to my own conclusions as a scientist would. I have asked nearly 700 questions on yahoo answers, that speaks for itself.

• Like I said, I’ll share my results.
• Thanks again.
• Sounds more like a pain in the ass that wants answers without researching.
• Ever consider that the first answer someone gives you may not be the correct one.??? Go forth and research and you’ll learn more than you expected to.
• In fact you’ll learn answers to questions you don’t even know you have yet.700 Yahoo Answers questions.??? I rest my case.

Researching and questioning go hand in hand. I have no local library, and every google search brings me back to this darn place. What choice do I have? I don’t argue, I debate. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 1:23 pm Frosteecat wrote: Guys I think we may have a bit of a linguistic disconnect here.

1. I am assuming from syntax, etc.
2. That the OP is not a native English speaker and sometimes that makes wording come across a bit harsh.
3. So grain of salt.
4. But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer.
5. PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

Someone democratically (well, I’m sure there was a bit of nepotism in there somewhere, but MOSTLY democratically) selected to help others when able and in your case now, willing. And unfortunately for you, he has a lot of admirers here, myself being one of them.

• And you’re being just plain old rude.
• When you see these guys respond directly to questions, statements of fact, practices, etc.
• Without pulling any punches it’s because there is a TON of experience to back it all up.
• They’re not criticizing you personally.they just want to make sure you are very clear that there is a better way.and to your benefit.

You have to have a bit of a thick skin here at times.you have to be willing to go through the standard “hazing” that occurs when amateurs mix with experts-it is a right of passage and what makes us better men in the long run, provided the spirit is well intentioned.which I assure you it is.

• So welcome and I recommend you fall squarely on your sword and try to make amends a bit.otherwise you’re on a bit of a lonely path here.
• I know these guys will probably give you one pass at least.maybe not.
• I think maybe I’m in the wrong place to be asking these questions.
• If it’s rude to question and analyse responses then I will certainly drive you all crazy because I take noones word for anything, neither accept an answer based on status.

I like to debate, it solidifies theories and proves the efficiency of methods. If this behavious isn’t the norm in here then I’ll take my sceptical self elsewhere. I don’t argue, I debate. forum scribe and editing bitch Posts: Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:14 pm Location: Or-eee-gun by » Sat May 26, 2012 3:17 pm It’s not a question of asking or debating.

That goes on all the time. It’s a question of calling a mentor obnoxious when he was trying to help initially and then got fed up and used a little sarcasm. No one denies your right to ask, disagree, etc. But the unpaid volunteers here are trying to elevate and maintain craft distilling at a high level.

If they quietly let people use inferior products when there are better solutions available, or didn’t tell you that plastic, rubber, glass, etc. can be hazards, they aren’t really doing their job. I’m going to assume your earlier retort to PP was not intended to be as asinine as it sounded and give you the benefit of the doubt.but just chill out and be able to be taught.and the first quality of a good student is humility.followed closely by respect.

1. And I’m not talking about status based or heirarchical abeyance.I’m talking about any truth seeker’s respect for the more learned.
2. When the student is ready the Master appears”.
3. Well, between Scotch and nothin’, I suppose I’d take Scotch.
4. It’s the nearest thing to good moonshine I can find.” William Faulkner (1897-1962) Novice Posts: Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:16 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 3:57 pm +1 frost I’m prety new to this whole thing too, and when I went off the path I got some razzing and even a bit of what fealt like being called stupid.

You know why? Because I was being stupid, Mr Piss and Rad are always the first to jump in and give good, solid advise. If you listen you’ll learn somthing. For a nutral have a look at Bird Watchers and Winoes plain ‘ol sugar wash also Rad’s All Bran pecipe is out standing when refluxed but in my opinion better from the pot still. Posts: Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:41 pm Location: Great Lake State by » Mon May 28, 2012 7:25 pm As I was taught, if you know the answers dont ask the questions, if you dont know the answers ask the questions and shut your mouth,open your ears and listen to what you are told.

• You may not agree 100% of the time or have a different way of thinking about it but, in the beginning you had no clue, because you asked the question to begin with.
• Do you follow? All n all don’t ask if you dont want to know ones answer.
• It is what you make it Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Tue May 29, 2012 10:52 pm whiskeytripping wrote: This gentleman seems to be getting off to a good start making friends quickly Yeah I have that effect on people I don’t argue, I debate.

Novice Posts: Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:23 pm by » Sun Jul 15, 2012 3:01 am bruvvamoff, i can relate to how your coming at this hobby, but not with the way your caoming across to this forum and the pros here. I dont know all the big players here etc but i have been on here a few years, asked stupid questions to begin with, researched reserched researched, asked more stupid questions and sometimes not believed the answers.

Partly because the long term members standard response seems to just be ‘go to tried and true section, do not pass go, do not collect $200 dollars” Having learnt more i can see why they say that, but for someone asking ‘why do ya’all hate this turbo stuff seems like a miracle!’ then just saying ‘go here and read’ doesnt seem like much of an answer.

If you made the turbo and you liked the results, well, no need for this forum. If you want to try more and your open to learning new things, for a laugh then id say try essencia super 6. Its another yeast pack with nutrients in it, but slower fermenting, and if you can muster up the strength to ignore the 6kg suggestion on the packet and just do 5, well the results for me were waaay better than the turbos id done before.

1. Like you id done my homework, and like you hadnt found enough to put me off trying it out for myself first hand.
2. I didnt feel the need to tell the good people on here that they were wrong and could stick it, but i did feel the need to try it for myself.
3. SO a couple runs of turbo classic, then asking the brew shop about making a cleaner nicer spirit led me to essencia super 6.

Much better than turbo classic, even with 5kg in the turbo classic was still bad by comparison. essencia had a good couple bottles worth in the middle with next to no smell or taste to it. Im continuing my experimentation and have a birdwatchers wash on at the moment along with a basic rum, im hoping for good results and im glad i have a base to compare them to, and i can appreciate what everyone on here is talking about when they advise against using turbos.

For convenience id use the essencia super 6 again, and im trying to steer my friends that dont do any research and only use turbos towards trying the essencia even just once, so they can get better results for the same price and effort. For the record doing two washes of birdwatchers comes in at the same price as a single run of turbo, doing the same size washes.

Turbo yeasts must be cheap as chips where you are for the difference to be so small. Just throwing my own $0.02 in there with my first hand experience, your mileage may vary, i see its been a month and a half on this topic so you might have done another six lots of turbo since then, or maybe youv already tried a birdwatcher for yourself, i dont know.

1. Sharing is caring so there it is Novice Posts: Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:34 am Location: Standing on or above this rung.
2. By » Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:27 pm Prairiepiss wrote: Your choice.
3. You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can.
4. On the biggest home distilling forum on the net.

Trying to give you the best advice they can. Or you can go by the manufactures info. Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can. : wtf: LOL, that’s going in my sig. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:23 am AnOniiMouse wrote: Prairiepiss wrote: Your choice.

1. You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can.
2. On the biggest home distilling forum on the net.
3. Trying to give you the best advice they can.
4. Or you can go by the manufactures info.
5. Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can.
6. Wtf: LOL, that’s going in my sig.
7. I’ve tried birdwatcher three times now and created rank tasting crap every time, and only 2 litres of it.

I’m not disputing the recipe, it’s certainly something I’m doing wrong. I threw a party recently and everyone was drinking my latest turbo run, no complaints. Either each and every one of my friends have no taste buds or. turbo shine isn’t as bad as people like to make out. Posts: Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:39 pm by » Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:05 am “But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer. PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

Someone democratically (well, I’m sure there was a bit of nepotism in there somewhere, but MOSTLY democratically) selected to help others when able and in your case now, willing.” ++1 I have made over a hundred runs through my pot still, but would still defer to PP’s knowledge of hobbyist distilling.

The OP would do well to listen to him and other experienced and knowledgeable members of this Forum. BG Site Donor Posts: Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:37 pm Location: colorado high rockies by » Sun Aug 03, 2014 1:03 pm I used to drink the shit out of some turbo’s back in the day. Of course I used to drink the shit out of Kentucky Deluxe too. I’m not ashamed because I didn’t know better.

• If you split it into two buckets instead of one with like 3 gallons of water in each one that helps it stay cooler in temp.
• As the boys said it’s just jet fuel and at the time that was new and novel me.
• And i drank the shit out of it and so did my friends.
• On ocasion.
• However that being said no body ever asked me to give them a jar of that swill to take to a wedding or give as a present.

you will see all these guys don’t tell you to keep it under 12% for no reason. ETOH. yes plz Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:54 pm Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum by » Mon Aug 04, 2014 4:32 am bruvvamoff wrote: Is this how one reuses mash? I distill the mash till it’s dead, then tip it back into my fermenting bucket.

1. I add another pack of yeast, another 6KG sugar, and top up to 25L with water and wait another week.
2. Using more than 25% back-set can cause pH problems.
3. Especially in a sugar wash.
4. There isn’t enough grain in a sugar-head to buffer the pH.
5. Recipes such as Uncle Jessie and sweet feed have grain added to the sugar wash.

Personal, I only use back-set in all grain mashes. The enzymes need an acidic environment to convert the starch into sugar and back-set is good for this. The “lees” left over spent yeast in the bottom of the fermenter can be reused by adding more water and sugar, or as an ingredient in a yeast bomb.