How Do You Run Moonshine Twice?

What is the double distillation method?

Distillation Definition – Distillation is a widely used method for separating mixtures based on differences in the conditions required to change the phase of components of the mixture. To separate a mixture of liquids, the liquid can be heated to force components, which have different boiling points, into the gas phase,

The gas is then condensed back into liquid form and collected. Repeating the process on the collected liquid to improve the purity of the product is called double distillation. Although the term is most commonly applied to liquids, the reverse process can be used to separate gases by liquefying components using changes in temperature and/or pressure.

A plant that performs distillation is called a distillery, The apparatus used to perform distillation is called a still,

Are there foreshots on a second distill?

There are essentially two ways of explaining distillation, either in detail, or not.The latter approach was traditionally preferred by some stillmen, which explains why eager young recruits asking them,”How does it work?”would be told,”It goes in there, and it comes out there, laddie.” Well yes, it does, but there’s plenty to discuss about what happens inbetween.The spirit charge (ie.

liquid to be distilled within the spirit still) is a combination of low wines (the result of the first distillation) together with foreshots and feints, which are the initial and concluding stages of the preceding second distillation.Teaming up specific wash stills and spirit stills that have a balanced ratio,where for example the low wines from one wash still are combined with the foreshots and feints from one spirit still, prior to being re-distilled in the same spirit still, is a standard approach termed ‘balanced distillation.’ An alternative option, known as ‘unbalanced distillation,’means collecting a certain volume of low wines from a number of wash stills, which is blended with a specific volume of foreshots and feints from a number of spirit stills.Consequently, a consistent new make spirit is maintained by using the same volumes.The alcoholic strength of the low wines is typically about 23 to 25% abv, while the foreshots and feints are around 30% abv.When combined this gives a spirit charge of around 24-28% abv.”Foreshots and feints is great recycling.This allows you to reach the strength required during distillation, and also promotes a more consistent distillation,”says Alan Winchester of Chivas Bros.Derek Sinclair of Inver House adds:”The spirit charge needs to reach a certain alcoholic strength, which is important for the flavour profile, as if you just distilled low wines you’d get a different flavour profile.” Some distilleries pre-heat the spirit charge before it reaches the spirit still,by conducting the spent lees (residue of the second distillation) from the still through a heat exchanger.The remaining heat of the spent lees after distillation is transferred to the spirit charge, which passes through the heat exchanger on its way into the spirit still.This practicality saves energy, and the time it takes to begin distilling.”Heating low wines and feints using heat transfer from the spent lees also reduces the temperature of the effluent,making it easier to dispose of, as there are restrictions on the temperature at which you can discharge effluent, so it’s a win, win solution.But none of this would be done if pre-heating affected the spirit quality,”says Highland Park’s Russell Anderson.The still charge typically fills two-thirds of the boil pot (the base of the still), which also determines the amount of copper that the vapours can come into contact with during distillation.This is a significant factor as copper absorbs sulphurous compounds present within the vapours during distillation, and consequently reduces the level of ‘meaty, rubber,’ characteristics.As this also helps to reveal the underlying congeners, including esters, within the vapours, the level of copper contact helps to determine the character of the new make spirit.Moreover, this surface area hardly remains at a fixed amount throughout the process.”The moment you start collecting vapour you’re not replacing it with liquid, so the dynamic of the spirit still changes as the level of liquid reduces,and the amount of copper surface area increases.

It’s very complex in its method of working, as a different amount of copper surface area is being revealed,”says Winchester.Spirit stills are generally heated using steam, with Glenfarclas being among the minority using direct-fired stills.”We have a multi-fuel burner and can use oil or gas to produce a naked flame.The base of the still is thicker as you’re heating copper, rather than the liquid inside the still.

A big, circular flame means that heat travels around the still and creates even contact across the base of the still, to avoid creating any hot spots,”says Shane Fraser of Glenfarclas.Taller stills promote a higher degree of reflux, and so the progress of lighter notes.That’s because heavier flavour compounds have a higher boiling point than lighter flavour compounds, and when ascending a taller still the temperature becomes relatively cooler, causing heavier flavours to condense and return to the base of the still.However, the influence of still size and shape is also mitigated by the rate of distillation.More intense heat for example increases the rate of distillation, which also decreases the level of reflux.”I’d say the flow rate of distillation is as important, if not more important than the size and shape of the still,”says Ian Renwick of Glenturret.The second distillation begins with foreshots, which initially come over at a relatively lower alcoholic strength,before the strength rises.This reflects the fact that foreshots contain a certain amount of what came before.”You’re cleaning out residue of the previous distillation, it’s almost like cleaning the pipe work,”says Derek Sinclair.When to start collecting new make spirit is based on various tests.This includes demisting, which means combining equal parts of the distillate with water.

If this liquid turns cloudy, then the distiller will stay on foreshots. If the liquid remains clear, the distiller can start collecting the spirit cut.However, this is only one option, and used in conjunction with a hydrometer and thermometer, as well as knowing how many minutes it usually takes to get through the foreshots.”We use demisting just before we expect to start collecting spirit, and if it’s not clear we keep checking every minute, or if it’s very cloudy then every five minutes.Then you take the alcoholic strength and temperature, and that get’s written up in the log,”says Shane Fraser.Meanwhile,Derek Sinclair adds, “We check the alcoholic strength manually with a hydrometer,and use a thermometer to check the temperature, though it’s more or less done on time, as we always use the same steam pressure to heat the stills.” The spirit cut is typically collected at an average of around 70% abv, which means starting to collect spirit from around 75% abv down to around 65% abv, though this obviously varies among distilleries.Fruitier notes including apples and pears, are far more evident at a relatively higher strength, with an increase in heavier, oilier notes as the strength decreases.Whether fruit notes diminish during distillation, or become concealed by progressively heavier notes, is one consideration.But the answer depends on who you ask, as there are proponents of both views.Another consideration is when do phenols first start coming through, and how do they vary during the course of distillation ?”Phenols come across during the entire distillation run,and increase as the alcoholic strength diminishes, but of course it’s not as straightforward as that, with the majority of phenols coming across later in the distillation run, in particular the feints.The cut point between foreshots and spirit is equally as important as the cut point between spirit and feints, as any change in this will change the profile of your spirit character.The accuracy of the spirit cut is so vital,”says Russell Anderson.Collecting spirit may take between two to five hours, depending on the distillery.When to stop collecting new make spirit depends of course on each distillery’s house style,though around 65% abv is average.”The switch to feints is done on the basis of alcoholic strength,and as soon as we come off spirit we increase the steam pressure,and so the rate of distillation.”At the tail end of the run you’ve taken off the spirit, and so it’s just a case of getting all the alcohol out and getting the job done,”says Derek Sinclair.Even though increasing the rate of distillation is standard practise, it can still take around four to six hours to distill feints,down to a final strength of around 1.5% abv.While each distillery has its own particular distilling regime, each of the three malts produced at Springbank distillery has an individual approach.

Why is a second distilling process needed?

In the first part of our series on Scottish pot stills we dealt comprehensively with their geometrical shape and their production, This article deals with operating the stills. Of course different distilleries operate their stills differently. Some heat fast and then distil slowly, others heat and distil fast. Glenfiddich – Still House The following chart shows the principal setup of a Scottish Malt Whisky distillery with two pot stills. Distilleries with three pot stills and triple distillation are extended by one step correspondingly. Many large distilleries have four, six or more pot stills, which aren’t operated in series but in parallel.

The connection of the pot stills can be even more complex, if for example the first distillate from several wash stills or from several production cycles is led into a single spirit still, A ratio of 3:2 or 4:3 of wash stills to spirit stills is also common. You can also triple distil with two pot stills by distilling the final product of the second distillation again in the emptied spirit still,

The chart shows a simple distillery with a wash still and a spirit still, Functional Chart of a Pot Still Distillery The principle of distillation was already known to the ancient Egyptians. Different evaporation points allow for the separation of substances by heating. The substances that evaporate first at low temperatures may be collected and separated from the rest.

But the Egyptians used distillation only for producing perfume. Only in the middle ages Celtic monks discovered the production of Whisky – the water of life, Through alcoholic fermentation the wash ( beer ) contains approximately 8% to 10% alcohol (ethanol = ethyl alcohol). The alcoholic strength is determined by the yeast used and the duration of the fermentation,

When heating the wash, the substances with a lower boiling point than water evaporate with rising temperatures. The wash can’t be heated further than up to the evaporation point of the lowest-boiling substance. All heat energy is absorbed by the substance that changes its aggregate state (from liquid to vaporous), and the liquid can’t be heated further. Royal Lochnagar – Wash Still The wash still has a simple task: It is used for the first distillation of the wash, or in plain English: the beer, The capacity of the stills and the wash backs is usually coordinated.4000 US. Gal. (15,000 L) to 8000 US. Gal.

(30,000 L) are most common. When hot steam is led into the heating cylinders, the wash still starts to heat the wash, Through the heat movement (convection) inside the still the wash is turned. The wash rises along the warm areas of the cylinders and sinks back along the cooler areas. After some 30 minutes it gets interesting: Above the heating cylinders the liquid starts to boil, and light substances (predominantly flavour -carrying esters) rise into the air above the liquid level.

The constant supply of gaseous substances leads to a slight overpressure in the still, and the gases rise into the neck of the still. But they don’t get far. The wall of the still is still too cold, and the evaporated substances condense at the wall. As time goes by more and more droplets accumulate at the wall and form bigger drops that flow back into the pot. Macallan – Inspection Window of a Wash Still That’s why wash stills have small windows in the neck, through which the bubbling wash can be watched. For if the boiling temperature of the wash is too high, liquid can get into the condenser via the lyne arm,

This wouldn’t be so bad if the wash didn’t contain solid parts of the barley grains, which clog the thin pipes of the condensers. Therefore the stillman must be watchful. Distilleries that don’t have the time for watching the boiling put soap into the wash, which destroys the surface tension of the wash and prevents it from boiling over.

Since the soap liquefies at 122-140°F (50-60°C) and only boils at temperatures far exceeding 212°F (100°C), no soap molecules can get into the distillate. The first distillation in the wash stills takes approximately 4 to 7 hours. The wash still has a temperature of approximately 173°F (78°C), the evaporation point of ethanol. Mannochmore Low Wines & Spirit Receiver However, the low wines receiver doesn’t contain only alcohol but also all substances with a lower boiling point than alcohol, as well as some substances with a higher boiling point. They have been torn out of the molecule groups by the bubbling liquid and have been pulled into the low wines receiver together with the light alcohol molecules.

Among these molecules is also plenty of water, which forms an azeotrope with the alcohol. After the first distillation the low wines typically have an alcohol content of 20% to 25%. After distillation the pot ale (also called spent wash ) remains in the wash still, It has a residual alcohol content of approximately 1%.

However, not only alcohol but also valuable proteins and minerals from the barley grains remain in the pot ale, That’s why after emptying the still the pot ale is concentrated through evaporation and sold as high-quality animal feed. Glenfarclas – Concentration System for Pot Ale Since the large pot stills only have a wall thickness of a few millimetres (ca.3/16″) they are very sensitive to overpressure and negative pressure. The worst-case scenario is therefore the collapse of a still caused by negative pressure.

When the distillation has been stopped, the pot ale is drained and the pot still cools down, negative pressure is created inside. If it becomes too high the pot still implodes with a loud bang. Since this happened more than once in the past, every pot still now has an automated pressure relief valve that keeps the pressure balance with the environment.

For filling and draining the stills, there’s another vent valve, which is usually operated simultaneously with the pumps. Fettercairn – Automated Pressure Relief Valve (Top) and Manual Vent Valve (Bottom) The table below shows the distillation balance of a wash still distillation,

The figures in the distillation balance show that the reduction of the water volume from the wash to the low wines significantly reduces the second distillation volume for the spirit still, In summary, the sole purpose of the first distillation is to reduce the liquid volume by 1/3 and to remove the solid parts of the grains that are still in the wash, Royal Lochnagar – Spirit Still The second distillation in the smaller spirit stills is carried out much more carefully and slowly. It typically takes approximately 8 hours. Since this takes double as long as the first distillation, often the result of two wash still distillations is collected in the low wines receiver and filled into the spirit still as a whole. Dallas Dhu – Pot Ale Receiver (Spent Wash Tank) & Heat Exchanger As described in the first part of this article, the spirit still has the bigger influence on the taste of the new make spirit, The second distillation is carried out much more carefully so the alcohol and the flavour substances can be separated more effectively from the water, Functional Chart of a Pot Still Distillery In the past, the so-called Worm Tubs were used to cool the spirit after distillation in the Pot Still, A Worm Tub is constructed as follows: The Lyne arm of the still is simply continued as a conduit and placed in the form of a spiral in a tub filled with cooling water,

In this way the Spirit cools down while it is passed on. However, this is a rather complex process that requires a lot of maintenance. For this reason, many distilleries no longer use this type of cooling, but prefer the so-called ‘shell and tube condensers’. These modern heat exchangers are much more space-saving and easier to handle.

In some distilleries you can still find the traditional worm tubs, for example at Lagavulin on Islay or Balmenach in the Highlands. Many do not want to do without their worm tubs despite the higher maintenance costs, as this type of cooling can also have a positive effect on the character of the distillery character,

Due to the increased copper contact and the temperature control of the water in the tub, the result is a heavier and spicier new make spirit, Since the aggressive foreshots are unwanted in the new make spirit, they are redirected in the spirit safe and not led into the spirit receiver, The functional chart from above is shown again to illustrate the function of the spirit safe,

This spirit safe has a long history and a special function. Under British law all pot stills and pipework must be padlocked. So the stillman cannot taste the spirit. Then how is he supposed to know when the foreshots have run through and the desired middle cut has started? Glenfarclas – Spirit Safe with Hydrometers and Thermometers The first thing experience teaches a stillman is the time needed to heat the still until the middle cut appears. Since thousands of gallons/litres must be heated to more than 158°F (70°C), it takes some time until the first spirit runs through the spirit safe,

Then the foreshots run for about 20 minutes. In order to determine the right moment to switch the spirit flow so the middle cut can be collected, the spirit safe contains several glass boxes in which the spirit can be collected and instruments start to swim. If you measure the density of the spirit with a hydrometer you can determine its alcohol content with a chart.

While the foreshots are running, the alcohol content of the spirit sinks from approximately 85% to 75%. Glenfarclas – Spirit Safe with Switches for the Spirit Flow Yet this is not the only instrument that must be monitored. The density of the liquid depends heavily on its temperature. So the temperature is also measured in order to rectify the density. With density and temperature measured, the stillman can then read the alcohol content off a chart hanging next to the spirit safe.

What happens to the foreshots ? They aren’t poured away but led back into the low wines receiver. However, the foreshots aren’t enriched by this constant reflux, This is where the real magic of distillation happens. The aggressive foreshots are transformed into enjoyable aromatic substances through catalytic reactions with the copper of the spirit still.

This is a continuous process, and the quantity of foreshots remains constant in the spirit still, After the foreshots have reached the low wines receiver, the stillman changes the flow direction in the spirit safe and leads the middle cut into the spirit receiver, Aberfeldy – Spirit Receiver and Filling of Casks The distillation of the middle cut must be carried out slowly and carefully. If the spirit still is heated too much, the reflux of condensing substances with a higher boiling point at the wall of the still is prevented.

Therefore fusel oils can pass the lyne arm and get into the spirit receiver, While the middle cut is being collected, which takes approximately three hours, the alcohol content falls from 75% to 60%. But even after switching at 60% abv, the distillation continues. The fusel oils ( faints ) that appear now are led back into the low wines receiver where they are again catalytically transformed by the copper during the next distillation run.

The distillation of the faints goes on for a long time and is only halted when a residual alcohol content of 1% is reached so no valuable alcohol is lost with the liquid remaining in the spirit still (called spent lees). You don’t often get the chance to view a low wines receiver from the inside.

It contains a milky grey-white mix of alcohol and water on which the thin, oily layer of faints swims. The distillation process is now complete. The distillation balance for the second distillation in the chart below shows the emerging quantity of new make spirit, In our example of 7925 gal. us. (30.000 L) of wash with 10% abv, the resulting quantity of 734 gal.

us. (2.780 litres) of alcohol means a yield of 92.6%.

Particularly interesting in the balance are the faints and foreshots that are led back for redistillation. They increase the amount of liquid of the low wines as well as their alcohol content, Since they are a transit item appearing in every new distillation, they are neglected in the balance.

This initially confusing fact is the reason why the alcohol content of the low wines is alternately stated between 20% and 27% in technical publications or when mentioned in a distillery, For the balance in our example we simply assumed an average content of 25% in the first distillation run and 67.5% in the second run.

In our example the spent lees amount to 30% of the volume of the first distillate. This is, like all the figures in the balances, just an educated guess. If you want to know more about the production of pot stills follow this link, Once the distillation is completed, the raw distillate is obtained.

This distillate is turned into Whisky (or Whiskey ) by being matured in casks for at least three years (USA: two years). Just as the minimum maturation period differs in Great Britain and the USA, so does the name for the raw distillate. In Scotland and co it is called ‘ New Make Spirit ‘. In the USA the term ‘ White Dog ‘ has become established.

It is not known where the term comes from, but it was probably used by the first American settlers. ‘White’ certainly because the spirit does not take on a brown colour without cask maturation, Where the ‘dog’ comes from is not known. Some American distilleries even sell their ‘ White Dog ‘ without cask maturation or an ageing period for only a few days or weeks.

• These products are called, for example, ‘White Whiskey ‘, ‘White Lightning’ or ‘Legal Moonshine’.
• The term ‘moonshine’ contains something quite illegal per se.
• Moonshining is the illegal, domestic production and smuggling of spirits.
• As this used to take place mostly at night under the ‘moonlight’, the resulting distillate is called Moonshine.

In Europe it is not allowed to sell a spirit under the name ‘ Whisky ‘ unless it has been stored in casks for at least three years. But in the USA, many distilleries have seen a chance in selling their ‘ White Dog ‘ to make up for the revenue shortfall until they can sell the first Whiskey, which has matured for years.

Can I pause distillation?

The distillation can be paused at any time by selecting the Pause button. Once paused, the distillation can be Aborted or Resumed.

What happens if you put too much sugar in moonshine mash?

There’s too much sugar for the yeast strain you’re using. – The reason why you use sugar in a mash is basically because your yeast consumes the sugar, converting it into alcohol. So it’s easy to assume that more sugar = more alcohol. However, too much sugar in your mash can actually hinder your yeast’s ability to make alcohol, and most people want to get as high an alcohol content as possible when making moonshine.

What happens if you mash out for too long?

can you mash to long? some of the recipes call for 45min mash. at 154 degrees.but i will mash 25 min longer to make sure i converted all the starch to sugars.does that hurt the mash at all? The purpose of the mash is to allow you, the brewer, to present the sugar profile you desire in the fermenter to make the beer you designed.

At 45 min starch conversion is (almost, don’t worry about it) always converted to sugar, “Conversion” complete. After conversion the enzymes are still hard at work breaking long chain (non-fermentable) sugars into short chain (fermentable) sugars. All this action is controlled mostly by temp and time.

The 154F mash temp indicates that you wish to make a beer that has a residual sweetness. The “extra” 25 minutes will tend to lessen this somewhat, and there is nothing wrong with that!!! I have mashed beers for 4 hrs, some brewers mash overnight. There is really no hurting the mash, there is really no “wrong” way there are different actions that change the character of the resulting beer.

• The bottom line is how does the beer taste? Fred I agree 100%.
• There is no single best way to mash, sparge, lauter, boil, cool, or ferment.
• Some of your options are relatively fixed, and depend on the equipment you have, and the true variables depend on the beer you want to create with that batch.
• The only way you can mash for too long is if you let it go sour.

This will generally happen within 24-48 hours. But with a large mash (the one I am talking about was 2,400lbs) I have seen it happen in as little as 8 hours. So unless you’re making Jack Daniels, don’t let it sit for too, too long. Darin In food service they say that the “Danger Zone” is between 40 and 140 degrees, and anything kept at such temperatures for more than four hours is to be suspect.

Keep it under four hours and you should be OK. As long your tempreture is within a few degrees of your desired temp (154) then time shouldn’t matter. If the recipe is calling for 45 minutes and you were to mash for 70 just to feel like you are sure then I say run with it. Remember, it is your recipe now bummer.

lol. I talked to a brewer at Stone Brewing Company, and he told me that they tried starting the lauter immediately after mash in was complete on a batch of Arrogant Bastard. He told me that they got nearly the exact same efficiency as with a 45 minute mash schedule.

1. I’ve never tried this myself, but I have gone with a 30 minute mash with no problems.
2. Darin What about mashing overnight? If I want a full bodied beer and I mash in at 156-158 and then go to bed and wake up the next morning to finish up, assuming the mash didn’t fall below 140 what will that do to the character of the beer and is there a problem with letting it rest for 8 hours? I think I know based on my thread from yesterday and Fred’s answers but I’d like to see if mashing overnight is really a viable option? thanks WR There are many brewers that mash overnight, and going below 140F is not the end of the world.

There are many, many bugs on the grain, but nothing will grow in beer that will kill you, has to do with the pH of beer. My suggestion is to try it and see what you get, adjust your process from there. Fred Going below 140 isn’t the end of the world, but it does invite contamination.

I will never mash overnight because I prefer a low bodied beer from a mash that is between 145 and 150. Such mashes, overnight, without properly insulated equipment, invite infection. I suppose if you have a well insulated mash tun, and you want a full bodied beer, that starting a mash in the high 150s and leaving it overnight would leave a full bodied mash sitting in the 145 or so degree range with minimal bacteria growing in it.

I wouldn’t do it. Last two times I tried overnight mashing I ended up with foamy sour bacterial nastiness. : can you mash to long?

How many times can you reuse mash?

Home Distiller Production methods from starch to sugars. Moderator: Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Wed May 23, 2012 10:13 pm Hi Everyone Beginner here, be nice. I’m making a batch of ethanol using 6kg white sugar, 21L water and one pack of yeast.

(total 25L) Apparently one can reuse the left over slop in the still up to 8 times, which begs my first question.1) If the yeast and sugar reacted correctly then there shouldn’t be any of either in the left over mash. Why reuse it? And if there is a good reason for someone distilling the cleanest ethanol possible to reuse it then here is my second question.2) Is this how one reuses mash? I distill the mash till it’s dead, then tip it back into my fermenting bucket.

I add another pack of yeast, another 6KG sugar, and top up to 25L with water and wait another week. I don’t argue, I debate. Angel’s Share Posts: Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:07 pm Location: up north by » Thu May 24, 2012 4:37 am “one can reuse the left over slop in the still up to 8 times” why,I guess you could if you was short on water,leave that for rum /whiskey brewers. but you can reuse the yeast from the fermenter (see UJSSM) Site Donor Posts: Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 4:00 pm Location: Paradise by » Thu May 24, 2012 4:46 am go over to the tried and true section and run of those recipes. You will be thankful. Sugar + water + yeast=etoh but the yeast need nutrients. The recipes over there are reproducible and come out great.

I like Wineos but its a slow ferment. No sense reinvinting the wheel. retired Posts: Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:40 pm Location: The Ol’ North State by » Thu May 24, 2012 5:15 am X2, 6K is too much sugar for 25L to make good spirits. the yeast will likely stress and produce off-flavors, and the ferment may even stall.

should be more like 5K max, but as rgarry said you need something else in there for the yeasts health, so swing over to the tried n true recipes and have a look. NChooch Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat. retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Thu May 24, 2012 7:25 am Spent mash = backset or in case of rum dunder.

• That will give you something to search for.
• But I wouldn’t use it for a neutral.
• Reuse the yeast in the fermenter could be useful.
• But in the case of a neutral backset would add flavors you are trying to get rid of.
• Tried and true recipe section.
• And it would be nice if you stepped over to the welcome center and introduced yourself.

Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Thu May 24, 2012 8:09 pm Prairy, you are right. How rude of me. I’ll go ahead and do that now. Thanks everyone else for the input. Kinda what I thought, pure spirit is better with a fresh wash every time.

And as for the sugar, 6kg is what the yeast recommends. I followed all instructions and it’s bubbling away on day 5. I don’t argue, I debate. Rumrunner Posts: Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:03 pm Location: Mississippi by » Thu May 24, 2012 8:30 pm ahhh turbo! check out “tried and true” for sure,u can get rid of that expensive turbo yeast and use plain ol bakers yeast.Gerber is a good one fer me! 3′ Essential Extractor PSII High Capacity (Brewhaus) on gas,recirculating 60 gal olive barrel for cooling Employ your time in improving yourself by other men’s writings, so that you shall gain easily what others have labored hard for ~ Socrates Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 12:55 am I just worked it out, I’d save just over £1 a wash if I used bakers yeast.

Hardly seems worth it, but I’m yet to yield my first batch yet. Early days. Also, elsewhere I’ve heard that bakers yeast can produce unwanted bi-products during fermentation. I don’t argue, I debate. Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:54 pm Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum by » Fri May 25, 2012 4:28 am If you want a clean neutral spirit, turbo is an expensive yet poor choice.

• Check out the tried and true section.
• Retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Fri May 25, 2012 4:53 am bruvvamoff wrote: I just worked it out, I’d save just over £1 a wash if I used bakers yeast.
• Hardly seems worth it, but I’m yet to yield my first batch yet.

Early days. Also, elsewhere I’ve heard that bakers yeast can produce unwanted bi-products during fermentation. Your choice. You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can. On the biggest home distilling forum on the net. Trying to give you the best advice they can.

Or you can go by the manufactures info. Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can. Now you found the best site on the net for home distilling information. Take advantage of it. Dig in and do the research. That is if you want to make the best drink you can. If you are out to make cheap rocket fuel? Then the path your on is fine.

Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 6:27 am Aah there’s always one abnoxious little know-it-all isn’t there. I always investigate everything thoroughly before making any decisions, and I certainly don’t make snap judgements based on advice purely because of the size of the forum.

• As I said, early days.
• I’ll let you know how it turns out.
• If I am unhappy I shall certainly try birdwatchers.
• I don’t argue, I debate.
• Retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Fri May 25, 2012 6:47 am Thanks for the kind words.
• And glad to hear you like to do thorough research and not make snap judgments before you buy or do.

It’s nice to hear. So many come here that haven’t done enough research. Or want people to spoon feed them what they want to know. Nice to have new member that won’t. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 7:30 am Get used to my questions.

I am shall we say, inquisitive. I certainly need no spoon feeding, I just like to get things right first time. I gather as much info as possible then come to my own conclusions as a scientist would. I have asked nearly 700 questions on yahoo answers, that speaks for itself. Like I said, I’ll share my results.

Thanks again. I don’t argue, I debate. Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:17 am Location: It’s sunny here by » Sat May 26, 2012 5:14 am bruvvamoff wrote: Aah there’s always one abnoxious little know-it-all isn’t there. That’s very trollish? “Patriotism is supporting your country all the time and your government when it deserves it.” -Mark Twain Site Donor Posts: Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:41 pm Location: Great Lake State by » Sat May 26, 2012 5:24 am Uuuuuhhhhh ooooooohhhhhh! Here we go again! It is what you make it forum scribe and editing bitch Posts: Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:14 pm Location: Or-eee-gun by » Sat May 26, 2012 11:13 am Guys I think we may have a bit of a linguistic disconnect here.

• I am assuming from syntax, etc.
• That the OP is not a native English speaker and sometimes that makes wording come across a bit harsh.
• So grain of salt.
• But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer.
• PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

Someone democratically (well, I’m sure there was a bit of nepotism in there somewhere, but MOSTLY democratically) selected to help others when able and in your case now, willing. And unfortunately for you, he has a lot of admirers here, myself being one of them.

1. And you’re being just plain old rude.
2. When you see these guys respond directly to questions, statements of fact, practices, etc.
3. Without pulling any punches it’s because there is a TON of experience to back it all up.
4. They’re not criticizing you personally.they just want to make sure you are very clear that there is a better way.and to your benefit.

You have to have a bit of a thick skin here at times.you have to be willing to go through the standard “hazing” that occurs when amateurs mix with experts-it is a right of passage and what makes us better men in the long run, provided the spirit is well intentioned.which I assure you it is.

So welcome and I recommend you fall squarely on your sword and try to make amends a bit.otherwise you’re on a bit of a lonely path here. I know these guys will probably give you one pass at least.maybe not. “Well, between Scotch and nothin’, I suppose I’d take Scotch. It’s the nearest thing to good moonshine I can find.” William Faulkner (1897-1962) Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 1:16 pm rad14701 wrote: bruvvamoff wrote: Get used to my questions.

I am shall we say, inquisitive. I certainly need no spoon feeding, I just like to get things right first time. I gather as much info as possible then come to my own conclusions as a scientist would. I have asked nearly 700 questions on yahoo answers, that speaks for itself.

Like I said, I’ll share my results. Thanks again. Sounds more like a pain in the ass that wants answers without researching. Ever consider that the first answer someone gives you may not be the correct one.??? Go forth and research and you’ll learn more than you expected to. In fact you’ll learn answers to questions you don’t even know you have yet.700 Yahoo Answers questions.??? I rest my case.

Researching and questioning go hand in hand. I have no local library, and every google search brings me back to this darn place. What choice do I have? I don’t argue, I debate. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 1:23 pm Frosteecat wrote: Guys I think we may have a bit of a linguistic disconnect here.

• I am assuming from syntax, etc.
• That the OP is not a native English speaker and sometimes that makes wording come across a bit harsh.
• So grain of salt.
• But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer.
• PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

Someone democratically (well, I’m sure there was a bit of nepotism in there somewhere, but MOSTLY democratically) selected to help others when able and in your case now, willing. And unfortunately for you, he has a lot of admirers here, myself being one of them.

And you’re being just plain old rude. When you see these guys respond directly to questions, statements of fact, practices, etc. without pulling any punches it’s because there is a TON of experience to back it all up. They’re not criticizing you personally.they just want to make sure you are very clear that there is a better way.and to your benefit.

You have to have a bit of a thick skin here at times.you have to be willing to go through the standard “hazing” that occurs when amateurs mix with experts-it is a right of passage and what makes us better men in the long run, provided the spirit is well intentioned.which I assure you it is.

So welcome and I recommend you fall squarely on your sword and try to make amends a bit.otherwise you’re on a bit of a lonely path here. I know these guys will probably give you one pass at least.maybe not. I think maybe I’m in the wrong place to be asking these questions. If it’s rude to question and analyse responses then I will certainly drive you all crazy because I take noones word for anything, neither accept an answer based on status.

I like to debate, it solidifies theories and proves the efficiency of methods. If this behavious isn’t the norm in here then I’ll take my sceptical self elsewhere. I don’t argue, I debate. forum scribe and editing bitch Posts: Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:14 pm Location: Or-eee-gun by » Sat May 26, 2012 3:17 pm It’s not a question of asking or debating.

1. That goes on all the time.
2. It’s a question of calling a mentor obnoxious when he was trying to help initially and then got fed up and used a little sarcasm.
3. No one denies your right to ask, disagree, etc.
4. But the unpaid volunteers here are trying to elevate and maintain craft distilling at a high level.

If they quietly let people use inferior products when there are better solutions available, or didn’t tell you that plastic, rubber, glass, etc. can be hazards, they aren’t really doing their job. I’m going to assume your earlier retort to PP was not intended to be as asinine as it sounded and give you the benefit of the doubt.but just chill out and be able to be taught.and the first quality of a good student is humility.followed closely by respect.

And I’m not talking about status based or heirarchical abeyance.I’m talking about any truth seeker’s respect for the more learned. “When the student is ready the Master appears”. “Well, between Scotch and nothin’, I suppose I’d take Scotch. It’s the nearest thing to good moonshine I can find.” William Faulkner (1897-1962) Novice Posts: Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:16 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 3:57 pm +1 frost I’m prety new to this whole thing too, and when I went off the path I got some razzing and even a bit of what fealt like being called stupid.

You know why? Because I was being stupid, Mr Piss and Rad are always the first to jump in and give good, solid advise. If you listen you’ll learn somthing. For a nutral have a look at Bird Watchers and Winoes plain ‘ol sugar wash also Rad’s All Bran pecipe is out standing when refluxed but in my opinion better from the pot still. Posts: Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:41 pm Location: Great Lake State by » Mon May 28, 2012 7:25 pm As I was taught, if you know the answers dont ask the questions, if you dont know the answers ask the questions and shut your mouth,open your ears and listen to what you are told.

You may not agree 100% of the time or have a different way of thinking about it but, in the beginning you had no clue, because you asked the question to begin with. Do you follow? All n all don’t ask if you dont want to know ones answer. It is what you make it Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Tue May 29, 2012 10:52 pm whiskeytripping wrote: This gentleman seems to be getting off to a good start making friends quickly Yeah I have that effect on people I don’t argue, I debate.

Novice Posts: Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:23 pm by » Sun Jul 15, 2012 3:01 am bruvvamoff, i can relate to how your coming at this hobby, but not with the way your caoming across to this forum and the pros here. I dont know all the big players here etc but i have been on here a few years, asked stupid questions to begin with, researched reserched researched, asked more stupid questions and sometimes not believed the answers.

Partly because the long term members standard response seems to just be ‘go to tried and true section, do not pass go, do not collect $200 dollars” Having learnt more i can see why they say that, but for someone asking ‘why do ya’all hate this turbo stuff seems like a miracle!’ then just saying ‘go here and read’ doesnt seem like much of an answer.

If you made the turbo and you liked the results, well, no need for this forum. If you want to try more and your open to learning new things, for a laugh then id say try essencia super 6. Its another yeast pack with nutrients in it, but slower fermenting, and if you can muster up the strength to ignore the 6kg suggestion on the packet and just do 5, well the results for me were waaay better than the turbos id done before.

Like you id done my homework, and like you hadnt found enough to put me off trying it out for myself first hand. I didnt feel the need to tell the good people on here that they were wrong and could stick it, but i did feel the need to try it for myself. SO a couple runs of turbo classic, then asking the brew shop about making a cleaner nicer spirit led me to essencia super 6.

Much better than turbo classic, even with 5kg in the turbo classic was still bad by comparison. essencia had a good couple bottles worth in the middle with next to no smell or taste to it. Im continuing my experimentation and have a birdwatchers wash on at the moment along with a basic rum, im hoping for good results and im glad i have a base to compare them to, and i can appreciate what everyone on here is talking about when they advise against using turbos.

1. For convenience id use the essencia super 6 again, and im trying to steer my friends that dont do any research and only use turbos towards trying the essencia even just once, so they can get better results for the same price and effort.
2. For the record doing two washes of birdwatchers comes in at the same price as a single run of turbo, doing the same size washes.

Turbo yeasts must be cheap as chips where you are for the difference to be so small. Just throwing my own $0.02 in there with my first hand experience, your mileage may vary, i see its been a month and a half on this topic so you might have done another six lots of turbo since then, or maybe youv already tried a birdwatcher for yourself, i dont know.

• Sharing is caring so there it is Novice Posts: Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:34 am Location: Standing on or above this rung.
• By » Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:27 pm Prairiepiss wrote: Your choice.
• You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can.
• On the biggest home distilling forum on the net.

Trying to give you the best advice they can. Or you can go by the manufactures info. Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can. : wtf: LOL, that’s going in my sig. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:23 am AnOniiMouse wrote: Prairiepiss wrote: Your choice.

1. You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can.
2. On the biggest home distilling forum on the net.
3. Trying to give you the best advice they can.
4. Or you can go by the manufactures info.
5. Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can.
6. Wtf: LOL, that’s going in my sig.
7. I’ve tried birdwatcher three times now and created rank tasting crap every time, and only 2 litres of it.

I’m not disputing the recipe, it’s certainly something I’m doing wrong. I threw a party recently and everyone was drinking my latest turbo run, no complaints. Either each and every one of my friends have no taste buds or. turbo shine isn’t as bad as people like to make out. Posts: Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:39 pm by » Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:05 am “But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer. PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

Someone democratically (well, I’m sure there was a bit of nepotism in there somewhere, but MOSTLY democratically) selected to help others when able and in your case now, willing.” ++1 I have made over a hundred runs through my pot still, but would still defer to PP’s knowledge of hobbyist distilling.

The OP would do well to listen to him and other experienced and knowledgeable members of this Forum. BG Site Donor Posts: Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:37 pm Location: colorado high rockies by » Sun Aug 03, 2014 1:03 pm I used to drink the shit out of some turbo’s back in the day. Of course I used to drink the shit out of Kentucky Deluxe too. I’m not ashamed because I didn’t know better.

1. If you split it into two buckets instead of one with like 3 gallons of water in each one that helps it stay cooler in temp.
2. As the boys said it’s just jet fuel and at the time that was new and novel me.
3. And i drank the shit out of it and so did my friends.
4. On ocasion.
5. However that being said no body ever asked me to give them a jar of that swill to take to a wedding or give as a present.

you will see all these guys don’t tell you to keep it under 12% for no reason. ETOH. yes plz Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:54 pm Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum by » Mon Aug 04, 2014 4:32 am bruvvamoff wrote: Is this how one reuses mash? I distill the mash till it’s dead, then tip it back into my fermenting bucket.

I add another pack of yeast, another 6KG sugar, and top up to 25L with water and wait another week. Using more than 25% back-set can cause pH problems. Especially in a sugar wash. There isn’t enough grain in a sugar-head to buffer the pH. Recipes such as Uncle Jessie and sweet feed have grain added to the sugar wash.

Personal, I only use back-set in all grain mashes. The enzymes need an acidic environment to convert the starch into sugar and back-set is good for this. The “lees” left over spent yeast in the bottom of the fermenter can be reused by adding more water and sugar, or as an ingredient in a yeast bomb.

What happens if you run a mash too early?

What Happens if I Run my Mash too Early? – If you run your mash too early, you run the risk of getting a lower yield of alcohol as the fermentable sugars are not fully converted into ethanol. You also run the risk of your mash boiling over during the distillation process because of the sugar present in the mash.

What happens when you rerun moonshine?

Distill It Twice – Although it takes longer, distilling your moonshine twice will likely have a positive effect on its flavor. As long as you aren’t in a hurry to produce a batch of moonshine, run it through your still a second time. Doing so will help to filter out any impurities that may create an unpleasant flavor.

Gaspar Aparicio