Why Is The Condenser So Long When Making Moonshine?

What size is the condenser on moonshine stills?

Choose Your Size – Our standard coil size for condensers is 3/8″ OD. You can increase to 1/2″ OD by selecting that option.2.5 thru 20 gallon Copper Condenser Worm Built In 20 Oz Copper, Choose Your Size quantity SKU: 2.5 Gallon Copper Condenser worm Categories: Accessories, Moonshine Stills, Whiskey Copper Stills

Can you distill without a condenser?

Short path and molecular distillation – Molecular distillation is vacuum distillation below the pressure of 0.01 torr,0.01 torr is one order of magnitude above high vacuum, where fluids are in the free molecular flow regime, i.e. the mean free path of molecules is comparable to the size of the equipment.

1. The gaseous phase no longer exerts significant pressure on the substance to be evaporated, and consequently, rate of evaporation no longer depends on pressure.
2. That is, because the continuum assumptions of fluid dynamics no longer apply, mass transport is governed by molecular dynamics rather than fluid dynamics.

Thus, a short path between the hot surface and the cold surface is necessary, typically by suspending a hot plate covered with a film of feed next to a cold plate with a line of sight in between. Molecular distillation is used industrially for purification of oils. Short path vacuum distillation apparatus with vertical condenser (cold finger), to minimize the distillation path;

1. Still pot with stirrer bar/anti-bumping granules
2. Cold finger – bent to direct condensate
3. Cooling water out
4. cooling water in
5. Vacuum/gas inlet
6. Distillate flask/distillate.

Short path distillation is a distillation technique that involves the distillate travelling a short distance, often only a few centimeters, and is normally done at reduced pressure. : 150  A classic example would be a distillation involving the distillate travelling from one glass bulb to another, without the need for a condenser separating the two chambers.

1. This technique is often used for compounds which are unstable at high temperatures or to purify small amounts of compound.
2. The advantage is that the heating temperature can be considerably lower (at reduced pressure) than the boiling point of the liquid at standard pressure, and the distillate only has to travel a short distance before condensing.

A short path ensures that little compound is lost on the sides of the apparatus. The Kugelrohr apparatus is a kind of short path distillation method which often contains multiple chambers to collect distillate fractions.

How big should a condenser pad be?

Condenser Pads – If you have an air conditioner with a freestanding outdoor unit, Condenser Pad is a must-have. These flat rectangular slabs, usually made of concrete, provide a flat, stable surface for the condenser. Why do you need a Condenser Pad? 1 – If your condenser unit is sitting flat on the ground, it is exposed to corrosion from the soil underneath or the rainwater pooling on the ground.2 – It’s important to keep the unit still and level as the compressor and the condenser coils hold refrigerants in a liquid state, and leaving the unit unbalanced can cause problems for the system.

This is why condenser pads are essential because even if the ground under the unit is relatively flat, the weight of the unit can cause the soil underneath to shift.3 – If your outdoor unit is directly placed on the ground, it is exposed to different backyard pests that can wreck your system. A condenser pad reduces the likelihood of that.4 – If condenser units are not lifted up by condenser pads and make direct contact with the ground, they produce weird buzzing noises.

This isn’t just annoying but also damages the system, taking a toll on the unit’s lifespan. There are different types Of Condenser Pads available in the market. The two most common types are: Concrete These pads are ideal for larger air conditioners that have heavy units as they provide enough support.

1. Composite These pads are typically made from recycled plastic or rubber and are well-suited for smaller, lighter air conditioners.
2. If installed correctly, they last longer and provide good support.
3. However, choosing the right Condenser Pad is important.
4. Here are some of the factors you should consider: Size — The size of the condenser pad should exceed the unit footprint at all sides by several inches.

Location — Depending on the material of the pad, you need to strategically choose the spot where you will place your outdoor unit. This is important because your unit might be designed to withstand rain on scorching heat from direct sunlight, but the pad might not be.

Material — Concrete pads tend to sink into the ground over time, whereas plastic condenser pads are more sustainable, waterproof, and offer resistance to UV radiation and extreme heat. Shop At ProServices Supply We are a leading Maintenance, Repair, And Operations (MRO) Supplier, providing exceptional experiences to businesses.

Check out our extensive range of Diversitech lightweight and durable Condenser Pads, Our condenser pads are made with 98% recycled plastic and provide optimum strength and self-leveling ground support.

How big of a condenser do I need?

FOR A HOUSE – Homes and open floor plan spaces will need to have a higher BTU to cool. Usually around 12,500 BTU. You’ll need to have the square footage of your home to find the best air conditioner for your space. For a central air conditioning unit, you’ll need to know the square footage of your entire house.

Where in the country you live also affects your air conditioning needs. If you live in a northern state, you’ll need less cooling capacity than someone living in a southern state. Online A/C BTU calculators will ask for your zip code so they can automatically factor in location for you. Measurements are sometimes in tons, which correspond to a specific number of BTUs.

One ton is equal to 12,000 BTUs. The smallest standard size is 1.5 tons, which is 18,000 BTUs and the largest is 5.0 tons, which is 60,000 BTUs. To calculate for yourself how big of a central air conditioning unit you need, multiply your home’s total square footage by 20.

Can I use tap water for distilling?

#1 – Use Distilled and Not Tap Water – One of the most important tips I can give to moonshiners is to always use distilled water for making moonshine wash. It’s no secret that tap water contains a plethora of chemicals, some of which includes chlorine, chlorate, bromate and fluoride.

Why is a condenser needed for distillation?

Distillation Theory Example of a Typical Experiment Practical Lab Tips FAQ : When using the condenser, which hose connector is water-in and which is water-out? FAQ : Why does it matter whether water enters the condenser at the top or from the bottom? FAQ : How fast should the water run through the condenser? FAQ : How far down the stillhead should the thermometer bulb be placed when setting up the distillation apparatus? FAQ : How do you know when the distillation is complete? FAQ : Why are no drops coming over eventhough the distillate is boiling? FAQ : Can I use a bunsen burner for reflux and distillation? FAQ: When setting up the distillation apparatus, can I use an Erlenmeyer flask as the receiving vessel? FAQ : How much does the boiling point vary with atmospheric pressure? FAQ : If the atmospheric pressure today is 695 torr, does that mean the actual boiling point of this liquid is listed in the literature at a higher value than the temperature I saw, even after I corrected the temperature for my thermometer? Theory: Distillation Distillation is a purification technique.

It can be used for the separation of a low boiling solvent from a solid or a high boiling liquid. The liquid vaporizes in one vessel (the distillation pot) and then condenses into another vessel (the receiving flask). Heat Sources: Steam Bath – Use with flammable liquids that have a boiling point below 100 oC.

Heating Mantle with Powermite – Use with round bottom flasks during distillation or reflux. The Powermite allows heat regulation. Hot Plate – Use with Erlenmeyer flasks containing non-flammable or high boiling liquids. Can also be used with beakers containing water (for a water bath).

Boiling Point: Boiling point is the temperature at which the vapor pressure of a liquid is equal to that of the surrounding atmosphere. Boiling point varies with atmospheric pressure and is corrected to the temperature that would be observed at sea level (760 Torr). The higher the altitude, the lower the atmospheric pressure and the lower the boiling point.

Boiling point is measured during distillation when the temperature is constant (at the stillhead). Corrected boiling point can be measured using a nomograph or the following equation: Boiling Point Correction Factor = Corrected Boiling Point = Observed Boiling Point + Correction Factor Return to Top Typical Experiment Student A left approximately 20mL of a liquid mixture for his partner, Student B, to work up.

1. Student B was to remove and identify the solvent as well as retain the residue and distillate.
2. Student B decided to use simple distillation to remove the solvent.
3. He placed a lab jack in position and set up a heating mantle with a Powermite control.
4. He clamped the distillation flask in place and added boiling stones followed by his unknown liquid.

A stillhead was then attached and a thermometer was inserted into the thermometer adapter. The receiving flask was clamped in position and the condenser was connected between the receiving flask and distillation flask. Student B then attached the water tubing to the condenser and turn the water tap on full.

1. The tubing popped off and sprayed the student’s TA (who was not impressed).
2. The student reconnected the tubing and this time used the hose clamps and turned on the water tap slowly.
3. The student set the Powermite to 25 and after a few minutes, the liquid in the distillation flask began to boil.
4. The solvent began to boil and the temperature of the distillate was observed to be 38 oC at ~700 torr.

When no more solvent distilled over, the heating mantle was slowly lowered and the apparatus allowed to cool before disassembly. Return to Top Practical Lab Tips When connecting the water tubing to your condenser, remember that water enters from the bottom of the condenser and exits from the top.

• Add boiling stones to your distillation flask BEFORE you start heating.
• Distillation is complete when: a) no more liquid collects in the receiving vessel, b) when the temperature of the thermometer starts to drop or c) when the distillation flask is empty.
• Return to Top Q: When using the water condenser, which hose connector is water-in and which is water-out? Water goes in from the BOTTOM of the condenser.

Return to Top Q: Why does it matter whether the water enters the condenser at the top or from the bottom? If water enters from the bottom of the condenser, it will always be completely filled with cold water which ensures efficient cooling. During distillation, vapors are formed in the heated distillation flask.

1. The condenser cools these vapors condensing them back to liquid droplets that flow down the condenser into the receiver flask.
2. A completely filled condenser provides maximum cooling therefore allowing for maximum recovery of the purified liquid during distillation.
3. Return to Top Q: How fast should the water run through the condenser? A continuous flow of water through the condenser is necessary; however, the lower the flow rate, the lower the pressure and the lower the chance of having the tubing pop off (resulting in you spraying yourself or others).

Return to Top Q: How far down the stillhead should the thermometer bulb be placed when setting up the distillation apparatus? The mercury bulb of the thermometer should be positioned so that vapors condense readily on it. The tip of the bulb should be in line with the lowest part of the connecting tube of the stillhead.

• Return to Top Q: How do you know when distillation is complete? Distillation is complete when: a) you notice a drop in temperature, b) no more distillate is being formed or c) the distillation pot is empty.
• Return to Top Q: Why are no drops coming over eventhough the distillate is boiling? There could be two reasons for this: If this happens at the beginning of the distillation, there is insufficient energy input to cause adequate vaporization of the liquid.

In this case, you should increase the heat. If this happens at the end of the distillation, almost all of the low boiling liquid has been removed. Solvent vapors trapped in the boiling stone pores will continue to be an ebullition source, causing bubbling.

1. Return to Top Q: Can I use a bunsen burner for reflux and distillation? It is safer to use a heating mantle with a Powermite control for flammable vapors.
2. The Powermite also makes it easier to control the temperature.
3. Return to Top Q: When setting up the distillation apparatus, can I use an Erlenmeyer flask for the receiving flask? Yes, but there are less organic vapors if you use a small round bottom flask.

Return to Top Q: How much does boiling point vary with atmospheric pressure? For most organic liquids, there is a decrease of 0.5 oC with every 10 torr difference from 760 torr Return to Top Q: If the atmospheric pressure is 695 torr today, does that mean the actual boiling point of this liquid is listed in the literature at a higher value than the temperature I saw, even after I corrected the temperature for my thermometer? Yes.

When should you stop a distilling run?

#3: Tells you when your run is ending – Water boils at a higher temperature than alcohol, and as alcohol boils off from the pot, there is more water being boiled. So, the longer you run your still and the hotter it gets, the more water there will be boiling into steam at the later stages of your run.

What happens if condenser is too small?

What Will Happen if They Don’t Match? – Your HVAC system’s efficiency and lifespan will suffer. Residential and systems require specific parts to perform efficiently. Every component — including the coils, wiring and blowers — needs to be suitable for each other for the equipment to run smoothly.

• Mismatched parts will only result in headaches down the road, compromise your comfort and cause the system to fail shortly.
• The efficiency and lifespan of your equipment will suffer if the condenser and evaporator coils don’t match.
• Mismatched coils will cause your HVAC system to exert more effort to meet the desired temperature.

One of the coils will need to work harder to match the performance of the other. The added stress on the equipment increases the chances of costly repairs and early equipment failure. Your warranty will be voided. Most manufacturers of cooling and have specific requirements that must be met to keep warranties valid.

• For example, they typically require property owners to maintain their equipment regularly.
• When purchasing a new HVAC system, be sure to assess and read warranties carefully.
• Manufacturers usually demand that the evaporator and condenser coils be the same size.
• This means that if they don’t match, you’re risking the validity of your warranty.

Industry experts know that if these coils are different sizes, it won’t be long before the equipment malfunctions and fails. A reliable provider of HVAC services will make sure that you have the right type of system for your home and help you keep it in good condition.

1. At Acker Heating & Cooling, you can count on us to help you make the best decisions for the longevity and efficiency of your HVAC system.
2. Your energy bills will increase.
3. If you’ve noticed that your energy bills are increasing, mismatched air conditioning coils could be to blame.
4. If the evaporator and condenser coils aren’t the right size, the smaller coils won’t be able to keep up with the larger ones.

This will cause your entire HVAC system to run longer and consume more energy. Your indoor comfort will be compromised. It will be difficult to cool your home, and your indoor humidity levels will increase, if the condenser and evaporator coils don’t match.

• For instance, if the evaporator coil is larger than the condenser coil, your living space will get cool but stay humid.
• Meanwhile, if the evaporator coil is too large, your home won’t be as humid, but it will be hard to cool.
• Air conditioners have significantly evolved over the last few years, especially indoor units.

Newer models have improved features, such as better filtering and air handling and lower noise levels. They’re also generally more efficient than older units. You’ll end up spending more. Your condenser and evaporator coils were likely installed together.

1. This means they should be in a similar condition because they were subjected to the same amount of wear and tear.
2. Even if only one of these coils has an issue, it’s safe to assume that the other will eventually malfunction too.
3. You can save on labor costs by having the condenser and evaporator coils replaced at the same time.

If you only have one replaced, you’ll eventually end up spending more on installation costs. An experienced HVAC contractor knows what’s best for your cooling and, At Acker Heating & Cooling, we strive to provide you with the best level of service by using superior HVAC products.

What happens if you oversize a condenser?

Condenser Bigger than Evaporator – Is there a advantage or disadvantage to having a condenser that is bigger than the evaporator? R-22 both 13 SEER If anything, you want your evaporator a half ton to a full ton larger than your condenser, not the other way around.

The added surface area of the evaporator coil will increase the efficiency of your system. A larger condenser will add too much strain on the compressor and cause it’s failure. Only do what is approved by the mfr. There are a few cases I’ve seen where you can use a,5 ton smaller evap. Increases your sensible-latent split toward the latent side of things.

But only if it is rated as a match. I live in Houston where we have high humidity. Would a bigger condenser pull out more humidity? This unit is one of two in my house and it serves the upstairs. Originally Posted by ATwistedMax I live in Houston where we have high humidity. Would a bigger condenser pull out more humidity? This unit is one of two in my house and it serves the upstairs. You will have to have your HVAC service provider do a load calculation on your home to make that sizing determination. Originally Posted by phbsales If anything, you want your evaporator a half ton to a full ton larger than your condenser, not the other way around. The added surface area of the evaporator coil will increase the efficiency of your system. A larger condenser will add too much strain on the compressor and cause it’s failure.

You should do a little more study before you make statements like that because you are so wrong. A compressor is a pump it does not care what it is pumping to, as long as the system is setup correctly it will work as long as any other system. I happen to have a 4-ton coil on my 5-ton condenser and it works perfectly fine and has for almost ten years.

To the OP coils do not have SEER ratings they effect the SEER and the EER they also do not have BTU capacities just nominal capacity ratings. Originally Posted by classical You should do a little more study before you make statements like that because you are so wrong. And you should be more considerate to correct me via PM rather than on the open forum. Otherwise nobody learns anything. Originally Posted by classical I happen to have a 4-ton coil on my 5-ton condenser and it works perfectly fine and has for almost ten years. A large part of the SEER game for some time was oversizing condenser coils to lower head pressure. The larger coils also allow greater subcooling of the liquid refrigerant, with a related increase of net refrigerating effect in the evap.

1. Also, a condenser, in rated heat rejection capacity, would never be sized smaller than the evap’s rated heat absorption capacity, because the condenser must not only reject heat picked up from indoors, it must also reject heat of compression plus motor winding heat from the compressor.
2. Psychrometrics: the very foundation of HVAC.

A comfort troubleshooter’s best friend. Post Likes – 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes Ok, so there’s nothing wrong with me going with a 3.5 ton evap and a 4 ton condenser from what I’m hearing here. One more thing, looks to me that new r22 systems only come with 5 year warranties now. Originally Posted by ATwistedMax Ok, so there’s nothing wrong with me going with a 3.5 ton evap and a 4 ton condenser from what I’m hearing here. Not necessarily a good or a bad thing it depends on many factors including quantity and velocity of air across the coil, metering device and the needs of the house.

• Nothing about this business is cut and dried there are always multiple options that can be explored and considered.
• To make an appropriate and rational decision requires a thorough evaluation of your home, your expectations and your budget.
• When this has been done then you can discuss a practical solution to your needs.

Thank you for the advice, I will do a load calc and traverse the air handler and then put it all together. Are you a homeowner or a tech. Do you have an idea what you are looking for and what to so with that information once you collect it. Understand we are not going to nor can we tell you what to do with the information you collect.

• If you are a tech get you post count up and apply fro pro status if you are a HO call a pro with the knowledge to address your situation.
• Depending on your location there are several contractors around Houston that have the skill and knowledge to help you.
• Hey Classic, I’m what you would call a hybrid tech.

I work in the energy management industry soo I understand heat load and how it affects system design and response. I am in noo way a refrigerant tech, and I know my limitations. I like to put all of the facts, data and numbers together and analyze and construct a logical solution.

• I have been in the HVAC industry for over fifteen years and know about HVAC design.
• I just don’t have the qualifications to work or mess.
• Around with freon.
• Just about everything else I can get a handle on.
• I mostly work on Air Handling Units from 50 to 250 tons and all of the systems that support it, Chillers, Boilers, Cooling Towers, VFDs, Valves, etc etc.

That being said. I don’t deal with DX units on a regular basis. Thank you to everyone for all of their input and advise. I will put it to good use. Originally Posted by ATwistedMax One more thing, looks to me that new r22 systems only come with 5 year warranties now. True? For the most part yes. Manufacturers don’t want them competing with the R410A systems. And R22 compressors – and other repair parts – days are limited, they really dont want to make them any longer. Originally Posted by ATwistedMax Ok, so there’s nothing wrong with me going with a 3.5 ton evap and a 4 ton condenser from what I’m hearing here. I have seen this done in the last few years.in cases where the evap coil was an older cap tube coil, and the condensing unit was replaced with a new 13 SEER model. I have heard that “rule of thumb” before about you can go,5 ton bigger on the inside but, You will never get you seer rating with a mis-mached system and will prob. shorten the life on the compresser due to the higher head press. it would run @

How far away can a condenser be?

Air Conditioner Clearance – The best way to maintain this breathing room for your condenser is to allow 2–3 feet of clearance on all sides. Installing your AC unit too close to the house will prevent proper airflow and cause functionality issues. The cooling system will have to work harder, resulting in higher energy bills.

How loud should a condenser be?

9. Invest in a Modern Unit – All air conditioners will produce some sound; however, the older the unit, the louder it will be. Newer air conditioners are engineered to be as quiet as possible. When looking for a new unit, ductless air conditioners are worth considering.

Ductless air conditioners are significantly less loud compared to other types of air conditioners. They also have higher EER and SEER ratings, so you will save a hefty amount on energy bills as well. If you implement even half of these tips, there is no doubt that your air conditioner will be much quieter than before.

Once your air conditioner sound is at a minimum, you will surely be able to enjoy a restful night’s sleep!

How level does a condenser need to be?

It’s important to keep your outdoor AC condenser unit level for optimal performance and longevity. – Whether installed with the original construction, or by a local HVAC contractor, when your home’s outside AC condenser was originally installed, it should have been leveled by the installer.

Can the condenser be smaller than the coil?

Mismatched problem #4: Warranty violations – Most manufacturers specify that if you replace either the evaporator coil or condenser coil, it must be the same size (and ). Otherwise, they’ll void any remaining time on the warranty. This is because manufacturers specifically design both coils to work synergistically.

What size is my carrier condenser?

You can determine the size in tons of your Carrier HVAC system by examining the model number on the data sticker at the side of the a/c condenser (outdoor unit). Look for the 7th and 8th digits, or maybe 8th and 9th digits, of the model number. It will be a number divisible by 6 or 12, and represents the nominal BTU of the system in thousands. Here’s a rundown of the range you will encounter: 18 = 1.5 tons, 24 = 2 tons, 30 – 2.5 tons, 36 = 3 tons, 42 = 3.5 tons, 48 = 4 tons, and 60 = 5 tons. And the one below is a 2 ton unit., If the condenser is older and has had years of direct sun exposure, the numbers may be faded away, like in the photo below. But the printing is slightly raised and, if you hold a flashlight close to the surface of the data plate and parallel to, often it is possible tease out the numbers. If you are unsure whether you have found the right two numbers, you can double-check it by looking for the “RLA” rating on the data plate. RLA is an acronym for R ated L oad A mperage, and is what the maximum amperage should be when the condenser up and running. To determine the age of a Carrier system, see our blog post How can I tell the age of a Carrier air conditioner from the serial number? • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • To learn more about heating and air conditioning systems, see these other blog posts: • How can I find out the SEER of my air conditioner? • My air conditioner won’t turn on. What’s wrong? • How can I find out the size of my air conditioner? • How can I find out the age of my air conditioner or furnace? • How can I tell whether the condenser (outdoor unit) is an air conditioner or heat pump? • Where is the air filter for my central air conditioner and furnace? I can’t find it? • Does an old air conditioner use more electricity as it ages? • How did homes stay cool in Florida before air conditioning? • What is wrong with an air conditioner when the air flow out of the vents is low? • Why has the thermostat screen gone blank? • Why does it take so long to cool a house when an air conditioner has been off for a while? • Why is my air conditioner not cooling enough? • What are the most common problems with wall/window air conditioners? • Will closing doors reduce my heating and cooling costs? Visit our HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING page for other related blog posts on this subject, or go to the INDEX for a complete listing of all our articles.

What size is a Liebig condenser?

Liebig Condenser made of high quality, heavy duty Borosilicate glass.200mm condenser.14/23 size socket and cone. Condenser measures 13″ in total length, and has a diameter of 1.25″. Side arms each measure 1″ long. Perfect for any home, school, or professional science laboratory.

Autoclavable, with superior chemical durability. Low temperature gradient- can withstand high temperatures & thermal shocks. Eisco Labs Borosilicate glass has the following heat tolerances: Strain Point -515°C | Annealing Point 565°C | Softening Point 820°C Eisco Labs proudly manufactures its own products using state-of-the-art equipment, and following the highest standards of quality control.

Each product is carefully designed by a team of laboratory professionals and experienced engineers with quality and durability in mind. They are manufactured with only the highest grade, raw materials and according to international quality standards to ensure that they can withstand use in even the toughest laboratory environments.

What type of condenser is in a distillation column?

Distillation – Distillation is by far the most common separation process in practice, separating based on vapor-liquid equilibrium. The process is very effective in separating liquid components, as long as they have different boiling points and do not have an azeotrope.

Distillation often requires high temperatures, so operating costs can be relatively high compared with other processes. However, distillation does not require any additional separation-aiding streams such as solvent, and as such does not require an additional utility to complete the separation as absorption and extraction do.

Distillation columns are accompanied by a reboiler at the bottom and a condenser at the top (see Figure 1). The condenser can be a total condenser, resulting in one liquid distillate stream, or a partial condenser, resulting in a liquid distillate stream and a gaseous overhead stream.

These components are the major energy consuming components of a distillation column. The liquid exiting the condenser is split into two streams: reflux and distillate. The proportion of liquid returning to the column relative to the liquid leaving as distillate is a key design parameter of the column, known as reflux ratio.

Each stage of a distillation column exists under its own conditions and equilibrium. The design of the tray itself can also critically impact the performance of the column. This capability exists in HYSYS, though the focus of this page’s tutorials is on more general operation of the column.