What Is Definition Backset In Moonshine?

What is moonshine backset?

In American whiskey, an acidic liquid strained from the mash after the primary distillation. It’s typically added back to the mash tub or fermenter to help catalyze fermentation and ward off bacterial contamination. Also known as sour mash.M.

What does backset mean in distilling?

Bourbon and Whiskey Definitions – Angel’s Share: The portion of Bourbon in an aging barrel that’s lost to evaporation. Backset: The thin, watery part of a previously distilled batch of whiskey mash that is added ‒ or “set back” ‒ into the next batch. Also “sour mash, setback, stillage or spent beer.” Barrel Proof (Cask Strength): Whiskey/bourbon that is bottled after barrel-aging without being diluted to a lower proof by the addition of water.

Beer Still: A giant apparatus in which the main component is a very tall metal column used to separate the alcohol from the water in the distiller’s beer by vaporizing the alcohol content. Also called a “continuous still.” The spirit produced is called “low wines.” Bottled-in-Bond: Bottled-in-Bond (BIB) Act of 1897 are rules that require spirits such as whiskey to be aged and bottled according to a specific legal rules and regulations.

The primary purpose of the BIB Act of 1897 is to guarantee that the product the consumer was buying was truly whiskey, according to a standardized definition. The BIB act of 1897 was in fact the first form of consumer protection in the United States of America.

O be labeled as bottled-in-bond or bonded, the liquor must be the product of one distillation season (January–June or July–December) by one distiller at one distillery.
It must have been aged in a federally bonded warehouse under U.S.
Government supervision for at least four years and bottled at 100 (U.S.) proof(50% alcohol by volume).

The bottled product’s label must identify the distillery where it was distilled and, if different, where it was bottled.Only spirits produced in the United States may be designated as bonded. Bourbon: A product of the United States, made from at least 51% corn mash, distilled at no higher than 160 proof (80% ABV), stored at no more than 125 proof (62.5% ABV) in new oak containers, bottled at no less than 80 proof (40% ABV) and have nothing added except pure water.

Bung: The stopper used to seal a barrel. Charring: The process of setting fire to the interior of barrels for less than one minute and creates a layer of charred wood. Distillers can choose from four levels of char. Column Still: A column still, also called a continuous still, patent still or Coffey still, is a variety of still consisting of two columns.

Column stills behave like a series of single pot stills, formed in a long vertical tube. The tube is filled with either porous packing or bubble plates. The rising vapor, which is low in alcohol, starts to condense in the cooler, higher level of the column.

The temperature of each successively higher stage is slightly lower than the previous stage, so the vapor in equilibrium with the liquid at each stage is progressively more enriched with alcohol.
Whereas a single pot still charged with wine might yield a vapor enriched to 40–50% alcohol, a column still can achieve a vapor alcohol content of 96%; an azeotropic mixture of alcohol and water.

Further enrichment is only possible by absorbing the remaining water using other means, such as hydrophilic chemicals or azeotropic distillation. Corn Whiskey: A whiskey made from a mash containing a minimum of 80 percent corn and, if it is aged at all, must be aged in used or uncharred oak barrels.

Distiller’s Beer: The thick, fermented mash of cooked grains, water and yeast that is transferred from the fermenter to the beer still for the first distillation. Distillery: A place where liquor is manufactured. Doubler: A large copper still used to accomplish the second distillation of American whiskey.

It effectively removes impurities and concentrates the alcohol even further. “Low wines” go in; “high wines” come out. Fermentation: The process by which yeast transforms sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Fermenter: A large tub made of metal (or cypress) in which the mash of cooked grains and water meet the yeast.

After they mingle, the yeast begins to act on sugars in the grain, and fermentation occurs over a few days.
This produces alcohol within the mash and turns it into distiller’s beer.
Heads: The first section of the high wines to exit the doubler or thumper; this spirit is high in impurities and sent back to the still for redistillation.

High Wines: The final spirit produced by the secondary distillation, ready for aging. Low Wines: The name of the spirit after it has passed through the beer or continuous still for its first distillation. Malted Barley: Barley that has been partially germinated and then heated or roasted to stop the germination.

Malted barley (or any malted grain) contains enzymes that convert starches into the fermentable sugars on which yeast feeds.
These enzymes are not present in unmalted grains.
Mash: The mixture of cooked grains and water before the yeast is added to start fermentation.
Mashbill: The grain recipe used to make whiskey.

Mash Tub: A tub where grains are combined with water and cooked to soften them and break down the starch into simple sugars before the resulting “mash” is transferred to the fermenter. Also called a “cooker.” Non-Distiller Producer: A producer that does not distill, but instead purchases whisky from a distillery to sell under its own brand name.

Often abbreviated as NDP. Nose: The aroma of a whiskey. In basic terms, it’s the smell. Pot Still: A type of distillation apparatus or still used to distill alcoholic spirits such as whiskey or cognac. Pot stills operate on a batch distillation basis (as opposed to a Coffey or column stills which operate on a continuous basis).

Traditionally constructed from copper, pot stills are made in a range of shapes and sizes depending on the quantity and style of spirit desired. By law, cognac, Irish and Scotch malt whiskies, and single pot still whiskey must be distilled using a pot still.

Prohibition: in the United States was a nationwide constitutional ban on the production, importation, transportation, and sale of alcoholic beverages from 1920 to 1933.
Proof: Measurement of beverage alcohol on a scale, in America, of 200.
A 100-proof whiskey contains 50% alcohol by volume; 86-proof whiskey contains 43% alcohol.

Rickhouse/Rackhouse: The building in which whiskey is aged, sometimes referred to as the “warehouse.” Ricks: The wooden structures on which barrels of whiskey rest during aging. Rye Whiskey (straight): Defined in United States law as whiskey created by distilling a fermented (malted or unmalted) grain mash to create a alcohol content by volume (ABV) not exceeding 80% and then aging the spirit for at least two years at an ABV concentration not exceeding 62.5% at the start of the aging process.

Single Barrel Whiskey: Whiskey drawn from one barrel that has not been combined with any other whiskeys. Small Batch Whiskey: A product of combining several barrels of whiskey that have matured into a specific style. Sour Mash: Sour mash is a process used in the distilling industry that uses material from an older batch of mash to start the fermentation of a new batch, analogous to the making of sourdough bread with a starter.

Tails: The last section of high wines to exit the doubler or thumper; this spirit is high in impurities and sent back to the still for redistillation. Thief: A tubular instrument for removing a sample from a barrel. Wheated Bourbon: Bourbon made from a mashbill that contains wheat instead of rye grain.

What do you do with backset?

Home Distiller Production methods from starch to sugars. Moderator: Novice Posts: Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2013 4:56 am by » Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:06 am Hi, I tried to find answers to this question but to no avail, HD nor DuckDuckGo. I guess nobody has asked the question this way, and it’s probably obvious (dump it).

But that’s what I’m wondering, Are there are any other uses for backset after distillation? Creative answers welcome. How many uses can we come up with? Cheers. (Tag to help other newbies when they search: what to do with wash after distilling) Novice Posts: Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:19 am by » Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:50 am I dump mine in and around the garden (once cooled).

None of my plants seem to mind and there’s probably some good stuff still in there. retired Posts: Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 8:38 am Location: OzLand by » Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:30 am Hot waste backset cleans still parts. Soak for a while, then rinse well. When the backset is cool, onto the garden.

Different place each time. Be safe. Be discreet. And have fun. retired Posts: Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2012 1:19 pm Location: Down the road a piece. by » Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:27 am If you make a habit out of dumping backset and spent grains in the garden you may have to add some lime from time to time to sweetin the earth back up.

Backset is pretty low pH. Novice Posts: Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2013 4:56 am by » Fri Aug 02, 2013 5:30 am Great, thanks for the feedback. I chose not to dump it on my wife’s organic biodynamic planted by mooncharts and blessed by fairies garden. Instead we shall see if it “helps” a few palms instead around the pool. Posts: Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:59 pm Location: Vegas by » Thu Mar 26, 2015 11:23 pm Kill weeds with it while still really hot. While about 25% goes back to ferment. Life is a journey you take alone. Make sure you do what you what makes you happy Site Donor Posts: Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2013 8:54 am Location: Carolina,s

by » Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:34 am Poured hot on the patio bricks, it keeps the little weeds from growing up between the cracks.OLD MAN IN THE SHED

Novice Posts: Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:59 am Location: Mountains of WNC by » Fri Mar 27, 2015 3:15 am Feed the turkeys and deer and bear in the woods right below my house! Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:03 am Location: Texan living in Missouri by » Fri Mar 27, 2015 3:44 am Freeze by the milk jug full for later use to sour mash with.too obvious? Remember not to blow yourself up,you only get to forget once! Deo Vendice Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx! Novice Posts: Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:59 am Location: Mountains of WNC by » Fri Mar 27, 2015 5:01 am aceswired wrote: How do you get the turkeys to drink it? I just mix it with the mash that’s left and spread it over a small area and after a few days it’s all gone. Posts: Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:59 pm Location: Vegas by » Fri Mar 27, 2015 5:54 am I was gonna guess feeding tube. Imagine an internally whiskey marinated turkey yum. Life is a journey you take alone. Make sure you do what you what makes you happy Rumrunner Posts: Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2020 3:07 pm Location: Canada by » Sat Nov 06, 2021 6:45 am Any reason one can’t dump backset into the septic system? It is either good for the septic or bad.

Any guesses? Asking for a friend – Rrmuf Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2015 11:59 am Location: Pacific Northwest by » Sat Nov 06, 2021 6:57 am I don’t have a septic system any more but I would not want to dump a lot of backset into the system I had. Backset is acidic and enough of it would really mess with the balance of things underground.

If that happens, things can start backing up. One big word of caution is do not dump it hot. One guy on HD wrote about cracking his toilet with the sudden dumping of hot backset. Ouch! Otis Rumrunner Posts: Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2020 3:07 pm Location: Canada by » Sat Nov 06, 2021 7:05 am wrote: Sat Nov 06, 2021 6:57 am I don’t have a septic system any more but I would not want to dump a lot of backset into the system I had.

Backset is acidic and enough of it would really mess with the balance of things underground. If that happens, things can start backing up. One big word of caution is do not dump it hot. One guy on HD wrote about cracking his toilet with the sudden dumping of hot backset. Ouch! Otis Thanks, on both counts.

I, I mean my friend, would not have dumped through a ceramic but I was wondering about the septic culture itself. I imagined some down the drain from time to time would cut grease, so I thought it might be not a bad idea, if not for compromising the septic culture. Posts: Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:10 pm Location: PNW by » Sat Nov 06, 2021 8:18 am I regularly pour hotbackset down the kitchen sink drain after preheating the drain with hot tap water. On city sewer that is. On septic, I’d dump it in the weeds hot. Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.

Trainee Posts: Joined: Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:43 pm Location: Southwest by » Sat Nov 06, 2021 8:35 am wrote: Sat Nov 06, 2021 6:45 am Any reason one can’t dump backset into the septic system? It is either good for the septic or bad. Any guesses? Asking for a friend Salesmen and stores sell septic system bacteria to gullible customers.

The idea being pitched – is that this concentrated conglomeration of bacteria will help break down solids like poop, hair, chewing gum, cigarette butts, toilet paper and a thousand other things that go down the drain. Ideally, bacteria break down the solids and the water transports these smaller particles down the “laterals” and into the soil.

Topsoil is important.
Soil with high clay or shale content, complicates septic system efficiency.
The addition of extra bacteria can not but be considered helpful to this digestion, but possibly the idea is oversold.
A septic system tank is but a covered cesspool or cesspit and billions of new bacteria are flushed down and into the system every day.

It’s impossible to keep new bacteria out. Every septic system is doomed to fail eventually. The leach field will eventually become saturated and clogged with micro-particles that just won’t evaporate or disappear. Bacteria and their enzymes aren’t very good at breaking down toilet paper either.

If there are any women in the household, you can bet that the septic system contains a large volume of paper. Septic tank trucks are a common sight, because eventually (say after 20- 30 years) septic tanks get clogged with solids – and then need to be sucked out. A little acidic backset poured down the drain is highly unlikely to have any effect on a septic tank with thousands of gallons capacity (the minimum tank is 1,000 gallons).

Backset is also mostly liquid and has very few solids. Laundry bleach and detergent is probably a far bigger threat to bacterial growth that is backset. But why on earth pour backset into a septic system? To hide one’s hobby from prying eyes? Backset is rich in vitamins, minerals and undigested carbohydrates.

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It makes excelent plant food. Pour it on the grass, on your roses or on some trees. Hell, pour it on the driveway, rather than into the septic system. Omnia mea mecum porto Rumrunner Posts: Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2020 3:07 pm Location: Canada by » Sat Nov 06, 2021 8:52 am Thanks. I live in the woods and it is my ha bit and simple enough to dump it outside but it so happens today i have a sore back and was wondering if there is any reason why i could not just dump it down my shop drain.

It just avoids the 15m boiler haul to the back door. So, from answers so far: 1. Take care with hot backset and exploding toilets 2. Hot backset has weedkilling and other uses 3. backset is probably not initially great for the septic, but not a big deal.4. Posts: Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:58 am Location: The Milky Way by » Sat Nov 06, 2021 10:07 am You could always adjust the pH closer to “7” then dump it into septic if you were really concerned about acidity causing issues with the bacteria. Better yet, take a sample from your septic tank and measure pH and adjust backset to the same.

I prefer my mash shaken, not stirred ———— Rumrunner Posts: Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2020 3:07 pm Location: Canada by » Sat Nov 06, 2021 11:05 am wrote: Sat Nov 06, 2021 10:07 am You could always adjust the pH closer to “7” then dump it into septic if you were really concerned about acidity causing issues with the bacteria.

Better yet, take a sample from your septic tank and measure pH and adjust backset to the same. I’ll get right on that!, I think I will just assume 7. – Rrmuf : Home Distiller

What is the meaning of backset?

Noun. backset (plural backsets) A check; a relapse; a discouragement; a setback. Whatever is thrown back in its course, such as water.

Why is backset important?

Backset Information – When looking for any deadbolt, knob, or lever product, it is important to measure the backset of the door on which it is going to be installed. This will ensure the lock you are purchasing will fit properly. The backset is measured from the center of the hole for the lock to the edge of the door.

Most residential doors are a 2 3/8″ backset, and industrial doors are usually 2 3/4″. If your door has a different or non-standard backset, please contact us to see if we can accommodate your door before ordering. Some products feature an adjustable backset that can be set to fit either standard. Other products use completely different parts.

In any case, we ask you to measure the backset of your door when ordering so that we can provide the proper part and set it prior to shipment. To help you determine what backset you have, please see our backset/thickness guide below. You can print it out and use it to determine what measurement your door is, or to assist with drilling a new door.

What does backset size mean?

Mortice door latches and locks come in different sizes and working out the right one for your door can be tricky. The most common sizes in the UK for internal doors are 63mm and 76mm. This is the overall length measurement of the latch, often referred to as the case. The backset measurement is also an important thing to consider when choosing latches and door knobs/handles. The backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the spindle mechanism on the latch. Usually a 63mm case measurement will have a 44mm backset and a 76mm case measurement will have a 65mm backset.

The backset you choose is where your door knobs will sit on the door (where the spindle goes through). You may want your door knobs to sit centrally to the door stile, or if you have chosen door handles you may want to offset them slightly to take the lever into consideration. The backset measurement is also important so you can ensure that when you turn a door knob you do not hit your knuckles on the architrave.

When deciding on replacement door knobs, check the backset measurement on your existing latch and the diameter of the door knob to ensure there is enough room for your hand to turn the door knob. All our handles are supplied without latches or locks as there are so many variations and we find our customers often already have latches/locks on their door they’d like to reuse. If you have mortice latches or locks in your doors and they seem in good working order then it is worth checking if they are heavily sprung.

The majority of our door knobs and handles require a heavily sprung mortice latch or lock to work correctly and return the handle back to its original position once turned. To check this, remove your current handle and operate the knob or the lever and if it returns on its own this means your current handle is sprung and your latch/lock is unlikely to be.

You would need to choose a sprung handle/door knob in this case or change the internal mortise latch or lock to a heavily sprung mortice lock or latch to work with un-sprung handles and door knobs you may wish to buy. Be aware that many mortice latches are titled heavy duty latch or lock but this does not refer to it being sprung.

What does 57mm backset mean?

How to Measure Your Door For Locks | Door Handles Accurately measuring your door for a lock depends completely on what kind of lock you’ll be using. The two most prominent types of lock are and sashlocks, so we’ll concentrate on these two for now. The process for measuring a door for any other type of lock will probably be a variation on the process used for these main two.

A simple deadlock (deadbolt) is an effective and easy way to boost the security of your house.
Most burglars make entry through door and windows, and the visible presence of a deadbolt can often be enough to make an opportunistic thief reconsider targeting you.
Installing can also save you cash on your home insurance; get in touch with your insurer to see if you can benefit.

If you’ve already purchased your deadlock and you’re measuring your door to fit it, then the process is a little easier, and we’ll discuss this first. If you haven’t yet bought your deadlock and you’re measuring your door to find which size is best for you, it’s a bit more complicated, and we’ll come back to it in a moment.

First, if you’ve already bought your, then open the packaging in which it came.
You’ll find a template – it’s usually made of paper or card – which you can use to mark out where you want your bolt to go, and make the correct measurements accordingly.
With the template close by, and a tape measure and pencil in hand, first judge whether you want your deadbolt above or below your current door hardware.

It’s most common to position the deadlock lower on the door, but there’s no real reason for this and the bolt can safely be positioned anywhere you want. There is one convention worth bearing in mind though, and it’s this: place your deadlock at least twelve inches away from the existing door hardware, whether you choose to install the bolt above or below it. This is because it’s best to spread the strength provided by locking mechanisms down the length of the door, rather than concentrating it neatly in one area.

Once you’ve settled on a position for the deadbolt, tape the template in place, ensuring that it’s square and level with the door, and use your pencil to mark where the drill holes will go. Then repeat the process on the other side of the door. Simple. Your door is now measured and ready to fit the deadbolt.

However, if you haven’t yet bought your deadbolt, you probably won’t have a template to use. Therefore, to measure your door you need to improvise the measurements. First, measure the backset of your current door hardware. The backset is the horizontal distance from the edge of a door to the centre of a lockset; thus, the distance a lockset is ‘set back’ from the edge of a door is called its backset. Since a mortice sashlock is a little more complicated – but very similar to a deadlock – the measurements you need are not so different. The first measurement is the ‘stile’ of the door. The stile is the horizontal distance from the edge of the door to the edge of any paneling or glass your door might have.

If your door’s surface is completely flat, without any panels, glass or embedded decoration, then you don’t need to measure this. If your door does have panels, glass or embedded decoration, then you need to measure the distance between the edge of the door and the beginning of them. Obviously the stile measurement varies between door designs, but it’s usually around 90mm to 125mm.

You don’t need to worry whether your door is left- or right-handed. The majority of are reversible. The stile will decide which size of lock you can use. Determine whether you can fit a 67mm deep or an 80mm deep lock without interfering with any of the door features.

Once you have determined this, look at which backset will best suit your door, either the smaller 44/45mm or larger 57/60mm backset. Now consider how wide the backplate of your lever handle set is or the diameter of the rose your lever is on and make sure the position of the handle set on the door is acceptable.

Check particularly that the backplate or rose will not interfere with any panelling, door frames or, if the doors are double and rebated, that the handle plates don’t cover any of the rebate. If your door has been pre-drilled for a mortice lock, then you will need to measure the backset, which in this case would be the distance from the edge of the door to the centre of the pre-drilled hole.

If there are two holes drilled, one above the other, you’ll need to know their distance from one another.
Most other types of locks will require similar – if not identical – measurements.
If the lock you need to measure your door for is mounted to the surface, then follow the procedure outlined above.

We hope this information helps you choose the right lock for you; if you have any further questions please contact us via the details on our page or browse our resources for the information you need.? : How to Measure Your Door For Locks | Door Handles

How long can you leave mash before distilling?

It depends on what type of wash you have but as a general rule of thumb, it is best to distil within 2-3 days after fermentation is complete. The wash will keep for up to a month so long as the fermenter is airtight. The period can be extended if the wash is racked off into a clean airtight container.

How many times can you reuse moonshine mash?

Home Distiller Production methods from starch to sugars. Moderator: Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Wed May 23, 2012 10:13 pm Hi Everyone Beginner here, be nice. I’m making a batch of ethanol using 6kg white sugar, 21L water and one pack of yeast.

Total 25L) Apparently one can reuse the left over slop in the still up to 8 times, which begs my first question.1) If the yeast and sugar reacted correctly then there shouldn’t be any of either in the left over mash. Why reuse it? And if there is a good reason for someone distilling the cleanest ethanol possible to reuse it then here is my second question.2) Is this how one reuses mash? I distill the mash till it’s dead, then tip it back into my fermenting bucket.

I add another pack of yeast, another 6KG sugar, and top up to 25L with water and wait another week. I don’t argue, I debate. Angel’s Share Posts: Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:07 pm Location: up north by » Thu May 24, 2012 4:37 am “one can reuse the left over slop in the still up to 8 times” why,I guess you could if you was short on water,leave that for rum /whiskey brewers. but you can reuse the yeast from the fermenter (see UJSSM) Site Donor Posts: Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 4:00 pm Location: Paradise by » Thu May 24, 2012 4:46 am go over to the tried and true section and run of those recipes. You will be thankful. Sugar + water + yeast=etoh but the yeast need nutrients. The recipes over there are reproducible and come out great.

I like Wineos but its a slow ferment.
No sense reinvinting the wheel.
Retired Posts: Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:40 pm Location: The Ol’ North State by » Thu May 24, 2012 5:15 am X2, 6K is too much sugar for 25L to make good spirits.
The yeast will likely stress and produce off-flavors, and the ferment may even stall.

should be more like 5K max, but as rgarry said you need something else in there for the yeasts health, so swing over to the tried n true recipes and have a look. NChooch Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat. retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Thu May 24, 2012 7:25 am Spent mash = backset or in case of rum dunder.

That will give you something to search for.
But I wouldn’t use it for a neutral.
Reuse the yeast in the fermenter could be useful.
But in the case of a neutral backset would add flavors you are trying to get rid of.
Tried and true recipe section.
And it would be nice if you stepped over to the welcome center and introduced yourself.

Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Thu May 24, 2012 8:09 pm Prairy, you are right. How rude of me. I’ll go ahead and do that now. Thanks everyone else for the input. Kinda what I thought, pure spirit is better with a fresh wash every time.

And as for the sugar, 6kg is what the yeast recommends. I followed all instructions and it’s bubbling away on day 5. I don’t argue, I debate. Rumrunner Posts: Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:03 pm Location: Mississippi by » Thu May 24, 2012 8:30 pm ahhh turbo! check out “tried and true” for sure,u can get rid of that expensive turbo yeast and use plain ol bakers yeast.Gerber is a good one fer me! 3′ Essential Extractor PSII High Capacity (Brewhaus) on gas,recirculating 60 gal olive barrel for cooling Employ your time in improving yourself by other men’s writings, so that you shall gain easily what others have labored hard for ~ Socrates Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 12:55 am I just worked it out, I’d save just over £1 a wash if I used bakers yeast.

Hardly seems worth it, but I’m yet to yield my first batch yet. Early days. Also, elsewhere I’ve heard that bakers yeast can produce unwanted bi-products during fermentation. I don’t argue, I debate. Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:54 pm Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum by » Fri May 25, 2012 4:28 am If you want a clean neutral spirit, turbo is an expensive yet poor choice.

Check out the tried and true section.
Retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Fri May 25, 2012 4:53 am bruvvamoff wrote: I just worked it out, I’d save just over £1 a wash if I used bakers yeast.
Hardly seems worth it, but I’m yet to yield my first batch yet.

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Early days. Also, elsewhere I’ve heard that bakers yeast can produce unwanted bi-products during fermentation. Your choice. You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can. On the biggest home distilling forum on the net. Trying to give you the best advice they can.

Or you can go by the manufactures info.
Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can.
Now you found the best site on the net for home distilling information.
Take advantage of it.
Dig in and do the research.
That is if you want to make the best drink you can.
If you are out to make cheap rocket fuel? Then the path your on is fine.

Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 6:27 am Aah there’s always one abnoxious little know-it-all isn’t there. I always investigate everything thoroughly before making any decisions, and I certainly don’t make snap judgements based on advice purely because of the size of the forum.

As I said, early days.
I’ll let you know how it turns out.
If I am unhappy I shall certainly try birdwatchers.
I don’t argue, I debate.
Retired Posts: Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:42 am Location: Somewhere in the Ozarks by » Fri May 25, 2012 6:47 am Thanks for the kind words.
And glad to hear you like to do thorough research and not make snap judgments before you buy or do.

It’s nice to hear. So many come here that haven’t done enough research. Or want people to spoon feed them what they want to know. Nice to have new member that won’t. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Fri May 25, 2012 7:30 am Get used to my questions.

I am shall we say, inquisitive. I certainly need no spoon feeding, I just like to get things right first time. I gather as much info as possible then come to my own conclusions as a scientist would. I have asked nearly 700 questions on yahoo answers, that speaks for itself. Like I said, I’ll share my results.

Thanks again. I don’t argue, I debate. Novice Posts: Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:17 am Location: It’s sunny here by » Sat May 26, 2012 5:14 am bruvvamoff wrote: Aah there’s always one abnoxious little know-it-all isn’t there. That’s very trollish? “Patriotism is supporting your country all the time and your government when it deserves it.” -Mark Twain Site Donor Posts: Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:41 pm Location: Great Lake State by » Sat May 26, 2012 5:24 am Uuuuuhhhhh ooooooohhhhhh! Here we go again! It is what you make it forum scribe and editing bitch Posts: Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:14 pm Location: Or-eee-gun by » Sat May 26, 2012 11:13 am Guys I think we may have a bit of a linguistic disconnect here.

I am assuming from syntax, etc. that the OP is not a native English speaker and sometimes that makes wording come across a bit harsh. So grain of salt. But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer. PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

Someone democratically (well, I’m sure there was a bit of nepotism in there somewhere, but MOSTLY democratically) selected to help others when able and in your case now, willing. And unfortunately for you, he has a lot of admirers here, myself being one of them.

And you’re being just plain old rude. When you see these guys respond directly to questions, statements of fact, practices, etc. without pulling any punches it’s because there is a TON of experience to back it all up. They’re not criticizing you personally.they just want to make sure you are very clear that there is a better way.and to your benefit.

You have to have a bit of a thick skin here at times.you have to be willing to go through the standard “hazing” that occurs when amateurs mix with experts-it is a right of passage and what makes us better men in the long run, provided the spirit is well intentioned.which I assure you it is.

So welcome and I recommend you fall squarely on your sword and try to make amends a bit.otherwise you’re on a bit of a lonely path here.
I know these guys will probably give you one pass at least.maybe not.
Well, between Scotch and nothin’, I suppose I’d take Scotch.
It’s the nearest thing to good moonshine I can find.” William Faulkner (1897-1962) Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 1:16 pm rad14701 wrote: bruvvamoff wrote: Get used to my questions.

Like I said, I’ll share my results.
Thanks again.
Sounds more like a pain in the ass that wants answers without researching.
Ever consider that the first answer someone gives you may not be the correct one.??? Go forth and research and you’ll learn more than you expected to.
In fact you’ll learn answers to questions you don’t even know you have yet.700 Yahoo Answers questions.??? I rest my case.

Researching and questioning go hand in hand. I have no local library, and every google search brings me back to this darn place. What choice do I have? I don’t argue, I debate. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 1:23 pm Frosteecat wrote: Guys I think we may have a bit of a linguistic disconnect here.

I am assuming from syntax, etc.
That the OP is not a native English speaker and sometimes that makes wording come across a bit harsh.
So grain of salt.
But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer.
PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

And you’re being just plain old rude.
When you see these guys respond directly to questions, statements of fact, practices, etc.
Without pulling any punches it’s because there is a TON of experience to back it all up.
They’re not criticizing you personally.they just want to make sure you are very clear that there is a better way.and to your benefit.

So welcome and I recommend you fall squarely on your sword and try to make amends a bit.otherwise you’re on a bit of a lonely path here.
I know these guys will probably give you one pass at least.maybe not.
I think maybe I’m in the wrong place to be asking these questions.
If it’s rude to question and analyse responses then I will certainly drive you all crazy because I take noones word for anything, neither accept an answer based on status.

I like to debate, it solidifies theories and proves the efficiency of methods. If this behavious isn’t the norm in here then I’ll take my sceptical self elsewhere. I don’t argue, I debate. forum scribe and editing bitch Posts: Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:14 pm Location: Or-eee-gun by » Sat May 26, 2012 3:17 pm It’s not a question of asking or debating.

That goes on all the time. It’s a question of calling a mentor obnoxious when he was trying to help initially and then got fed up and used a little sarcasm. No one denies your right to ask, disagree, etc. But the unpaid volunteers here are trying to elevate and maintain craft distilling at a high level.

If they quietly let people use inferior products when there are better solutions available, or didn’t tell you that plastic, rubber, glass, etc. can be hazards, they aren’t really doing their job. I’m going to assume your earlier retort to PP was not intended to be as asinine as it sounded and give you the benefit of the doubt.but just chill out and be able to be taught.and the first quality of a good student is humility.followed closely by respect.

And I’m not talking about status based or heirarchical abeyance.I’m talking about any truth seeker’s respect for the more learned. “When the student is ready the Master appears”. “Well, between Scotch and nothin’, I suppose I’d take Scotch. It’s the nearest thing to good moonshine I can find.” William Faulkner (1897-1962) Novice Posts: Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:16 pm by » Sat May 26, 2012 3:57 pm +1 frost I’m prety new to this whole thing too, and when I went off the path I got some razzing and even a bit of what fealt like being called stupid.

You know why? Because I was being stupid, Mr Piss and Rad are always the first to jump in and give good, solid advise. If you listen you’ll learn somthing. For a nutral have a look at Bird Watchers and Winoes plain ‘ol sugar wash also Rad’s All Bran pecipe is out standing when refluxed but in my opinion better from the pot still. Posts: Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:41 pm Location: Great Lake State by » Mon May 28, 2012 7:25 pm As I was taught, if you know the answers dont ask the questions, if you dont know the answers ask the questions and shut your mouth,open your ears and listen to what you are told.

You may not agree 100% of the time or have a different way of thinking about it but, in the beginning you had no clue, because you asked the question to begin with. Do you follow? All n all don’t ask if you dont want to know ones answer. It is what you make it Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Tue May 29, 2012 10:52 pm whiskeytripping wrote: This gentleman seems to be getting off to a good start making friends quickly Yeah I have that effect on people I don’t argue, I debate.

Novice Posts: Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:23 pm by » Sun Jul 15, 2012 3:01 am bruvvamoff, i can relate to how your coming at this hobby, but not with the way your caoming across to this forum and the pros here. I dont know all the big players here etc but i have been on here a few years, asked stupid questions to begin with, researched reserched researched, asked more stupid questions and sometimes not believed the answers.

Partly because the long term members standard response seems to just be ‘go to tried and true section, do not pass go, do not collect $200 dollars” Having learnt more i can see why they say that, but for someone asking ‘why do ya’all hate this turbo stuff seems like a miracle!’ then just saying ‘go here and read’ doesnt seem like much of an answer.

If you made the turbo and you liked the results, well, no need for this forum. If you want to try more and your open to learning new things, for a laugh then id say try essencia super 6. Its another yeast pack with nutrients in it, but slower fermenting, and if you can muster up the strength to ignore the 6kg suggestion on the packet and just do 5, well the results for me were waaay better than the turbos id done before.

Like you id done my homework, and like you hadnt found enough to put me off trying it out for myself first hand.
I didnt feel the need to tell the good people on here that they were wrong and could stick it, but i did feel the need to try it for myself.
SO a couple runs of turbo classic, then asking the brew shop about making a cleaner nicer spirit led me to essencia super 6.

Much better than turbo classic, even with 5kg in the turbo classic was still bad by comparison. essencia had a good couple bottles worth in the middle with next to no smell or taste to it. Im continuing my experimentation and have a birdwatchers wash on at the moment along with a basic rum, im hoping for good results and im glad i have a base to compare them to, and i can appreciate what everyone on here is talking about when they advise against using turbos.

For convenience id use the essencia super 6 again, and im trying to steer my friends that dont do any research and only use turbos towards trying the essencia even just once, so they can get better results for the same price and effort.
For the record doing two washes of birdwatchers comes in at the same price as a single run of turbo, doing the same size washes.

Turbo yeasts must be cheap as chips where you are for the difference to be so small. Just throwing my own $0.02 in there with my first hand experience, your mileage may vary, i see its been a month and a half on this topic so you might have done another six lots of turbo since then, or maybe youv already tried a birdwatcher for yourself, i dont know.

Sharing is caring so there it is Novice Posts: Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:34 am Location: Standing on or above this rung. by » Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:27 pm Prairiepiss wrote: Your choice. You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can. On the biggest home distilling forum on the net.

Trying to give you the best advice they can. Or you can go by the manufactures info. Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can. : wtf: LOL, that’s going in my sig. Bootlegger Posts: Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 9:35 pm by » Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:23 am AnOniiMouse wrote: Prairiepiss wrote: Your choice.

You got a bunch of guys that home distill to make the best product they can. On the biggest home distilling forum on the net. Trying to give you the best advice they can. Or you can go by the manufactures info. Who is just out to sell you as much crap as they can. : wtf: LOL, that’s going in my sig. I’ve tried birdwatcher three times now and created rank tasting crap every time, and only 2 litres of it.

I’m not disputing the recipe, it’s certainly something I’m doing wrong. I threw a party recently and everyone was drinking my latest turbo run, no complaints. Either each and every one of my friends have no taste buds or. turbo shine isn’t as bad as people like to make out. Posts: Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:39 pm by » Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:05 am “But that being said, you did take a clear shot at one of the finest resources this site has to offer. PP is also, if you had noticed the coloring of his handle, what is called a Mentor.

Someone democratically (well, I’m sure there was a bit of nepotism in there somewhere, but MOSTLY democratically) selected to help others when able and in your case now, willing.” ++1 I have made over a hundred runs through my pot still, but would still defer to PP’s knowledge of hobbyist distilling.

The OP would do well to listen to him and other experienced and knowledgeable members of this Forum. BG Site Donor Posts: Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:37 pm Location: colorado high rockies by » Sun Aug 03, 2014 1:03 pm I used to drink the shit out of some turbo’s back in the day. Of course I used to drink the shit out of Kentucky Deluxe too. I’m not ashamed because I didn’t know better.

If you split it into two buckets instead of one with like 3 gallons of water in each one that helps it stay cooler in temp. As the boys said it’s just jet fuel and at the time that was new and novel me. and i drank the shit out of it and so did my friends. on ocasion. However that being said no body ever asked me to give them a jar of that swill to take to a wedding or give as a present.

you will see all these guys don’t tell you to keep it under 12% for no reason. ETOH. yes plz Master of Distillation Posts: Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:54 pm Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum by » Mon Aug 04, 2014 4:32 am bruvvamoff wrote: Is this how one reuses mash? I distill the mash till it’s dead, then tip it back into my fermenting bucket.

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I add another pack of yeast, another 6KG sugar, and top up to 25L with water and wait another week. Using more than 25% back-set can cause pH problems. Especially in a sugar wash. There isn’t enough grain in a sugar-head to buffer the pH. Recipes such as Uncle Jessie and sweet feed have grain added to the sugar wash.

Personal, I only use back-set in all grain mashes. The enzymes need an acidic environment to convert the starch into sugar and back-set is good for this. The “lees” left over spent yeast in the bottom of the fermenter can be reused by adding more water and sugar, or as an ingredient in a yeast bomb.

What is the setback of sour mash?

Michter’s Sour Mash 750ml US*1 Sour Mash Small Batch Whiskey American greatness is making a comeback. During the 1970’s and 1980’s, whiskey lovers made Michter’s Original US*1 Sour Mash Whiskey the distillery’s most popular type. In 1989 Michter’s Original US*1 Sour Mash disappeared from the marketplace – until now.

December 2012 marked the first release of Michter’s Original US*1 Sour Mash Whiskey in 23 years.
It is made according to the traditional sour mash whiskey making process whereby some previously fermented mash is used as the starter for the new mash to be fermented.
Typically in most sour mash whiskeys, this “setback” from the prior fermentation accounts for about 10 to 20 percent of the new mash to be fermented.

More than just a sour mash process whiskey, Michter’s Original US*1 Sour Mash is made from a special selection of grains, barrel aged, and later on filtered according to the exacting Michter’s standards. Production: Small Batch. Limited quantities. Bottling Strength: 86 Proof (43% Alcohol by Volume).

What is the first batch of moonshine called?

Common Moonshine Terms

ABV – “Alcohol by volume” – is the percentage of alcohol (ethanol) that is contained within a liquid. Alcometer – is a measuring device used to determine the % of alcohol also referred to as a spirit hydrometer Backins – Weak whiskey produced at the end of a double run or at the end of a run through a thumper. Bead – The bubbles that form on the surface of shaken whiskey and reflect the alcoholic content. Beading Oil – An oil dripped into low-quality whiskey by Prohibition-era moonshiners to make the alcohol bead like quality whiskey. Beer – The liquid part of fermented mash. Beer, also called “teedum,” was often made for its own sake rather than for distilling. Blackpot – A submarine still in which the mash is allowed to ferment directly in the still rather than in barrels or boxes. Boiler – Also called a “pot,” the container in which mash is initially cooked or heated. Bootleg Turn – A whiskey-hauler’s technique of turning a car around in a sudden controlled skid. Cap – The removable top of a still. Caps are named by their shapes. Carboy – is a glass or plastic vessel used in fermenting beverages, Usually it is fitted with a rubber stopper and a fermentation lock to prevent bacteria and oxygen from entering during the fermentation process. Charge – The act of filling the still or the thumper with beer or pumice. Condenser – The part of the still, typically a copper coil, in which the steam condenses into liquid alcohol. Corn – Whiskey made primarily from corn mash. Dropping the Bead – Also called “cutting” or “proofing,” the process of lowering the strength of liquor by mixing it with weaker alcohol or water. Double Run – The technique of running alcohol through a still twice. Flake Stand – The wooden water-filled box in which the condenser is cooled. Fermentation lock – Also called air lock. Is a device used in beer brewing and wine making that allows carbon dioxide released during fermentation to escape the fermenter, while not allowing air to enter the fermenter, thus avoiding oxidation. Fermenter – Container used to Ferment wash. Carboy or air tight food grade pail is often used. Foreshots – “the low boiling point compounds that come out of the still first. They contain acetone, methanol, various esters and aldehydes, and other volitiles. Foreshots are to be considered poisonous and should be discarded.” Gauger – A revenue agent in the pre-Prohibition era. Granny Fee – Bribery or payoff money paid by moonshiners to law enforcement officers. Heads – “come out after the foreshots, and are almost pure alcohol, except that they are contaminated with trace amounts of unwanted cogeners ” Liquor Car – A car modified to haul illegal alcohol to market. Malt – Barley malt for mixing in mash. Corn that is sprouted and then ground can be used in place of barley malt. Mash – Some combination of water, grain, malt, yeast, and sugar that is allowed to ferment before being distilled into alcohol. Peckin’ the Cap – A technique of rapping on the cap to tell by the hollow sound if the mash has boiled into the cap. Pot Still – A pot still is a type of still used in distilling spirits such as whisky or brandy. Heat is applied directly to the pot containing the wash (for whisky) or wine (for brandy). This is called a batch distillation (as opposed to a continuous distillation) Pot-Tail – The “slop” of fruit or grain left over after the alcohol has been distilled out of it. Also called “thumper tails.” Puke – The boiling over of a still Pumice – Crushed fermented fruit and sugar used to make brandy. Revenuer – A government agent whose job is to catch people involved in moonshining. Reflux – Reflux is a distillation technique involving the condensation of vapors and the return of this condensate to the system from which it originated. Reflux Still – Produces a flavorless spirit though the process of reflux Runner – A person who hauls moonshine. Singlings – Un-proofed whiskey that has gone through one distilling and will be distilled again. Steam Outfit – A still which uses steam rather than a direct flame to heat the mash inside the pot. Still – The combination of the cap and boiler in which the mash is initially distilled. “Still” is also used to describe the entire distilling setup. Still Hand – A person who works at a still site. Stillhouse – Historically a small permanent building constructed specifically for distilling. Stir Stick – A stick with a fork at the end used to stir mash. Wire is commonly stretched back and forth across the fork. Stuck Fermentaion – occurs when the yeast become dormant before the fermentation has completed. Unlike an “arrested fermentation” where the winemaker intentionally stops fermentation Submarine Still – A large-capacity style of still in common use since the 1920s. Shaped like a low box with two curved ends, the submarine still usually has two wooden sides. Swab Stick – A bristled wooden stick used to clean out a still. Thumper – The part between the boiler and the coil that distills mash and redistills the alcohol coming out of the boiler. Also called a “doubler,” “thumper keg,” or “thump barrel.” Turnip Still – An old style of still pot that has a round, squat shape. Worm – A coil submerged in a water-filled container. Alcohol-laden steam condenses to a liquid in the coil. Yeast Starter – A yeast starter is used to initiate cell activity or increase the cell count before using it to make your beer. The yeast will grow in this smaller volume, usually for 1-2 days, which then can be added to 5 gallons of wort.

: Common Moonshine Terms

What is a synonym for backset?

synonyms for backset –

disappointment discouragement downfall lapse meltdown relapse reversal reverse

On this page you’ll find 10 synonyms, antonyms, and words related to backset, such as: disappointment, discouragement, downfall, lapse, meltdown, and relapse.

Can backset be adjusted?

How to Change the Backset on a Door Latch January 11, 2022 2 min read Most door latches on the market today are adjustable, so that you can change the backset between 2-3/8″ and 2-3/4″. This brief article will explain how to adjust the backset on a door latch.

What is a 40mm backset?

The 40mm backset is the measurement from the edge of the door to the centre of the keyhole. Designed with ergonomic internal handle the lock offers added security against forced entry.

What is the most common backset?

In the U.S. there are two common backsets for residential door locks, 2-3/8″ and 2-3/4″. The backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the 2-1/8″ bore hole. We will pack your locks with a 2-3/8″ or 2-3/4″ latch depending on which backset you specify. Dummy sets have no latch and are surface mounted so you can install a dummy set wherever you choose on the door.

What is a 2 3 8 backset?

The backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the bore hole. There are two common backsets for residential door locks: 2-3/8″ and 2-3/4″. Not choosing the correct backset could mean the latches are too long or too short.

What size backset do I need?

Dimension A: Backset – Backset is measured from the centre of the keyhole to the edge of the lock. Most backsets are commonly measured at either 44mm (for a 64mm (2½”) lock) and 56mm (for a 76mm (3″) lock). Typically a lock adjacent to a glass panel will be 2½” (44mm) and otherwise 3″ (56mm), but you should always measure to be sure.

What does backset size mean?

The backset you choose is where your door knobs will sit on the door (where the spindle goes through).
You may want your door knobs to sit centrally to the door stile, or if you have chosen door handles you may want to offset them slightly to take the lever into consideration.
The backset measurement is also important so you can ensure that when you turn a door knob you do not hit your knuckles on the architrave.

The majority of our door knobs and handles require a heavily sprung mortice latch or lock to work correctly and return the handle back to its original position once turned. To check this, remove your current handle and operate the knob or the lever and if it returns on its own this means your current handle is sprung and your latch/lock is unlikely to be.

What does 60mm backset mean?

Measuring Your Backset The backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the centre of the door handle. Please see the image below: Please note that our locks and latches mostly come in 44-46mm and in 57-60mm.57-60mm is the standard backset.

What backset do I need?

Which Size Door Latch? 22.07.14 Posted By Handle King With numerous sizes available, determining the correct size to buy can be confusing for those who haven’t fitted door furniture before. We sell two sizes of mortice door latches in several finishes, all of which you shall find the dimensions are detailed within the descriptions along with a line drawing (diagram).

An important dimension you shall need to know before you can select the correct size door latch for your doors is the ‘backset’. The backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the centre of the door handle or knob spindle hole, or where the spindle shall pass through the door should you be fitting new doors.

In the UK there are two common backset sizes carpenters use for residential properties, these are 57mm and 45mm. While selecting the mortice latch you will also find that the overall case length is detailed, these are 76mm (3 Inch) and 63mm (2 ½ Inch).

Whilst fitting door handles and knobs the following recommendations may be of help.If fitting door handles to new doors which haven’t previously had latches fitted then the 3 Inch case (57mm backset) is usually preferred, this will position the handle slightly further away from the door frame than the 2 ½ Inch door latch, within the centre of most surrounding edging of standard size panel doors.When fitting door knobs then again the 3 Inch case (57mm backset) door latch is recommended as it positions the knob further away from the frame preventing your hand from getting caught or scraping between the frame and knob.

If you are replacing existing door latches it is important you buy the size that is currently in place to prevent filling or plunge routing. Determining the backset and overall length can be done by removing the existing latch and taking the dimensions.